"10 Steps to Performing a Roof Inspection" online video course

In the home in the photo it is my opinion that the attic is improperly ventilated. The roof covers an area almost 2000 sq ft and has a cluster of 7 passive vents at the rear 3rd of the home and a gable vent above the garage, there are continuous soffit vents, however with approximately 1/3 of the attic space not vented through the roof inadequate air movement may be an issue.

I read the articles: “Mastering Roof Inspections: Accessing the Roof, Part 1” and “Ice Dams”. I’ve never been one for heights which restricts the height of roof I will walk on, the article reminded me that nervous energy or fear is a safety issue, know your limits and don’t walk a roof you are not comfortable with, I limit myself to walking one story roofs with a 6:12 slope. Ice dams are foreign to those of us in the southern U.S. So this article is enlightening and it makes me wonder why metal roofs are not more prevalent in the snowy states if they are less susceptible to ice dams and easier to remove snow from.

Here is a pic of a slate tile roof that is over 80 years old. The tile shows some weathering at the edges but still has many years of service life left. The copper flashing of the open valley and ridge is showing a patina but is sound. This roof is almost 90 years old and is still performing adequately.

Another great course Ben. Keep em coming!


When checking furnace and water heater and the venting process, I noticed first an odor of fumes, then moisture, and then back drafting through the water heater draft diverter when turning on the furnace. Decided to check out flue and “chimney block type” chimney. Found this squirrels nest where they had packed it tight with trash and sticks. It was summer and no furnace running, in a 100 year old basement with cracks and holes visible to the outside, (creating dilution) and notified owner immediately.

Part of the course: To write an essay on 2 different articles.
Mastering Roof Inspections: Flashing Part 1
Mastering Roof Inspections: Flashing Part, 2.
Part 1: Typically either aluminum or galvanized flashing is used. If you see the 2 metals mixed in contact with each other, this should be called out. You can almost teach a monkey to lay shingles out in the wide open spaces, but when it comes to penetrations, walls, siding, valley, etc., it takes some expertise. When re-roofing over a previous layer, be sure the step flashing is incorporated into the newer top layer. When installing flashing, you need to “think like water”. If it is not shedding water, then it is wrong. If you see tarred flashing, this is a red flag to call out. Corroded galvanized flashing needs addressed as well. Maybe 2 coats of top quality paint will suffice for awhile, but this usually means the galvanized flashing was not replaced during the last cycle of roofing and it should have. Look for tiny holes in galvanized flashing. Call out a solid continuous piece of step flashing up against the whole wall.
Part 2: Be sure there is 2" clearance between exterior cladding and the shingles. Most always, I see Manufactured Stone Veneer right on top of the roof shingles. What a nightmare for the next roofer. Flashing and counterflashing is detailed how to install it, so that you do not have an issue when re-roofing. Vinyl siding only requires a half inch clearance. Do not use aluminum flashing in contact with treated lumber–buffer it with a membrane. Keep wood and cement board up off the roof 2". Since about 2000, kick out flashings are required by shingle manufacturers and exterior cladding manufacturers—where a lower roof eave butts into a side wall. It is the roofer’s responsibility to install these on new construction, but siding or roofing contractors on remodels–depending on what is getting installed–new roofing or new siding.

This photo was from a Condo that inspected last month. I recommended to the the client that they contact the home owners association to find out if this is something that they would be responsible for repairing. Even though we do not get a lot of rain here in southern Nevada it is an issue. The issue will only grow into greater issues later on if not addressed. The underlayment will degrade quickly during our very hot and dry summer months increasing the likely hood of a roof leak or moisture intrusion in the winter months.

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The seal of the neoprene pipe vent is cracked. Water can penetrate the opening and create moisture conducive conditions. Recommend that a qualified roofer make necessary repairs.

There are several ways that a homeowner can create a more efficient residence. An efficient residence will result in financial savings that will offset any expenses required to create efficiency. A good guide is the 10 easy ways to save money article posted on the InterNACHI Library. This article is a good reference tool to include in inspection reports as an added value. Thanks NACHI!

Using AFCI Testers
I read this article about AFCI testers and was able to get some good information about using this tester rather than just testing the breakers at the panel. You can test for nuisance tripping as well as testing the individual receptacle within the branch. This is a tool that I need to get for my inspections.
The other article I read was about Garage inspections and in this article ther was two factors that was helpful in doing this inspection on this garage. One was the neighbor that offered information about their home issues and there was no sheetrock on the ceiling in the garage so all the framework was exposed. The inspector was alerted to some very important issues and discovered the deficiencies. This also helps the inspector to be alert to the rest of the structure that he is inspecting.

These 2 summaries are part of the “Roofing” course.

This is a summary of Attic Ventilation Systems Pt 1

The article discussed various passive and active ventilation systems and the benefits of ventilation. It is critical to have adequate ventilation in the attic to prolong the life of your shingles and to help protect the comfort of the home. Proper ventilation will keep the moisture levels to a reasonable level which, in turn, reduces mould potential. Another option is to install a whole house fan but care must be taken not to depressurize the home and create backdrafting which could become a very serious condition.

This is a summary of Flashings Part 1

Flashings are critical to keeping an attic dry. There are various types of flashings which are used for different locations. Lead flashings are used in areas where the flashings need to conform to a certain shape. But copper and aluminum flashings are also used but aluminum is not as common. If a flashing should be used in a location but can’t be seen, the area should be disclaimed.

When inspecting a roof its important to look for flashing. The roof pictured below does not appear to have drip edge flashing. Also the roof material appeared deteriorated at time of inspection. Recommend having roofing replaced by a qualified contractor.

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I read the Master Roof Inspector Articles on ‘Hail Damage Part 1’ and ‘Wind Damage Part 1’. The hail article was very interesting because I don’t live in an area that gets much hail. What we do have the potential for is wind damage. This is why I prefer to see metal roofs. They resist wind damage very well, but your metal roof may end up looking like a golf ball if you encounter hail.

Have already completed this course but is not showing up in my transcript as done. Maybe this post will finish it up.

I read Mastering Roof Inspections: Metal Roofs, part 1 and Accessing the roof, part 1.

Metals want to be in their simplest form, so that is why metal roofs corrode. Corrosion weakens the metal, allowing the metal to turn from “rust to dust”.

Accessing and walking on a roof is dangerous. It is the most dangerous part of a home inspection. Roof material and conditions are always different. Just because it is a low pitch roof, doesn’t make safer to walk on. Be safe: if in doubt, don’t walk on it! :freaked-:

While performing a roof inspection, found a broken shingle at the ridge that left wood exposed. This is an area that water penetration will almost definately happen. Should be repaired properly.

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I read the article on narratives for a home inspector, very good in helping with what can sometimes be a little tricky to navigate. Gives great examples in a wide variety of topics.

Second was modular vs mobile homes. I knew that they were different but good to learn the technical terms to explain to a client when completing an inspection of one of these properties.

I inspected a penetration place in a roof. There is water damage to an inside wall just below this pipe. Sealant has been used around the pipe, but would recommend that a qualified contractor check for and repair as necessary any leaks. (sorry about the picture being sideways. it was correct in my file)

the photo shows a apron flashing in a chimney which is separated from asphalt shingle roof, nails have been pulled up. counter flashing rusted and sealant between the flashing and chimney deteriorated. I recommend a qualified contractor to evaluate and repair as needed.

as requirement of this course I read “Mastering Roof Inspections: Asphalt Composition Shingles, Part 1 & Part 2”.
There are two kind of asphalt shingle: fiberglass and organic (cellulose based mat). Organic shingle have not been produced since 2006. It is much easier to deform than fiberglass shingle since volatile dissipate over time.

Thanks Ben, another great online course. Attached are some photos from a recent home inspection I completed in southwest Florida.