AC circuit breaker

If I see something underfused from 35A down to 30A I don’t worry about it, if its overfused by 5A I write it up.

I agree with the way Roy looks at it.

I would just tell the real estate agent or seller they can follow “code” as they see fit.

The label says “Minimum Breaker size 35 amp”
Maximum Breaker size 35 amp. It’s right there on the label.

I probably wouldn’t have called it out, but I see the point in doing so. Like Mr Larson, and Mr Meir said, there’s simply no “wiggle room” for anything that is not a 35 amp breaker. Maybe it’s “code”, but it violates the manufacturer’s instructions as to what is required.

It’s not code because code says to follow the labeling of listed equipment. The electrician is demonstrably wrong.

That said, is there any real benefit in changing the breaker in this old unit if it has not been experiencing any starting issues?

I would report it as a defect. I wouldn’t push for repairing it.

Defect or Issue?

I report defects and deficiencies. The defect may or may not be causing an issue.

Then what would you say about this one…
It is over protected that we know.

WTF are you prattling about? Would you care to throw in an actual sentence, perhaps?

I agree with Mr. Evans, however I would have not called that out, as this is underfused.

30A is going to trip and prevent burning up the motor that is rated for 35A.

But, according to the HACR Maxiumim fuse is 35A, So as long as it is not over this rating you are ok. If the unit would fault, the 30A would trip.

What was the disconnect breaker rated for?

Most likely a pullout.

Probably, most of ours in this area are fused breakers.

Yep. That is what I see on the label, too.

That’s correct Mr. Meier, for this example, as it pertains to this thread. An underfused circuit should not be “called out” in text documentation recorded in whichever format is the basis of my earlier reply.

In my opinion, if its (umderfused) and working for this example, for what we can ASSume for 16 years, why bother?

Don’t twist my words towards your agenda.

I think Chuck already stated defect and what issues.

Agenda, really?

I merely answered the OP question based on the code which was the point of this thread in the first place. I provided the information as to whether or not the OP’s report was correct based on the code. I do not tell HI’s what to report, I’ll leave that up to them based on their SOP or whatever other guidelines they follow.

You’re entitled to your opinion as to how this code violation should or should not be reported. You stated that you wouldn’t, I was just asking why.

I got a good chuckle over the word agenda.

Seems to be a thin line between “code” and calling out safety recommendations/deferring to licensed professionals

home inspectors don’t work for a local government, are not trade specific professional’s, and the client is the one that ultimately makes a decision based on their own understanding and experience on the report the private hire home inspector finds in 4 hours. Tough job.

Your wording is a bit obtuse and mildly offensive. If you have a comment to make about the profession, come on out with it.

Come out with what? I’m not sure we are on the same page. I simply described the description of a private home inspector, was I not correct? It was not meant to be offensive.

If it offends you, don’t read it, or better yet - block me.

I will admit my “4 hour” comment was probably not accurate for all cases, some may be longer (or shorter).

Yes it is a thin line using words like, was, were, appears, modern standards or should be, just to name a few because you have to dance around B.S. and can’t quote code. Then the contractor trows you under the bus because you didn’t find everything because you can’t tear into a component (its a visual only remember). Then you have the realtor bad mouthing you because your a deal breaker because you know how to find problems. Of course then we all charge way too much and we should feel privileged and not charge for getting to inspect the precious home that the owner took upon himself to destroy. And we need to do it in more like 1.5 to 2hrs with the report done on site. :roll::roll:

You’re correct, and one can feel bad for HI’s like Michael who make the correct call and still have to hear crap like this from a realtor.

As I said earlier the homeowner deserves a refund from the HVAC tech who was wrong in the first place.

HVAC tech is wrong and you must always go by the manufactures specs.