That looks like an installation problem to me and not a warranty problem. Call the better business bureau, the local consumer compliant section in the newspaper/tv news and anyone else that will listen.
Update. The builder continues to defer responsibility. I sent them pics and asked if what was in the pics is considered a proper job or if it needs attention. Their answer was this:
*
“As per your request if furnace photos look normal, as you are past your warranty time period thru builder, contact supplier directly to inquire about extended warranty and or manufacturer’s defect, and or another plumber; charges may apply.”*
The installer said they were coming out to look at the furnace twice. They missed both appointments.
Thanks. BBB has been contacted and a complaint filed. I will contact the local paper.
Thanks guys.
After 2 missed appointments to come look at the furnace and a heated conversation this morning with the installer they finally had someone come out. They tell me they fixed the hose leaking problem but didn’t replace the circuit board. The repair guy (and in his defense he is under the direction of the owner) said "it is working now, if it was going to fail it would have already so I would’t worry about it too much".
WOW - does that sound familiar!!!
TE
I would still insist on a replacement board if it was under warranty. Water and electronics don’t mix. it will corrode and fail Just my thought.
Yes. Still going after the circuit board. BBB has contacted the builder and we are waiting for a reply.
Thanks
TE
After some very lengthy discussions with the builder, the installer, the BBB and NHWP - the builder has agreed to replace the circuit board.
Of interest Ruud also contacted me and they were willing to help get this fixed. That impressed me - and not much has been impressing me lately.
Thanks for all the advice and hopefully we will have an inspector from here doing a complete home inspection this spring.
Thanks again - this thread is dead
TE
Good stuff Trent
Squeaky wheel gets the oil
Excellent Trent. :mrgreen::mrgreen::mrgreen:
the hose was cut short when they first had the drain trap on the left side of the furnace. with the filter on the left side the trap/drain had to go to the right side of the furnace. rookie mistake. The ONLY way to correct this is to order new hoses from RUUD along with the new control board.
Thanks Charles. I couldn’t figure out why anyone would run hoses over a circuit board (more specifically why they would join hoses above a circuit board).
They are coming today to replace the board. Ironically the furnace quit the night before last and the house was about 12C when I woke up in the morning (again extremely cold weather). Weird because the leaking hoses have been fixed and there was no water leaking when it quit. Hopefully the circuit board is pooched and the new one will get rid of this problem for good.
Thanks
TE
-32 celcius last night and at 2AM I was trying to get the furnace running … again.
TE
You must be in Canada
My guess no new Board yet
Trent
Have you check your stack? Why i am asking it may be freezing at the top
It may be time to call the lawyer. Their negligence is putting your family in danger and damn sure an inconvenience, (pain and suffering, bad faith; all words lawyers live for). Find one that is mean and hungry. I probably would have run out of patience long ago on this as there is no excuse for this kind of crap. It was installed wrong from the beginning, they know it, you know it and anyone with one eye and half a mind knows it just from looking at it. good luck.
Thanks again all. The new board has been installed, the leaking hoses have been repaired and I have checked the pipes outside everytime it quit. Still it persists.
We are seeing a lot of dampness on the floor under the furnace. It isn’t soaking wet, just damp. I think the condensation collector (the little cup that the condensate hoses go into) is dripping water all over the floor. The board is dry though.
The other thing I have noticed is that all of our neighbors pipes out the side of the house have a lot of ice build up on them. They aren’t plugged but they have ice hanging off the pipe and we have absolutely nothing for ice. I don’t know what, if anything, that means.
Basically what is happening is this:
- 2 green LED’s (these are the power and system ok led’s)
- the yellow LED does not come on at all (this is the ignition led)
- the positive air flow thingy kicks in and a few seconds later the ignition begins sparking but no flame.
- this goes on for several seconds then it either quits or the main fan turns on and it just blows cold air.
When I got it going I was tapping the gas valve and also using a hair dryer to warm the valve and control board. I doubt this is what got it going but none the less it started after about 30 minutes. My basement doesnt get that cold (relatively speaking) - mind you that fresh air pipe is right next to the furnace.
Rheemac gave me a contact to one of their certified dealers and told me to get them to come and look at it.
I will continue to post updates.
TE
Just curious, what kind of thermostat do you have? I went through a couple of those expensive digital programmable thermostats on a new gas furnace (Payne/Carrier) and we were having all kinds of problems with it not working properly. Especially when my wife diddled with the thermostat. I finally got tired of it, went and got the simplest thermostat on the market…end of problems. It wasn’t just her because I would have intermittent problems with it not working as well.
I was thinking that too but the furnace is trying to start - the ignition system (little sparker doo hicky) is sparking and trying to ignite the gas but there doesn’t seem to be any gas.
TE
Mine would too. Come on, run for a short spell, then shut off before the igniter blade would get hot enough. That and other things that would happen in both cool or heat mode. The thermostat was a White-Rogers brand (first one) then a Honeywell that worked for a few months then it went tu as well. The one I have now I got at HD for less than $20 and it has worked fine for about 8 months. BTW, the little sparker doo hicky is the technical name for that thingy.
Joe F.
I don’t know about you but i can do three full home inspections in a day and do a very through job. Taking about 3 hours for each inspection and 30 min for drive time. And really don’t think you should give a consumer advice that is bad. Just because a inspector does three a day does not mean he/she is a bad inspector. If they don’t do a through job than they are a bad inspector. Even if they only do one inspection a week.
In this area if a inspector charges 100.00 for a Re-inspection their not doing any. I have been behind contractors that were grandfathered in for the state licensing for home inspectors and there are some of the worst home inspectors that i have ever seen. And using canned statements are ok as long as they pertain to the situition of the defect ie: Reversed polarity is the same on every structure i have inspected just the location of where the outlet is at. And i would check the standards of pratice instead of physical limitations. If their Standards of pratice state that they will go into the attic and crawlspace then they better or have a good reason why like safety issues or a lawsuit would be in order.
I know you are trying too help the consumer. But please be careful and don’t state negitive reasons that are just not true. And one last note I own my own business but i used to work for a franchise and i was a better inspector than the owner so again it depends upon the inspector not the company. You can interview your inspector if they will give you the time just call them and ask. I would.
LOL.
I will give the thermostat a shot. Always check the simple things first - funny how sometimes they turn out to be the culprit.
TE