After hearing all the horror stories about inspectors getting blamed for garage door damage during routine inspections, I always make an effort to completely visually check (& photo) all moving parts of a garage door before I use the automatic opener.
In today’s case, the homeowner had placed a pad lock on the door track to prevent it from opening…could have been a real disaster if I would have just walked in and pushed the button : )
Yep . I check for that all the time. I also check around the track for vise grips and bolts.
Something else to watch for. found those little items also ( one the the hard way) A bolt half up used to secure the door.
I often find that an overly helpful, participating client can often get me into trouble. They feel like helping by turning on things, pushing buttons, and engaging the garage door opener (when it’s pad-locked). It sometimes gets a little uncomfortable. I never did develop a good way of explaining to my client - Please, Don’t touch!
I always check the door, tracks and opener completely prior to testing. I also test the reverse with my hand, standing with my back to the door. I don’t use the block method as I have seen doors not reverse properly and actually crack in the process. I would prefer to not have to pay for someone’s garage door these days.
Seems we have a few that don’t realize there are 4 safety features that work totally seperate.
entrapment safety - checked with a 2x4 or item around 1.5 inches thick. Has zero to do with the amount of force the door will stop and reverse at.
Down force - checked with something thicker than 1.5 inches to ensure the opener firmware is not running in the entrapment range. The door should stop and reverse around 10-15 lbs.
Up force - also adjustable seperate from down force, not much need to check this but can be done.
Safety beam sensors - need to be mounted the correct height range above floor, if one is bad the door will not work or will only move a few inches and stop. Can be overridden by holding in the wall switch.