Best way to protect a dedicated exterior circuit

What is the the best way to protect this motor for the septic? It is not GFCI.

It is a dedicated circuit (which it should be) but should it also be GFCI protected?

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All outdoor recepticales must be GFCI protected .

If that is a plug , it can be pulled and looks accessible, so there should be no exception.

I understand that but how should it be GFCI procted? If this motor trips out then the toilets will back up and there will be a big mess.

So should the gfci breaker be installed in the main panel. I know if an outlet type gfci is installed at the box then it will trip out all the time.

Again what is the best way?

Frank, if that is a dedicated circuit, then it doesn’t have to be GFCI, however, if it were GFCI it still should have an audible alarm tied to a float switch to denote the fact that it is failing to start.



A weather proof cover would be a good start as well (the plastic bubble type), and doesn’t look “dedicated” to me - it looks like a duplex. Also, the conduit (hopefully type UF) should be protected where it exits the ground.

It doesn’t matter where the GFCI protection is located unless the concern is walking through the “sludge” to reset it at the receptacle, but Gerry’s point was best, there should be an audible alarm to warn when/if power is cut.

Thanks guys. I should have done a better job on this one. I will go back to the property in the morning and re-inspect it. Its a new home, vacant and the garage is open so I can check it out better.

I knew it should not be GFCI protected and I do think it is a dedicated circuit, I agree about the plastic bubble, the unprotected conduit and the alarm. If it is not a dedicated circuit I will recommend a GFCI. However It should be a dedicated circuit because a pump is used.

That receptacle is also currently required to have a “weatherproof while in use” cover, also known as a “bubble cover” for slang.

Mark , in this situation ,wouldn’t you normally find it hardwired, much like an condenser unit .

Never see them on a pullable plug.

Could be either way. Those air sparger pumps are normally cord and plug connected, in my observation. The come that way, right out of the box. Cutting off a factory cord cap to hardwire it would actually enhance the nature of the violation, ie- make things worse.

Thanks,I never see them in my neck of the woods.

They’re a more obscure system. I’m not sure what brand that sparger pump is, but it looks like maybe a Medo. They almost never even need a dedicated circuit, since most of them draw barely over 2 amps. I put in a pretty big Gast pump for an apartment building’s air injection pump, and it was only 4.7 amps. No need to dedicate a circuit for any sparger pump I’ve ever seen.

In fact, if you see a sparger pump in a resi system, an inspector might have to doubt if they weren’t having problems with the septic, or if they’re trying to be cutting-edge and avoid problems. It’s only one of the two reasons… a system on its last leg, or a high-class system.

Yeah not much, unless initial draw is high.

2 amps is something like a couple incandescent bulbs or 200 watts.

I covered that in my report, thanks.