Calculating Envelope Energy Loss Course

The attached picture shows fiberglass batt insulation installed in an attic. The fiberglass side of the batt is open to the attic space, which could result in windwashing. The problem may be exacerbated by the cross ventilation induced by the roof vents.

I also read the article on Energy Efficient Mortgates. I was unaware that specific mortgages were available for these kinds of improvements. This could be a great marketing opportunity for energy-conscious homebuyers.

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hello everybody, my first time on the message board as i need some Washington state credits, anyway, one way i casually measure insulation depth is stick my 13" flashlight in it and take a picture, just thought I’d share that little tid bit… yes i know we’re not required to measure but it just gives me a rough idea so i can verbally say, yes you have about xx "…

and the other pic is a lot of older homes here in n Idaho have only perimeter wall insul only, no under floor stuff, sorry, couldn’t figure out how to rotate it 90 degrees…

That’s a great idea … using the flashlight. First time I’ve heard of that tip.

Hello All,

Here is a photo of insulated attic

Found:(Compressed) Insulation compressed, we recommend the insulation be “fluffed” or replaced as necessary to offer best efficiency. Some walked in the attic.
(Additional Insulation) Recommend additional insulation be installed, to bring it up to current industry standards.

Insulation form for new construction inspection.

As part of a pre-licensing filed inspection, my house was evaluated if full. Problems noted concerning air movement and heat loss were inadequate insulation in area of the attic along with a few soffit vents that were partially blocked.

According to the EnergyStar™ Program, heating and cooling costs can be slashed by up to 20% per year by properly sealing and insulating the home. Insulating the attic should be a top priority for preventing heat loss because as heat rises, a critical amount of heat loss from the living areas of the home occurs through an unfinished attic. During the summer months, heat trapped in the attic can reduce a home’s ability to keep cool, forcing occupants to further tax the home’s cooling system.

The aim should be to insulate the living space of the house while allowing the roof to remain the same temperature as the outside. This prevents cold outside air from traveling through the attic and into the living area of the home. In order to accomplish this, an adequate venting system must be in place to vent the roof by allowing air flow to enter through soffit-intake vents and out through ridge vents, gable vents or louver vents.

As you can see in the attached photo, the seal around this door is not functioning appropriately. Due to this, cooled or heated air from the HVAC system is leaking through the envelope. This will cause a rise in the energy consumption.

Hi everyone:
I have a couple of pictures of attic insulation in a brand new residence.
One picture shows the attic card indicating the depth of the insulation. The other picture shows the information sheet left by the insulation contractor.
thanks,
Nat

Hi everyone:
Adding attic insulation is such a simple and effective way of reducing the energy loss in homes. Educating a homeowner on energy efficiency as well as actually getting the improvements done are equally important. The types of insulation, the thickness of it, combined with air sealing can be very effective in correcting that area of the home. Many owners simply don’t know much about it yet are eager to understand how it can translate into energy savings.
thanks,
Nat

Hi all,
I recently upgraded all of the light bulbs in my house to LED. I would highly encourage everyone to do so. They definitely save on energy, and do not produce any heat. The best thing is the prices have come down considerably.

I found 40 to 60 watt bulbs in the $4-5 range. The higher wattages still are pricey but those prices will drop in the near future I predict.

Just finished course. These picture are of a living room window that was in stalled when built. With windows fully closed and cranks locked, you can feel the air coming through the windows.

Attached is an image of tongue and groove pine boards on a ceiling.
You might think they could make a decent seal with T&G, but after shrinkage and some warping, the gaps are clear and pronounced!

For the visual Calculating Envelope Energy Loss inspection, I found:Exterior doors leaking air - weatherstripping repair/replace recommended
Two windows with moisture intrusion/broken air seal - recommend replacementDryer vent flap working well, very minimal lint buildup
Bath fan flap working well
Kitchen exhaust flap stuck open - pronounced air infiltration at this location - repair or replace

The article I chose for this course was Elements of an Energy Efficient House.
Similar to the topics Joe Lstiburek discussed, this covers the key components around air and moisture sealing to maximize energy efficiency without creating a home that will rot from poor building techniques (reverse flashing, incorrect air barrier placement, poor barrier sealing), dependent on the local climate.

This is rigid foam insulation with aluminum facing on a concrete basement wall. Due to safety considerations, the foam was kept away from the electrical panel. There is less energy savings to maintain this safe distance.

This thru the wall swamp cooler vent works great in the summer but it is really difficult to seal up in the winter and is always a cold, drafty spot in the house.

I inspected my home for this course. Our building envelope has a great air barrier, in that we have 1 1/2" closed cell foam with metal siding over that. 20 years ago when we installed the foam, however, there wasn’t the emphasis on taping all the seams, so it isn’t as good as it could be now. I found almost no unsealed holes.

I read the article on R-values in insulation. I am an ex-contactor, and I was constantly battling with my employees to cut out the square for electrical boxes rather than just shove the insulation on top of it or, worse, to the side. You do not get the same R-value and/or affect your vapor barrier when you just kind of shove it around the side and there are large gaps where air/moisture can just slide on thru.