Orange piping is usually reserved for fire suppression systems. If the label on the piping is NIBCO, they are a manufacture of fire sprinkler system piping
Usually the water service would be black.
Very strange
Well the valve you had shown does not have a back flow with it
Some come with one , Some even have a pressure relief valve. I would say a thermal tank will be in order . The arrow shows the direction of flow some what like valves . Ever seen a valve put in back wards It will reduce flow a fair bit.
It’s PEX isn’t it? Is there anything wrong with using it for residential potable water?
Here’s something you may wish to use. No charge. Modify to suit your needs.
“The water heater does not have an approved device for thermal control installed (an expansion tank or pressure relief valve). The device’s purpose is to prevent spikes in water pressure due to water heating that could damage the internal components of a water heater, cause a leak at the temperature-pressure relief valve, or cause a leak at plumbing fittings elsewhere in the home. Recent changes in today’s commonly accepted standards require such a device when a new water heater is installed, but there is no standard that requires an upgrade to an existing unit. Regardless, installation of a thermal expansion control device is recommended to prevent the types of damage described above. A reference document about expansion tanks is attached at the end of this report for your information.”
Here’s an attachment I include with my reports when I cite this: http://www.aohomeinspection.com/pdf/Thermal-expansion-control.pdf
good call on the orange line. i believe it is fire suppression
Ok, now I’m not sure. I vaguely remember fire suppression piping using glued joints.
Anyone else got any ideas? Obviously a fire suppression system (if the house had one) would need to be regulated just as the potable system.
Thats Red Nibco Durapex, lots of used in homes around here, actually the best PEX on the market IMO.
http://www.nibco.com/assets/PEX%20Spools%20NPI.pdf
Look at all of Joe’s picture, you can see how it looks redder in some areas, it is kinda orange but the flash on most cameras really makes it look bright orange.
I know this is an older 2009 thread, but this InterNACHI thread came up in my Google searches, and the issue raised is an important one that I feel inspectors need to better understand.
In an effort to clear up the confusion shared in the thread above, the typical Watts residential pressure regulator is NOT a backflow prevention device that turns an older home’s open system into a closed system. When you read the specs of the popular Watts Series LFX65B Water Pressure Reducing Valve it clearly states, “Provision shall be made to permit the bypass flow of water back through the valve into the main when pressures, due to thermal expansion on the outlet side of the valve, exceed the pressure in the main supply.” This means that when the house side water pressure exceeds the street pressure that the pressure regulator is designed to bleed pressure back towards the street’s water main… **Pressure regulators are NOT backflow prevention devices. **
Talk with your local water departments to see how they are handling the closing of older home plumbing systems. Some are taking care of it at the street, some at the meter, and some are doing nothing at all for existing homes until a new water main is installed. It varies from water department to water department. When an older home’s open system becomes a closed system with no thermal expansion device installed, then the water heating cycling strains the water heater’s TPR valve to bleed off the pressure with each cycle. This extra use of the TPR can cause failure creating the first step needed for explosions. Now all you need is for the thermostat or overheating sensors to fail and the electric elements or gas flame will cause the house to go boom and me to have to document yet another catastrophic news story for www.WaterheaterExplosions.com. Let’s all strive to put a stop to the needless water heater explosions.
Hope this helps!
Michael Leavitt - Orem, Utah
www.WaterheaterExplosions.com
Thanks Michael,
I did some more research into this back in 09 but put it in this other thread:
We have a subdivision that has excessive water pressure so we require a pressure reducing valve. Now this doesn’t make a closed system but since the pressure is higher on the incoming side than the outgoing we require an expansion tank.
Our thought on this is even though the PRV will allow water to backflow into the city system when the water expands it will not because the pressure is higher on the city side. The water has to expand somewhere so…expansion tank.
The reason I post this is because this type of system is not a closed system but in my opinion the circumstances create a situation where a expansion tank is needed.
Thanks a lot.
Amalia Markous
Caution… This is a SPAMMER!!!
Posted their link in another thread. It is a Plumbing Company!!!
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Caution… This is a SPAMMER!!!
Posted their link in another thread. It is a Plumbing Company!!!
They are visiting this site with questions ranging fron newby stuff to almost expert opinions. Don’t fall prey to their games!!!