Originally Posted By: bkelly1 This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
There are 2 wires under one breaker terminal. Electrician should change this by adding breakers and only putting one wire under them. There are some breakers tha can hold 2 wires, depending on what type breaker.
The upgrade part sounds as if the panel is old, in poor condition, no more spaces,Or a fuse box. Unable to comment without pictures.
-- "Do, or do not. There is no 'try'." -Yoda (The empire Strikes Back)
Originally Posted By: dspencer This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
No two wires are under any breaker. NO EXCEPTIONS.
The electricians here would:
Add another breaker (best option) or if not possible add a junction box to the circuit, connect with an existing circuit with junction and run to panel.(No junctions allowed in panel box)
or
Perform service upgrade
or
add subpanel box.
Give us a call and we will answer any of your questions. We also service the Dayton area. 1.866.OHIO.088
Originally Posted By: bkelly1 This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
dspencer wrote:
No two wires are under any breaker. NO EXCEPTIONS.
The electricians here would:
Add another breaker (best option) or if not possible add a junction box to the circuit, connect with an existing circuit with junction and run to panel.(No junctions allowed in panel box)
or
Perform service upgrade
or
add subpanel box.
Give us a call and we will answer any of your questions. We also service the Dayton area. 1.866.OHIO.088
You seem quite sure about that. 
-- "Do, or do not. There is no 'try'." -Yoda (The empire Strikes Back)
Originally Posted By: dspencer This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
110% sure. Some Square D may be rated by Manufacture for two wire BUT here it would fail State inspection. My reports info are based on local code. I would not want to inform Owner it is ok when the code enforcer would fail it…especially in new construction inspections. With Earl being from Dayton I assume the home is also…
Originally Posted By: jsieg This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Am I mistaken or is that an example of a GE (or compatible) Breaker that is designed for double tapping…
That's the only types that I have seen that are designed for double tap. Does anyone know of any other brands that are designed for double tap. (please show photos if possible).
Originally Posted By: Earl Stark This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Darren,
The panel uses breakers already. I think my best be would be your second suggestion.
"add a junction box to the circuit, connect with an existing circuit with junction and run to panel."
I have a friend who is a licensed electrician. If he performs the work, does it then have to be inspected before passing the home to the new owners? I'm not sure is this is more of a real estate question or not.
As a side note, if I do need to verify the work, can you contact me with your rates?
Originally Posted By: pabernathy This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Earl,
Ok....Firstly the idea of an " outside " junction to fix this issue is not really the solution. The electrician more than none will simply splice it with the other wire going to the breaker under a wirenut and then take (1) to the breaker itself.
In some panels the option may also be tandam breakers...but gets iffy on some panels so the splice option is used most of the time.
Now in regards to the breakers......the NEC is specific on its standard to accept the Manufacturers listing for the product OVER the NEC listing for the product but again subject to local AHJ rulings.
It is important to note you are not going to expand on the capacity of that panel by simply splicing.....this would be a remedy to only fix the double tapping issue itself.
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Originally Posted By: bkelly1 This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
dspencer wrote:
110% sure. Some Square D may be rated by Manufacture for two wire BUT here it would fail State inspection. My reports info are based on local code. I would not want to inform Owner it is ok when the code enforcer would fail it...especially in new construction inspections. With Earl being from Dayton I assume the home is also....
Now your area may allow this, do they?
They do. Are you doing "code inspections" ?
That should keep us busy for a while. 
-- "Do, or do not. There is no 'try'." -Yoda (The empire Strikes Back)
Originally Posted By: Earl Stark This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
You all discuss code, I’m going to post some pictures of the box and the j-boxes. On the right bank of fuses, there are (2) 240v breakers and (2) 120v breakers. Both the 240v and the 120v breakers were double tapped. Each wire was run to a j-box and the connecting wire was run to the panel. Please take a look at the pictures. Thanks!!
Originally Posted By: Earl Stark This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Sorry, I must not have been clear enough with my last post. That is a picture of the box after the double taps have been removed. I wanted to see if the box looked okay as it stands now. The second picture is of the wires running to the j-boxes that were added and the previously double tapped wires were joined to the new wire going to each breaker. The orange wires for the 240v and the yellow for the 120v. Does everything look up to snuff. There was nothing added to each circuit, the junctions were moved outside the panel.
Originally Posted By: jsieg This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
First, you guys are killing me with these photos. Hi-res photos are nice but I’m on dial-up. Do you have any idea how long it takes to download these photos?
Breaker box: 1- I don't see any bonding of the panel. 2- crimping a ground wire to a neutral not good. 3- neutrals & grounds should not be on the same bus bar, if a separate ground bus bar was installed there would not be that questionable splice of the main ground. 4- the white wires used as second leg on the 220 circuits should be labeled with black tape.
Ceiling mess: 1- Where are the wire staples? 2- I see un-sheath wiring. 3- wires are not supposed to run under the joists, they should run through the joist, in the center 1/3 of the joist.
   The main breaker is too large for the service   
My instructor taught me in HI classes that a round meter box is a 60 amp service or less. A square meter box is 100 amps or less. A rectangle meter box is 150 amp or greater. If this information is not correct please someone say something.
This looks like a bad homeowner replacement of an old fuse panel.
Originally Posted By: fbartlo This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
I’m not about to write up a properly configured splice in a panel that is not too crowded, nor 2 wires of appropriate gauge connected to a breaker (such as the pictured SquareD) designed as such.
Let's get real. Those situations are not unsafe, in absence of other problems.
Originally Posted By: Jay Moge This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Earl Stark wrote:
Below is a comment from the home inspection that came through the house I am selling. Can someone clarify the verbiage as to what is the problem?
"Service Panel is due to be reconfigured or upgraded due to double jumped breakers"
Is this a code violation? I can provide more information if needed. Thanks in advance!
also, keep in mind that anything your inspector says or writes boils down to a "profesional opinion" and not an order. also, he/she isn't a code enforsment agent and usualy will not quote codes or attempt to enforce them. what we see and report may or may not coincide with code, but more than likely it's a suggestion of an issue that has been "writen in blood". by that i mean that some where in time that issue caused major problems, or may in the future. if you call him/her and ask i'm sure he/she'd be happy to explain. if not, maybe you called the wrong inspector. 
