Sean - your disgusting!!!
I didn’t need to see that before I finished my first cup of coffee!!! :shock:
We need some “early warning system” for crap like that! 
Well, at least it was before breakfast! … 
Actually, tying the joists to the deck beam has no effect on the “tilt”. If the joists had been properly blocked, the joists would not be tilting.
Blocking between the joists can be retroactively performed at this time. In fact, the lack of tying the joists to the beam enables blocking to be more easily added at this time. IIRC, there’s a tool on Amazon used for grasping joists and providing leverage to straighten.
With 2-3 guys and 2 joist straightening tools (I forget what the official name is), you could in an afternoon add 2x8 blocking and fastening with galvanized nails.
After adding the blocking, might as well add hurricane ties and gavanized nails while your still dirty from laying on your back and have your air compressor and palm nailer out.
P.S. Use a palm nailer (not framing nail gun) when securing the blocking and ties – that way you are sure even in tight spaces that your nails are going in straight and not ****-eyed because there is too little clearance between the joists for the nail gun.
Home Inspectors dont specify how to repair something, they just identify there is a problem that needs to be fixed …
I offer Fact,Opinion,Guidance and often repairs needed are obvious.
The above should read “not required”
Example ; “Area is open” in which case I would report to replace the caulking.
(FACT) Opening observed
(Opinion) Will leak if not corrected
(Guidance) Caulk the opening
Sometimes there is a fine line between providing a recommendation or guidance (the opening should be sealed) and specifying how to perform a repair (clean the area and apply a silicone based sealant) …
Another example … the deck header should be lag bolted or thru bolted to the ledger for better strength and stability (recommendation) … vs … install 5/8" dia lag bolys 32" oc with 2" min edge distance, and predrill all lag bolt holes (specification)
LOL…I treat them like adults and actually it depends on the client as they all have different needs.
Works for me ,but your experience may be different.
In middle of report where I just finished writing up the poor stringer /handrail post connection followed up with I recommend a carpenter make repairs.
Bottom end of stringer was to thin .Earth to wood contact at front stairs promotes rot (no footer) was actual comment also.
I agree Bob, a little guidance can hurt no one and is usually accepted well with the client.
I know how to do the work, but no way will I go on and explain how I would do it. I recommend a carpenter (qualified of course) to do the job. Might not mean it gets done right, but that is how it should be written.
Many of times, I have told a client what should be done, but never explain how it should be done. Big difference. 
Right Marcel and I agree, though telling them Recommend a Licensed and certified Plumber inspect and make any repairs needed to unscrew an aerator screen on a faucet may be going overboard.
True, but unfortunately, some would cross thread the darn thing and use a pair of vise-grips to put it on. :mrgreen:
I try to keep a consistent level of detail in reporting and providing recommendations concerning defects, even though I could go beyond that in some areas related to home construction.
I don’t treat them like children, but I do try and word it in terms that the client can typically understand, but will also convey the problem and what needs to be done or evaluated by a specialist in a professional manner …
Do you talk that way also Robert…Just kidding.
Isn’t that the truth.
I am always surprised by how many get shocked that I can unscrew the thing with my fingers.
I don’t really see much of a problem with it. That strap is not carrying much of a vertical load, if any. The post 3’ away is carrying the load, so there’s just a little cantilever to the wall. Each joist should be toenailed to the girder so as long as the joists are securely attached to the wall at the other end, it’s bolted and lagged to the rim at the left. How’s it going to fail?
No … but I’ll try to keep it a little easier to understand just for you Bob … also kidding …
Can’t say I have ever seen a wood deck around S FL with all our houses pretty much s.o.g.
That’s one less thing to have to deal with, just like basements, boilers, oil and gas fueled appliances, etc.
Just wondering, do you guys in deck country charge extra for decks, and how do your price 'em?
That would definitely be an extra here, like a dock or seawall.
Most decks are attached to the house. So for me the answer is “no” on charging an additional fee. Do you charge more for an attached garage?
No extra charge. They don’t take very long. More or less:
- Posts- bearing/ decay/ attachment at top and bottom/ diagonal bracing at the deck structure (often inadequate).
- General structure- framing condition and design/ hardware/ fasteners/ clearance from grade.
- Attachment to home- flashing/ hardware/ fasteners/ support methods.
- Stairs (typical concerns)
- Guardrails- support post attachment (often loose on older homes)/ height/ (code issues)- baluster spacing/ non-climbable design.
- Planking- general condition/ fasteners
- Finish coating (water should bead when it’s sprayed)
Lots and lots of decks here. You get used to taking all this in pretty quickly unless you see something really unusual and have to spend extra time, but it’s like that with all the home systems. That’s why in Colorado, in addition to our regular fee, we demand 10% of the cost of any repairs from any defect we catch… (only kidding).