Originally Posted By: kmcmahon This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Jeff Pope,
I looked at the first pic you posted a few times, and maybe I’m just missing it because I’m not familiar with those type of breakers, but where’s the double-tap exactly?
Originally Posted By: rmoore This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Mike…
Once again...IMO...the diagram only shows the wire sizes that can be used when one or two conductors are used. I'll repeat that they had to picture it one side or the other (I'd say a 50/50 chance that it is pctured on the left.
"Right turn for tightening forces the wire to the screw shank less chance of slippage."
"I am fully aware that a regular screw connection, such as the side terminal of a receptacle, needs to be wound clockwise to keep the loop from unraveleling when tightened. But that isn't what we have here. This is a direct pressure plate onto the conductor, it is not wrapping around, or even touching the screw, and it seems obvious from the close-up (at least to me) that either side will function fine.
Now, if you have something from Square-D that says that the left side must be used fine...post it with a reference and I'll eat my words. I took the time to look and could find nothing. Until then I'd appreciate it if you would keep the "Duhs" to yourself.
-- Richard Moore
Rest Assured Inspection Services
Seattle, WA
www.rainspect.com
Originally Posted By: roconnor This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
I am with Rich and Paul that it doesn’t matter which side of a SD-D BCW breaker a single wire is on. I see nothing in the listing or instructions that would require that. A bit much for an HI to be commenting on too, as I also don’t see any possible hazard or resulting defect.
– Robert O’Connor, PE
Eagle Engineering ?
Eagle Eye Inspections ?
NACHI Education Committee
I am absolutely amazed sometimes by how much thought goes into doing things wrong
Originally Posted By: Guest This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
It’s a crush connection w/ no rotational forces on either side w/ no advantage to installing on either side. It’s NOT going under a screw head. That’d be different. The illustration showing left side would be applicable for all screw head breakers that label gets put on, and does no harm showing left side for the style in question. Like Richard said ;It doesn’t matter.
Originally Posted By: jgriffith This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Mike,
Show me the picture are you guys talking about. I understand what over-current is and think that I may have been looking at something else in the picture… Let me know
Originally Posted By: dbozek This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Anytime there is a double tapped breaker there is a chance for overloading. Differences in wire sizes on the double tapped breaker can also cause arcing at the terminal and potential hot spots. I have been guilty of double tapping a breaker at times, but only as a temporary fix or in an emergency situation. The tap would only remain long enough for me to return with another breaker or an entire panel. The same holds true for double lugging of neutrals.
Think about it.....circuit #1 is running a light, a stereo and perhaps a toaster. Here comes the double tap circuit......#2, that is running a space heater. Could a 20 amp breaker double tapped with these two cicuits be overloaded at any given time? You betcha! Mr. Homeowner might say.....Hey no problem, I just go down there and reset it! Well what happens if the breaker had tripped so many times that it just doesn't trip anymore? 
Originally Posted By: jpeck This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
dbozek wrote:
Anytime there is a double tapped breaker there is a chance for overloading.
Not anymore than anytime there is a single conductor to a breaker that there is a chance of overloading.
One problem I see recurring in several posts is the need to define something as a "major" problem or defect. Versus what? An intermediate problem? A minor problem? Major in what way? Expense to repair? A double tapped breaker is a no-brainer to correct and is very inexpensive correct. A structural foundation problem is a "major" problem.
It's a defect guys, write it up for that reason. But it is not "major" - it's cheap and easy to correct. Maybe use the term "important to correct" problem or defect.
The Sq D breakers are designed to hold one or two conductors. The terminal plate has two locations for the conductors, and the single conductor can be on either side. The drawing on the breaker is for illustrative purposes only - 1 or 2 conductors.
I'm off the soap box now, here, you get on it. 
Originally Posted By: kluce This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Here is the standards the realtors go by and give to us to go by.
"MAJOR DEFECT" is a condition that would: (a) have a significant, adverse effect of the value of the Property; (b) significantly impair the health or safety of future occupants of the Property; or (c) significantly shorten or adversely affect the expended normal life of the property if not repaired, removed, or replaced.
"MAJOR DEFECTS" are those that could reasonably interfere with Purchaser's intended use or habitability of the Property and are not to be confused with cosmetic deficiencies or minor maintenance items noted in an inspection report.
Of course, a lot of items clearly fall under A, B or C category. Other items are more in the gray area.
Originally Posted By: rray This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
I’m with you on that one, Chad.
I get my standards from my trade associations, my franchisor, my E&O provider, my attorneys, and my own research, but I haven't gotten any of my standards from any Realtor anywhere.
Originally Posted By: jgriffith This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
I see it, I note it, I am not qualified to go aginst the manufactures advice. If they say one or two wires per breaker…so be it…If they say not to install other manufactures breakers in there panel…so be it… If you see it and fail to note it you may be as guilty as the guy that did it. See you in court!..
Originally Posted By: dbozek This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Yes I did say that any time you double tap a breaker the chance for overloading it exists. Perhaps I worded that wrong. Anytime you double tap a breaker you induce the chance to overload it. Granted any single connection to a breaker can be overloaded as well. However, not typically the case. The circuit is sized and wired to meet the load intended for it. When you add a second circuit to it, the protection device no longer is sized to meet the two different loads, therefore inducing a overloading condition now becomes prominent. A single 20 amp branch circuit is provided for what contractor’s would assume to be no more than 80% of the total load for that circuit. Put another 20 amp circuit to the same breaker and now you have exceeded that 80%. Of course this depends on what is being double tapped to the breaker. A doorbell transformer is not going to create an overload but an entire new branch circuit designed to run several outlets throughout a house could and would. The only way a double tap would not present a potential overload is if each circuit was amped out and determined to not exceed the capacity of the protection device. The average individual that would double tap a breaker does not take that into consideration. A sparky would. Overall, a double tapped breaker, whether rated for it or not, is not acceptable in my industry. It does in fact induce the possibility for overloading protection devices and presents potentially hazordous conditions. If not from the differences in wire sizes attached to a breaker, then from trying to protect two circuits at the same time from one protection device. If the circuits in question are properly determined to not exceed the ampacity of the breaker, they should then be spliced together via a wire nut and preferably outside of the panel, thus allowing only one wire to be attached to the breaker.
