Electric panel without main breakers

Originally Posted By: kbliss
This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.



I inspected a home today and the service box did not have a main shutoff, so I was not able to determine the amperage coming in to the service panel. Could someone help me on this and how to report it?


Kurt Bliss


Originally Posted By: jmyers
This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.



Kurt,


You have either a main breaker or a main lug. You had a main lug. The panel rating still has to be listed on the panel no matter if it is a main lug or a main breaker. Main lugs are ok according to the codes as long as the electric to the entire home can be turned off with a total of not more than 6 switches or breakers.

You really should be checking the size of the service wire in relation to the panel rating anyway. There are gauges out there that will help you "guage" the size of the wire so you can tell if it exceeds the ampacity rating of the panel.

If you are feeling a little weak on the electrical part of the inspection you can try purchasing some electrical books from Mike Holt.

The internet address is: http://mikeholt.com

There have some very good electrical material available on their web site.

Joe Myers


Originally Posted By: rmeyers
This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.



Kurt,


I have inspected several installations lately where the main disconnect was on the building exterior next to the meter for emergency access by fire departments. (Usually on condos or duplexes but becoming more frequent on single family) Also had one where the entire breaker panel was on the exterior of the house. Bad planning in my book, especially for those stormy winter nights when a breaker trips for whatever reason. Probably 50' from nearest door. Passed by local jurisdiction (25 years ago).

I usually also look for a rating on the panel box or enclosure.

Size and type of wire for service entrance will also determine service capacity. (General rule of thumb)
AWG#2 copper - 125 Amps Aluminum - 100 Amps
AWG#1 copper - 150 Amps Aluminum - 110 Amps
1/0 copper - 175 Amps Aluminum - 125 Amps
2/0 copper - 200 Amps Aluminum - 150 Amps
3/0 Aluminum - 175 Amps
4/0 Aluminum - 200 Amps

Some of our electrical wizards will hopefully be able to share more technical details on this subject.

In general the weakest link of all the service components will determine what the actual "safe" rating of the system is.

Don't know if this helps, just rambling! ![icon_eek.gif](upload://yuxgmvDDEGIQPAyP9sRnK0D0CCY.gif)


--
Russ Meyers

Originally Posted By: kbliss
This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.



Joe,


Thanks for the link and the info. I do have guages and will remember to use them next time, just just another reason why NACHI is such a great organization.


Russ,
thanks also for the helpfull info, really appreciate the help.


Originally Posted By: Neil Brinker
This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.



Kurt, Russ and Joe. Along with the useful information already posted be aware that the incoming line wire gauge is the dictator. 125 amp panels are sometimes used for say 100 or even 60 amp subpanels. If the panel itself states 125 amp that does not necessarily mean this is what’s feeding it. Joe did make this point. The wire gauge verses ampacity rating that Russ states is what is common at this location also. Code requires the service panel be installed at the closest point to where the entrance cable enters the home. This is meant to minimize damage to the cable. Having the panel installed elsewhere is OK but then the service entrance cable must have a disconnect on the outside rated for total ampacity of panel installed according to wire gauge. You now have effectively changed from se cable to ser(service entrance round)cable. The outside disconnect is a very good thing to have in case of fire. With ser cable, an outside disconnecting means and AHJ approval you may run whatever length of ser cable you need to supply the panel inside the building. Be aware that an outside disconnect does not take the place of overcurrent protection. The panel needs both in this situation. Sorry to be so long winded but hope this helps in some way. icon_biggrin.gif


Originally Posted By: jmyers
This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.



Neil,


Thank you for taking the time for such thoughtful input on this subject.

Joe Myers