Gentlemen, I have been an inspector for four years. I have always been told that an electric hot water heater has to have an emergency or contractor shutoff in case it is being worked on or there are problems. This is in addition to the cold water shutoff. I’m told, and read, that the electric shutoff must be in a direct-line-of-sight and should be in close proximity to the water heater. I’m told that it is passable if the electrical shutoff is a breaker in the main service panel if the panel can be locked.
I have recently seen a couple of replacement water heaters where there is no electrical shutoff. I wrote them up as Marginal and recommended to contact an electrician to build out the shutoff in close proximity and direct-line-of-sight of the water heater. One client contacted the local county inspection group and received the answer that if the home is an older (didn’t specify age) and the replacement is in the same location and the prior water heater did not have an electric shutoff, then there is no requirement for a shutoff. Yes, one should be recommended but there is no code requirement. I called the inspector and he told me the same thing.
All internet searches state an electric shutoff is required. Period.
What’s the answer? I thought all electric water heaters required the nearby shut off and I guess I can defer to the main service panel but can’t quite get hold of the requirement it has to be lockable. If I simply write up a passing inspection but with a recommendation for a nearby shutoff, is that OK?
I’m located in Northern Virginia if that makes a difference.
I don’t change my recommendation based on the age of the home.
If I find a fuse panel, I recommend upgrade to a modern electrical service panel with breakers.
If I find that kitchen electrical receptacles are not GFCI-protected, I recommend upgrade to protect the circuit.
If I find a deck over 30" above grade with no guardrail or substandard guardrail, I recommend upgrade to a guardrail to modern standards.
If I find a water heater that doesn’t have a properly installed TPRV, expansion tank (if needed), drip pan (if needed), water and electrical shut-offs, then I recommend upgrades.
It doesn’t matter how old the home is. I may word my recommendation differently than if it were new construction (upgrade vs correction) but all deficiencies go into my report.
Thank you. Appreciate the expansion. Sometimes I get caught up on code. And I like the use of the term “upgrade.” As in … not finding a nearby shutoff panel, recommend an upgrade to include a shutoff on direct line of sight and close proximity.
If the branch circuit breaker is within a direct line of sight from the equipment (the NEC defines within sight to be distance of 50’ or less) it qualifies as a disconnecting means. Also a permanent locking device on the breaker can serve as the disconnecting means if the circuit breaker is not within sight.
It’s code (and I know we don’t look at code). Per the comments its to keep someone from flipping the breaker on while the water heater, in another room, is being worked on.
Furnaces and condensers are permanently connected motor-operated appliances with motors rated over 1∕8 hp and have a different requirement. NEC 422.31(c)
And for @rlam2 “I have always been told” is a weak argument. Very weak.
That’s like the National Urban Legend Code (NULC). That might work fine in politics, but in home inspection there should be higher standards.
I just tell people that the newer rules require this or that and that they should consider improvement. Sometimes I say consider improvement for safety. I try not to make a big deal out of something that wasn’t required at time of construction unless it is a big deal…
