The metal flue pipe is the exhaust from a 1994 fan assisted boiler. The plastic pipe is from a 2006 fan assisted water heater. Is this a proper installation of these exhaust flues? There is an operable window about 5 feet to the left of these pipes. Is this far enough away?
Is that WH flue pipe at or above grade, or going through earth??? Cant tell in pic.
It’s going in right at grade.
Correction: I was referring to the metal flue pipe for the boiler.
I’m heading out in a few minutes, so don’t have time to look it up right now. Will get back to you later if others haven’t already given you the info, but in the meantime,** it is improper**. The metal flue requires a minimun distance from grade (and never touching earth). That in itself is enough to call it out for repair. If waiting to complete your report, word it so the entire flue is evaluated and repaired to proper standards.
Note: 5 foot distance from operable window is acceptable.
Hope that helped.
Looks like an amateur install on the metal flue pipe.
Most direct vent boilers in that era used (“Plexvent ,” “Plexvent II” or "Ultravent ")HTPV pipe that was later recalled and replaced with stainless steel.
The flue gas condensate is somewhat acidic and the galvanized probably won’t last long.
The is also a lack of a downward bend on the termination which will allow rain water in and eventually corrode the flue assist fan.(this actually happened on a property I owned.)
Consult the boiler manufactures recommendations and don’t hesitate in referring repair as needed by an HVAC tech that is familiar with hot water system boilers.
Does anybody know when did they stop using galvanized for flues on direct vent broilers? I know on the older 80% or lower efficiency ones was allowed.
Mechanical draft vent terminals must be no closer than 4 feet below or beside a door or window. If you have 5 feet it is good too go