Grounding/bonding manufactured home

I have a manufactured/mobile home with the disconnect at the meter at the pole within 30 feet. At the remote distribution panel (in the mobile home) neutrals are isolated and the the ground bar is bonded to the steel frame.

There is a 3-wire feed from disconnect to “sub” panel.

Shouldn’t there also be a #6 ground from disconnect to “sub” panel ground bar?

That’s probably an AHJ’s call, but how is the feed brought into the home – steel conduit?
If so, with AHJ’s approval, the conduit could serve as the grounding conductor.
Otherwise, with separated neutrals and grounds, there should be a dedicated grounding conductor between the remote panel in the house and the disconnect on the pole.

No conduit. UF feeder cables.

Also no AHJ, semi-rural area.

The service disconnect is grounded/bonded to a ground rod at the pole.

It also depends on the year of manufacture. There was a period when a “3-wire” feed was the norm.

However, the manufactured home requires its own ground-rod or other type of grounding-electrode.

Yeah… This is not right, and you have correctly called it out.
“How to fix it” is beyond our scope, of course, but what they will probably do is bond the grounding and the neutral bars at the panel. Not right, but beats re-running the buried feeder. I’ve seen it done by licensed sparkies, and passed by AHJ.
One way or the other, this has to be fixed; The way it is now, even if the panel is grounded to a rod, or even two, any ground fault in the house wiring will probably not clear.

Manufactured in 1999.

The only grounding electrode I could determine was at the metal frame.

So recommend either run a grounding conductor between the disconnect and remote panel. Or install a ground rod at mobile home/sub-panel?

The grounding electrode for the trailer (separate structure) is required, regardless of the egc between panels.


Please, make no mistake about it: ground rod is not a replacement for the grounING conductors bonded to the groundED (neutral), which, based on what you’ve described is NOT the case in that dwelling.
Bonding ground to neutral conductors SOMEWHERE, even at a remote panel, is better than not bonding at all, and misguidedly relying on ground rods.
Ground rod helps dissipate induced voltage from lightning, etc.
However, if grounding conductor is not bonded to neutral, what can happen is after a short, it could leave metal cable jackets, metal appliance parts, etc, energized without ever tripping the breaker, thus subjecting people to severe shock hazard.
Mike Holt has a video talking about a soldier electrocuted while taking a shower in a barrack made of sheetmetal. The metal in the building became energized when a piece of metal abraded and ate through the feeder’s hot conductor insulation. The metal was grounded to ying-yang, via an Ufer and some ground rods, but because it was not bonded to the neutral, the resistance to the ground was too high to produce enough current to trip the breaker, so it never tripped. All of the building’s piping and walls were under 120 volts to the ground, killing the poor guy.

Is the neutral at the sub panel bonded to the enclosure?

No it wasn’t.

The ground bar is connected to metal frame.

The ground at service disconnect at meter is bonded to a ground rod at meter/pole.

You can’t see neutral bar real well here, but I checked at inspection, bar not bonded to panel.