Whats the deal with Mike Holmes Inspection. Looks like he,s ready for business.
looks like you are neww to this Industry and this Forum Have alook and see what the experts see on the Forum. Go here and read to you hearts content .
Roy is right
Nothing at the link, Roy. But, yes… this has been discussed ‘ad nauseum’.
I had a coffee with one of their marketing guys. (Scott)
Basically they charge $600 or more for a home inspection. Then they sub the work out to another inspection company, and pay them $200.
It’s a marketing machine. Nothing more.
You need to wear a Mike Holmes Inspection uniform during the inspection. You need to keep it a secret that you are self-employed. You are not allowed to hand the client a business card with your business info. You also need to use their software (called Horizon)
Word on the street is that Sears is getting into the same thing.
Don’t be surprised if it get’s announced that Sears and Mike Holmes team up with each other!!!
(You heard it here first):roll:
the public needs to WAKE UP:roll::roll:
" HI, Sears? I’d like a home inspection, a lawn tractor and a pair of 36-32 beige Chinos please."
Anyone want to bet that if there is a problem with the “Holmes Inspection” you are suddenly ‘self employed’ !!? :shock:
Now thats funny…and probably true!
“Anyone want to bet that if there is a problem with the “Holmes Inspection” you are suddenly ‘self employed’ !!?”
Not “probably” true. It is absolutely true.
At first I was flattered that they offered to cut me in on their deal. But then I thought it all through. A few things stick out in my mind.
Being self-employed has it’s advantages and disadvantages. Conversely, being employed by a large company and getting paid by the hour also has it’s own advantages and disadvantages.
This sub-contract situation has the disadvantages of both, and the advantages of neither.
Saw another episode of Little Mikey Holmes Inspection again tonight.
SAD!! SAD!! SAD!! for some of the “INFO” he or his right hand man , Damon, spouts. He should remember “It’s being recorded!!”
Did you know that:
“Dry rot and wet rot are different types. Wet rot only occurs when wood is wet all the time, while dry rot only occurs from condensation on roof sheathing” (or something to that effect!!)
“Crawlspace venting is necessary in summertime because of the heat and stagnant air found there”
The more he says recently, the less I know he knows!!!
On a previous show, Damon mentions the HEPA exhaust air filtration on an asbestos remediation job is to catch “the spores”!!! This was not edited out…??
Wet and Dry Timber Rot
The ingredients for rot to start in timbers are timber, fungal spores and water.
Excluding any one of these from the ‘mix’ prevents rot from occurring. In properties there are many timbers and spores everywhere; this leaves the one controllable ingredient as water. Unfortunately we place many timbers in areas of buildings where they are susceptible to moisture ingress. This is particularly so in ground floors, roofs and in areas where we use water, such as bathrooms and kitchens. Any timbers that come in prolonged contact with water will eventually rot.
Where spores can germinate the usual result is decay to timber by wet rot. This is a localised fungal infection only to those areas of the timber that are damp. Wet rots are not aggressive fungi and will die when moisture is removed from their environment. Treatments for wet rot usually rely on physical exclusion of moisture and the removal and replacement of decayed timbers. Chemical treatments are not usually required, but are employed to provide protection to new timber materials or where fungal growth has been particularly heavy. They would also be used as a stop-gap measure if a rotted, but still serviceable, timber had to remain in place.
A different more aggressive fungal attack is that of dry rot. This always starts in wet timbers, but can continue to grow with a restricted moisture supply, spreading extensively through masonry to attack any timbers it meets. Severe structural damage to timbers in buildings can result and specialist treatments are always required.
Like assessing insect attack to timbers, our work to deal with timber rot always starts with a visit to site to inspect the problem. Testing usually involves the probing of potentially affected timbers with a sharp screw driver and visual identification of any fungal growths. Any “give” in the timbers indicates softening usually caused by fungal decay. In well decayed timbers a screw driver can be driven into the rotten timber core, or sections of timber easily split away from the timber’s surface. Treatment depends on the rot type, its location and the structural requirements of the remedial repairs. The initial treatment must always allow for the exclusion of water from the timber, or the isolation of the timber from further moisture source with a physical barrier. Chemical treatments are employed to help new timbers or remaining timbers withstand levels of residual moisture, which otherwise might continue to allow further decay.
Use of fungicidal treatments is governed by Acts of Parliament (law) and Health and Safety Regulations. This requires specialist knowledge. Timber replacement must follow existing Building Regulations and guidelines to make sure that the timbers can perform structurally to specification.
Where treatment is recommended/required, then this is usually a combination of liquid and paste or gel compounds of boron (a naturally occurring mineral). We also sometimes use a fungicidal micro-emulsifiable solution (FMEC), otherwise known as polyphase or iodo-propynyl butyl carbamate, where circumstances allow or dictate. However, most of the treatments we carry out are with boron, which is a natural fungicide in the right concentration.
Treatments for wet and especially dry rot attack are not straight forward as they may involve extensive rebuilding of structural building components. After treatments Health and Safety regulations require the minimum of 8 hours to elapse and surfaces to be dry before re-entry to a treated area and its reinstatement to habitable use. There are a some fungicides now available where a 1 hour re-entry has been granted, but this is still dependant on the timber being dry as well. Drying out is unlikely to be that fast unless it is forced. We prefer to consider the 8 hour “rule” as being the one to apply.
Recent reformulation of timber treatment fluids now means that they are virtually odour free. Some slight smell may be noticed immediately after treatment, but this quickly declines with drying and improved ventilation.
**To Block… or Not to Block Crawlspace Vents during the Winter? **
During the winter months, your crawlspace can be a source of cold floors and lost heat, but blocking your vents may not always be the best way to compensate for this.
By Eric Leech
Denver, CO, USA | Thu Jan 29, 2009 10:30 AM ET
Non-insulated crawl of typical American home.
Should you block your crawlspace vents? This is a very common question. Especially in areas that have both a reasonably hot summer and fairly frigid winter. There is not much question that in general these vents are a needed and necessary part of a well maintained home. These vents are placed within the crawlspace to allow the moisture that builds up underneath to have an escape route. Without such a moisture release, you could be looking at mold, mildew, and rotting wood over a matter of time. None of which are a pleasurable experience to deal with. But these vents have been known to create a cold draft in your floors, which can reduce the energy efficiency of your heating system.
So the question remains, will a few winter months with your vents blocked off do all that much harm? The problem with this question is that there are a lot of factors that create a home to be more susceptible to moisture build-up than others. Not to mention a lot of differing opinions from experts. The Answer is “No”, but with Options. The safest and most commonly accepted code for any home is to leave crawlspace vents in place year round. However, there are a few things you can do to help combat those cold winter floors and reduced heating inefficiency due to drafts. One alternative is to insulate your sub floor, another is to beef up your insulation in the crawlspace itself, but which one is best depends on the type of crawlspace you are dealing with.
**Option One and Two, Depending on Type of Crawl Space:
**In simplest terms, there are crawlspaces with water pipes and those without. Crawl spaces with pipes will either have the concrete walls around the perimeter coated with insulation, or the pipes themselves will be insulated or wrapped with heat tape (sometimes both). If your crawlspace has no pipes, or the pipes are self insulated, you can get away with adding insulation to the sub floor to inhibit the cold air from reaching your living space above. If your crawl space has uninsulated pipes and insulation around its walls, it was most likely designed to allow a portion of the heat from the living space above to escape below to keep the pipes from freezing. In this case it would be highly unadvised to insulate your sub floor, as that would be taking away from the one source of heat your crawlspace has. What would be most beneficial for this scenario is beefing up your existing insulation around the concrete walls to keep the area warmer.
**Option Three, Temporary Vent Block Off:
**When you know you’ve got a really bad cold front coming in, many folks recommend blocking off and insulating your crawlspace vents for those couple days. This can be done by taking a small trash bag, stuffing it with insulation, then placing it within the vented area. You never want to push unprotected insulation to the vent as any direct moisture contact from the outside will ruin its insulating properties. Just remember to remove the block off once the cold front has passed. To ease your mind a bit on any moisture building up during the time that your vents are closed off, it is important to make sure that your dirt floor is properly covered with a good vapor barrier. Each sheet of the barrier should be no less than 6 mm in thickness, and overlap a minimum of 12 inches for maximum protection. The natural water from within the dirt is one of your biggest culprits for introducing moisture into the crawlspace, so a good plastic barrier will reduce crawlspace humidity substantially. You can also add a dehumidifier to the area, running a hose from the water collection of the dehumidifier to your sump pump, allowing for the ultimate in maintenance free operation.
Option Four, Seal your Floor Perimeter and Crawlspace Door:
If you check around the perimeter of floor above your crawlspace, you might be very very surprised to discover how much cold air is escaping through to your living space. This is especially common for those who have replaced carpeting, or gone from carpet to a hardwood or tile floor. To help reduce drafts, you can seal the molding running along the bottom of your walls with a silicone/latex caulk. This should reduce the air gaps leading from the crawlspace to the living space directly above. The actual crawlspace door is another big culprit for allowing cold drafts into the above living space. Many experts recommend insulating the door with a foam insulation board and then running weatherstripping around the perimeter of the opening to get a tight seal once the door is in place. If you have a hole drilled in the door to allow for its easy removal, try using a cabinet handle instead. You can then block off the old hole using the foam board mentioned above.
So the short answer to the question, should I block off my crawlspace vents during the winter, is no, if you want to be on the safe side. But using one or more of the above mentioned options will help reduce the amount of cold air introduced into your living space, thus improving both personal comfort level and energy efficiency substantially!
Whether it’s DIY green renovation tips you’re looking for or 5 ways to reuse nearly everything you can think of, learn how with Planet Green Home & Garden](http://planetgreen.discovery.com/home-garden/).
There is no such thing as “dry rot”…this is (1) the now dried remnants of rotted wood (formerly “wet wood”) or wood destroyed by the type of fungus that can transfer water from a wet area to a dry area. All fungus needs moisture to grow.
From a 1920 Forest Products Laboratories short paper:
“This fungus gains its distinction from the fact that it is frequently found growing in timbers without any apparent moisture supply; in reality it does not grow without moisture and is as powerless as any other fungus to infect thoroughly dry wood. Given moist wood in which to germinate, it is able to make its way a surprisingly long distance in dry timbers, drawing the water it needs from the moist wood through a conduit system of slender, minutely porous stands”
I question the writer’s mention of the fungus growing through masonry.
This guy used to write for “car” magazines!!
seams Mr holmes will do a show in the US (word on the net)
Really? Non-Insulated? Then that fuzzy yellow stuff between the floor joists must be a new mold I have not seen before. :roll:
I sure hope Mike brings his HI business to Phoenix…I can not wait to be the $500 Low Baller. Hahaahahhaha
As I said before…This guy used to write for “car” magazines!!
Just so yall know, I had a newsletter from Carson Dunlop and associates ( the people who set up and oversee the college programs across Canada for Home Inspection training.) They are currently working in concert with Sears to set up a pilot Home Inspection program in Alberta Canada. You can expect that Sears competition is not far behind. Ie Home Depot, Lowes etc. The letter did not give start dates but indicated they were actively recruiting starting with Carson Dunlop Graduates. (They also offer an on line training program.)
Canadian Redneck n proud of it