The RLA and FLA readings are quick to take. I pull the covers off most AC units to check the wiring. Just put your clamp on meter on the hot feed to the compressor and to the feed to the fan motor. If the amperage is at or above the manufacturer rating, there is a problem that needs to be addressed by a licensed air conditioning company. If they do not address it and call me later, I just refer to my reprot.
Where it is difficult to remove the cover plate, I take the RLA reading at the service disconnect and usually skip the fan motor.
Does everyone here report on the temperature drop. I do not take a TD when the coils are iced up or dirty, because the reading is not accurate. Some realtors look at me funny when they ask for the TD and I tell them that I didn’t take one because of dirty coils. I explain that the unit needs to be serviced and then the drop can be taken.
Not in my company. And I know of no major or minor competitors here who do so.
I will take a TD under any circumstances, even when the officials are obviously wrong. Hey, we’re all human. Instant replay has taken away from Monday morning sports talk around the water cooler.
All Realtors look at me funny, but Realtors in your area must be particularly intelligent since they are asking for the TD. Realtors here only ask for pass or fail.
“but Realtors in your area must be particularly intelligent” - Isnt that an oxymoron?
Realtors are only ‘intelligent’ when it can help their cause. They are smart enough to know that a ‘good’ TD means everything is fine. In fact, many of them only want to know what the TD is and dont care about the rest of the system.
Same thing with a roof. Many contracts only call for leak free and water tight. Lets forget about age, condition of shingles, previous repairs, etc.
Out here they only care about whether the heater heats and the cooler cools. I’ve found that an easy way to determine that is to turn the heating system on and let it run until everyone complains about how hot it is. That pretty much indicates that the heater heats. Then I turn the cooler on and let it run until everyone complains about how cold it is. That pretty much indicates that the cooler cools. And interestingly, I can do all of that concurrently with other things I’m inspecting, so the actual inspection time can be shortened by a few minutes. A few minutes here and a few minutes there and we’re down to a DRIVEBY or FLYBY inspection!
It is my opinion that you are trying to do a great job/service for you client. I also think, that if you continue to do this type of exhaustive/invasive inspection, your apt to loose everything you got, in Court. I was taught that our job is to visually inspect and record the findings. If you are an expert in the field and willing to put that License on the line in Court, go for it. But as a Home Inspector, I plan to tell the Client what I can verify. Everything else I refer to the Pro’s. Don’t go outside your realm of verifiable knowledge.
I have seen some units that actually say NOT to trap the condensate drain, because there is an internal trap in the unit. It is usually on a label under the condensate connection.
There are a lot of us H/I’s out there doing a lot more than is recommended. I’m wondering if I missed something in all the course(s) work I have been taking over the years.
I thought best practices was no “invasive” or “technically exhaustive” inspections. I’m talking generalities here. No specific exclusions. So don’t start ripping me a new one. Am I missing something?
I have an invasive and technically exhaustive inspection: my TECH inspection. My BASIC, STANDARD, and PREMIUM inspections are general home inspections. My LIST, WALK, VOICE, CARRY, DRIVEBY, and FLYBY inspections are not home inspections in the general or technically exhaustive sense since four of the five do not even include a written report.
Greg, this doesn’t just apply to HVAC. There are a lot of inspectors who exceed SOP’s on certain systems **if they are qualified and feel comfortable in doing so. **
Go with your comfort level in determining how you are going to inspect. The SOP’s are there for a reason, but if you so desire there is nothing to keep you from exceeding them.
Just be aware that by going over and above, you may be providing a superior inspection to that of your competition, while opening yourself up to potential problems if you ever go to court.
The arguments on this board are endless concerning SOP’s and whether or not to exceed them. The bottom line is, do what **you **think is within your knowledge and comfort zone, and you should be fine.
I would say that the bottom line is to do not only what you think is within your knowledge and comfort zone, but do it in consultation with your attorneys and your insurance advisors (E&O, GL, AD&D, life, workers’ comp, etc.).
And a good opinion!
It is always good to learn as much as you can, however the home inspector does not own enough tools or have enough time for HVAC.
You can observe and report what you see. In actuality, you can evaluate an HVAC system without using a single piece of test equipment. Just using your senses will do the job. However, you must know what you’re sensing. Anything beyond, requires an HVAC contractor to evaluate and correct necessary repairs. We do not have to evaluate and diagnose the equipment. However we can observe and report the unusual occurrences that we see.
Case in point…Today doing a duplex. One of the unit’s AC did not work at all. It is a 14 year old unit in poor condition. Checked all the usual things, Crkt Brkr, etc. Went to condenser unit to find the big puppy in the yard had been busy. Note the tip of the condensate drain line too. BoBo is teething. It isn’t always simple but sometimes you just get lucky.
Hi Guys,
One thing I wanted to mention that is very important… I always list the (estimated age) of the furnace… very important! If you are inspecting a furnace that is 20 years or older, and has had significant use, chances are there are going to be cracks in the heat exchanger.
I also check the gas line, many older furnaces have “rigid” aluminum gas lines that should be replaced with safer flexible ones…
Always check the Venting… I have come across a lot of heat vents that extend into the attic and are disconnected… discharging carbon monoxide into the attic space and eventually can come back into the living areas.
My inspection is limited and visual, I check for flame pattern, check for heavy signs of rust near the burners… check the ducts and heat vent for (possible) asbestos containing material.
And no matter what age, I always recommend that the unit be serviced by an HVAC technician, and be inspected by the Local Gas Utility Company before close of escrow.
I stay away from instruments such as gas detectors (besides my own nose) and carbon monoxide detectors… Here’s the risk, if you state the system is not releasing carbon monoxide and it is… there are some legal issues here for liability. I would only use these as a guage.
[quote=jwatts1]
Hi Guys,
One thing I wanted to mention that is very important… I always list the (estimated age) of the furnace… very important! If you are inspecting a furnace that is 20 years or older, and has had significant use, chances are there are going to be cracks in the heat exchanger.
I also check the gas line, many older furnaces have “rigid” aluminum gas lines that should be replaced with safer flexible ones…
Justin your statement bothers me. Chances are a twenty year old furnace is going to have cracks in the heat exchanger.
If so when you arrived for the inspection hope you brought body bags with you. Hope you do not use that type of statement in your report to the client. Chances are covers lots of terrritory.
Here is my standard statement if nothing is out of the ordinary with the furnace.
The gas fired furnace MFG in 1980 located within the garage closet has proper combustion air for its burner provided from the attic and was operated from the thermostat thru a normal cycle. The discharge air from the furnace heat exchanger into the living area of the home was tested for carbon monoxide with a test results of zero% parts per million. This furnace should be considered as operating normal at the time of inspection but has exceeded what is considered an average life expectancy for this type of equipment.
By the way can you define ridgid aluminum gas line on a furnace I don’t beleive I have ever encountered one.
Hi Charley,
So your carbon monoxide detector is right 100% of the time… and what about when the furnace does get cracks! Or let’s say months later carbon monoxide does fill the home and harms occupants… Unless you are spending an (hour) or more evaluating the furnace system and (completely evaluating the heat exchanger unit) You are the one that needs to be careful…
Better to have a (licensed HVAC) contractor make the determination…
A (rigid) line is rigid… I run into them on 50’s - 70’s furnace units. They should be replaced with flexible type gas lines, like the ones you see on your newer water heater gas supply…
The difference in the temperature at the coil.
