So the question I posted on my thread tittle today is as a Home Inspector (Not an electrician) how far would you go to inspect this exterior.
Open exterior cover & then remove the 2 screws.
There is a GFCI in the cover & you need to remove 2 screws that are stripped. GFCI didnt work & I figured it was there for the utility company as the home had a front & back GFCI & this would not be needed by the home owner. I reported as inoperable
The interior cover you need to pry to remove. Will not lift out with installed handle assemply.
I stopped at this point as the cover would not come out with moderate pressure.
Now to the interior panel. This appeared to be a remote distribution panel.
As you can see from the photos the white romex was added on by the homeowner to the basement. He used 14 gauge to 20 amp breakers. He also ran 2 wires in one hole so I knew it was done by a handyman.
Question. Can a siemens breaker be installed in a cutler hammer panel?
On the inside, the two cables into a singel NM connector is prefectly fine, safe and legal.
The #14 on a 20a is a blatant violation and not exactly safe.
The Siemens breaker may very well be legal in that panel. A slong as it is rated to use in a BR panel.
IMHO, might be beyond a HI task. The rule is 1 cable per connector unless the manufacturer says its ok. So, from what I do, it’s a c-500 or Ai’s Black buttons, I wouldn’t know off the top of my head it it was ok. Might want to defer er the whole electrical system, since the collection of ‘flaws’ is growing.
Very true if it’s 14# gauge. Don’t’ fall into the color trap, manufacturers changed to colors to try and non-reading inspectors and workers to stop over loading the wires. Take the time to read the information on the jacket, you might find people using NM instead of NM-B, and it might be 12/2 romex, just a couple years old, prior to coloring.
Check the inside, usually there is a disclaimer as to what breakers are allowed in the panel. Also, I’ve seen some people use ‘off’ brands of breakers to bypass the panel manufacturers designs to limit the use of tandem breakers. Count the number of breakers, this panel could also be overloaded, per code.
About the connectors. I don’t think I’ve ever seen a two-screw (typical) metallic NM cable connector that was not rated for at least two cables.
This is SOP for me so I can leave as many unused K-O’s as I can. I HATE it when I come across a panel with no available K-O’s and every damn NM connector has only one cable. AGRH!
Same here, saves time, weighs nothing, and the price is right. I don’t like is, newbs who think they can just yank out a cable from them, because their plastic. I’ve seen home run sheaths damaged because of newbs.
P.S. Been waiting for the local supply shops to get the RACO’s version in, they connect from the inside out. Wouldn’t mind having a few of those. <crossing fingers>
Arlington invents some of the coolest stuff. I’m glad to see a “flush” romex connector. Often, people would omit any kind of connector for coming in the back of kitchen exhaust hoods and fluorescent strip lights over closet doors. The flush type romex connector is more palletable to installers for those applications.