This inspection was of a staircase coming from the ground level floor of the home to the second story. There are a total of 13 steps in the staircase. The handrail is circular, and runs the entire length of the staircase. It is a well lit walkway with an overhead fixture, and a switch at the top and bottom of the staircase. The pictures attached are measurements of the rise and tread depth of the steps. There is a 9 7/8th" tread depth on each step and a 7" riser on each step. The recommended minimum tread depth measurement is 10", but this staircase is easily navigated, and in excellent condition. There is no need to make any repairs or alterations to the steps.
I chose two articles from the library that pertained to the course topics in this section. I chose to read “Installing Attic Insulation” and “Roof Underlayment Types”, to get a deeper understanding of attic and roof construction, and the importance of air travel between the two. First, the attic should be “sealed” from the top floor of the house with a vapor barrier. This will prevent warm, humid air from rising through the floor of the attic. On top of the vapor barrier should be a level of insulation, to keep cold air from traveling back down to the living space below. This will decrease energy loss in the home and make the living space more comfortable. In the state of Maine, the recommended R value of attic insulation is 49. This can be fiberglass batt insulation or loose blown cellulose. Another important factor in keeping your attic correctly sealed is managing humidity. To keep humid air from building up in the attic, baffles should be installed in the eaves of the roof, to provide proper airflow from the soffits to the roof vents. The roof covering should be underlayed with appropriately rated tarpaper, which will act as a water resistant barrier for the roof sheathing. Using staples to adhere the tarpaper to the sheathing can cause the paper to rip and tear during shingle installation. Instead, the tarpaper should be installed using plastic caps to prevent water leaks. Following these steps will ensure a properly ventilated attic space that helps conserve energy in the home.
The attic in the image is a zone 6 home which requires an R – value of 49; however the loose fill fiberglass insulation is only 12 inches deep which means it has an R – value of 30 at the moment. It is recommended another 7.5 inches be added to save energy and meet the standards. There is no insulation covering the attic hatch and it is recommended that be changed immediately. Asphalt covered paper can be found underneath the insulation to protect the home from moisture. There is no sign of moisture damage in the attic. This attic is ventilated by weather protected gable louvers and the ventilation they provide is adequate for the attics size.
Attic pull down ladders
This article teaches you about pull-down ladders, more specifically how to tell if they were professionally installed and if they meet industry standard. A good way to tell if an attic pull down ladder is properly installed is to look at the amount and type of screws used. If there aren’t the right amounts of screws used then it is a safety concern for the inspector and the tenant. If the screws used aren’t correct then there is another safety concern because they are very likely to break under pressure. Also most of the time attic ladders won’t have proper insulation on them which causes energy cost increase.
Installing attic insulation
This article teaches you important steps on how to properly insulate an attic and ventilate it. When inspecting an attic, ensure that there is a free flow of outside air from the ventilation. Make sure to always check for a moisture barrier underneath the insulation. Look for spots where insulation is lacking and or too thinly spread.
The home being inspected was located in Zone 3. Note that the rafters are 2" x 6" along with the framing for the ceiling. While loose insulation was noted to exist in the attic, it was deemed to be insufficient. Loose insulation measured an average of 6" in depth and was moderately compressed after being installed many years ago. It was recommended that insulation be added to increase the value to a minimum of R-30. Also noted was the existence of sheathing to provide a landing at the top of the access. Although not uncommon, the sheathing was applied directly to the framing which allows a maximum of 6 1/2" of space for insulation. It was noted that to reach a minimum R value of 30 that the distance between the landing sheathing and drywall for the ceiling be increased.
INSPECTION & WRITING ASSIGNMENT
“ATTIC INSULATION”
I am writing about the attic insulation in my house. I have an attached two car garage on my house. The first image (003) is the insulation over my garage, as you can see it is blown insulation and it covers the bottom chords of the trusses. The second image is while standing at the access looking down to the other side of the house. The third image is of the cathedral ceiling of my living room. All images show the blown insulation that covers the bottom chords of the trusses.
The steps noted in this home reflect the time and standards in which it was constructed - approximately 100 years ago. The hand rail is below the 34" minimum which is a contemporary standard. The treads (area stepped upon) are less than 10" which is also a more contemporary standard. The railing itself is quite large in size and resists the ability to be easily grasped. It is recommended that “steps” be taken to correct these inadequacies, but it is also acknowledged that significant expenses would be made as well as significant alterations to the floor plan in order to accommodate a full set of contemporary stairs.
Articles read include
Sound Smart Call Center
Drones
The sound smart call center covers some areas I have been contemplating for some time. The idea that various topics could be available for discussion with a caller via my phone or computer is brilliant, but a little challenging given the number of potential topics and the possibility of answering calls in the field and using the very phone on which my topics would be contained. The fee calculator too is also brilliant, but I personally envision a two part grid which factors age and home size. I’d have different grids for different communities (distance factor). I am inclined to have a range of flat mileage fees rather than “by the mile” add-on fees. Ultimately I will have to figure out how to handle these issues by myself or with a call center as I feel somewhat unwilling to hire a staff or additional inspectors when that time arrives.
Drones - I was aware of the general message which is:
They could be invaluable
They could be illegal if used for my business
That, to me, makes their use a challenging choice.
The consumer understands their value and may even know of the FAA’s stance. Having a potentially disgruntled client armed with that information is somewhat disturbing. Additionally, the use of a drone may turn a neighbor or passerby into a potential source of legal trouble. Ultimately I’ll probably use them selectively. I probably won’t advertise their use on my site or make a big issue about them. I may have a client and / or homeowner indicate that they understand that this is for a hobby use and for the collection of data to be submitted to the FAA at a future time and request their written consent for participation in this “pilot” project.
The first article I chose to read was titled Housewrap Inspection. Prior to completing the Insulation & Ventilation course I did not know the differences between permeable and impermeable materials. I also did not realize how important the selection of the right materials was based on the typical climate where the house will be located. Housewrap material works in two ways. It allows the building material on the interior side of a structure to breath by allowing water vapor to pass through it. While allowing water vapor to pass through, it also blocks the passage of liquid through the housewrap to the building material behind it.
The second article I chose to read was titled Insulating R-Value. The definition of R-value is the measurement used when quantifying a material’s level of thermal resistance. Insulation provides resistance to the flow of heat. A higher R-value means higher resistance to the heat flow. There are many important factors when selecting the appropriate type and rating of insulation such as location of insulation, climate, finishing materials, etc…
This picture shows a knee wall to a cathedral ceiling insulation it has batt insulation on knee wall and blown in paper insulation on ceiling it is 12’ it is covering all truss 2x4’s completely.
Reading assignment Blower door testing and Carbon Monoxide Poisoning and Detectors:
Blower door testing is becoming a very valuable testing process some city codes require it for C of O"s before new home owners can move in and also for energy star homes it is required.
C O detectors a required in home and save lives when properly maintained and batteries replaced if not hard wired .
Pictured is an exterior window in a typical stud wall system. Note the “Z” flashing above the header trim. The Z flashing is turned down the window trim sides to prevent water from wicking back onto the top and behind the window header.
In a residential setting a central HVAC system should have two essentials to a successful operation. First, the condensate drain should be “P” trapped to prevent odor and loss of vacuum on the drain line. In addition, I personally have an inverted “drip leg” with a pvc cap installed (not glued) in case the line needs to be blown out. Of course, regular monthly monitoring of the system return air grill and filter are essential to proper operation.
Two tools I am never without are a claw hammer and an adjustable (crescent) wrench. I prefer a straight claw hammer because of its use close to the floor. The adjustable wrench serves many functions, but most handily as a plumbing tool when supply lines or cut offs must be maintained.
I finally did an attic inspection in my own home last weekend. This is a picture of the bathroom vent not terminating outside of the building envelope as it should. I was surprised to not see any mold anywhere but relieved.
There was an adequate amount of insulation as you can see, anywhere from 8-12 inches in most spots.
This is considered a defect and I highly would recommend contacting a professional in getting the bathroom vent installed correctly so mold spores don’t produce.
The component I selected to write about related to the Insulation and Ventilation course is the proper insulating procedures for basements. I live in the Northern part of the US – Minnesota to be specific and basements are common in most homes. I did not realize that the best and most desirable practice is for the foundation wall to dry to the interior. The preferred insulation to use when finishing a basement is a rigid foam insulation board. This type of insulation will allow the wall to dry inward, away from the foundation and toward the interior of the finished basement space. This foam insulation should also be vapor-permeable meaning the water vapor be allowed to pass through the insulation.
Coincidentally, I started this class which includes proper insulation of crawlspaces, basements etc… This is a picture of the crawlspace from the last house I inspected. The house was built in 1908, you may notice the stone foundation. The crawlspace was not insulated in any way (floor joist or rim joist) and the floor was dirt minus any type moisture/vapor covering. My report reflected this and discussed the importance of insulation, ventilation and moisture control. This video not only helped with my chosen verbiage for the report, but also gave me the knowledge to relay the options/actions that can be taken to correct the insulation/ventilation issues.
I am currently taking the “How to Inspect the Attic, Insulation, Ventilation and Interior Course”. Within the course we are asked to read 2 articles from the available library on InterNACHI’s website. I chose 2 articles that involved energy conservation. The blower door article was great… I had heard about blower door testing and wanted read more about it… I also read an article regarding energy efficiency methods. It has become very apparent to me as I start my Inspection business that energy conservation is here and shouldn’t be ignored. The insulation, air ventilation and moisture control of a house can be very involved, more involved than I realized. This has changed my thought process on how much time I was going to put into the subject and education. I truly believe it is important for all of us to develop a thorough knowledge of energy efficiency. It is not only important because new construction is including more of it, but also because our clients are more aware of it and are asking more questions regarding energy efficiency. It has always been my philosophy to educate myself on as many topics as I can to be a better inspector and give my clients the answers they deserve.
Are your handrails the right high. According to OSHA standards a hand rail for residential should be a minimum of 30" high and not exceed 37". This picture example shows the handrail exceeding the OSHA requirements.
Ref. OSHA.gov; Stair rail and hand rail heights; §1926.1052©(6) and 1926.1052©(7)
Having the knowledge of your insulation and ventilation is extremely important if your an inspector or not. Understanding that compressed insulation becomes less effective. Blowing insulation carelessly over your soffit will be detrimental.
Reading and Writing Assignment “Bloom Boxes”
I found this article very interesting. I have never even heard of this concept before. If this company can fine tune this “Power Plant in a box” , who is to say that this concept of “a new type of fuel cell”, can’t supply electricity to homes and businesses in the near future, while also relieving the stresses put on power plants and grids. If this company can alleviate the three concerns; price, functionality, and the carbon footprint, then these “Bloom Boxes”, might very well be a viable source of power in the future.
“Doing damage during an inspection: It’s your job”
Although I have not yet preformed a home inspection, it is reassuring to know that some things are bound to happen that won’t be the fault of the inspector. SOP dictates that the inspector is " performing a non-invasive, visual examination of systems and components throughout the home". In case of something was to break during an inspection that the homeowner rarely uses or touches, it is reassuring to know that he or she has just identified a serious defect that needs immediate attention from the homeowner. The fact that the inspector found the defect before the homeowner tells of a thorough examination of the premises.