You’re correct Jim, the original poster didn’t mention it being a Fire Hazard, and he’s not even a CMI----
The CMI said it was a Fire Hazard–:lol:
Goes to show us anyone can buy that Logo.
Freaking Incredible the folks we have in our back yards doing “Specting”----:shock:
Dale, you’re right.
Neither a license, a logo, a membership, or a title can assure anyone of anything.
Unless you have a full time inspector designation.
You shouldn’t let that bother you so much, Chris. It’s really not that big of a deal.
Listen to Papa little Chris.
It does not bother me at all. I could less. It will have Zero affect on my business.
That’s great.
The seals regardless of where they’re from is nothing more than eye candy for peeps to drool over and think there must be something special about them because they have this seal.
True. The opponents of the designation that Chris is referring to seem to care more about it than those who plan to use it. It’s not going on my landing page, for sure. I intend to use it simply to dress up this page.
None of this has anything to do with the false fire alarm, however. Sorry for participating in this off topic stuff.
It’s called Ghosting No concern
You can see it on finished walls/ceiling some times showing the Rafters /joices
The installation of the fin tubing in the absence of it’s enclosure is not effective to heat the space intended.
The heat close to the framing structure will cause brownish discoloring on the wood caused by heat and dust particles within the space.
The heat radiating from the fines will stay trapped within the joist spaces and will demand more of a load on the heating system due to the heat loss from the hot water piping.
The radiant fin tubing should be installed at floor level with it’s intended enclosure which is designed to draw cooler air and radiate warm air towards the space.
There was no mention of a fire hazard and at 140 degrees, I doubt if it could ignite a piece of paper.
Geesh, where is this stuff and ideas coming from?
If that would be a hazard, half the old house in Maine would be burnt down by now. :)
The water in radiant floor systems generally runs from 90-110/15F. The water in baseboard radiators can be 180-185F…but still not hot enough to set wood or even pyrolized wood on fire. Dry wood will not ignite until 550-600*F.
:mrgreen:I picked up on that to.
Wood Handbook, Chapter 18: Fire Safety of Wood Construction
U.S. Department of Agriculture, Forest Service, Forest Products Laboratory
See Page 11, Last paragraph of left column and top of right column-----some interesting observations about longterm low temperature pyrolysis…I have seen some quoted temps for unpiloted ignition of this wood as low as 350-375*F.
From the WETT manual:
"Field reports have shown that wood exposed to temperatures as low as 120C (250F) will begin to char and may ignite over time. In order to provide a margin of safety, 90C (194F) is considered the maximum allowable temperature to which combustibles (wood) should be exposed for long periods.
The clearances specifications in installation codes like Canadian Standards Association (CSA) B365 (Installation Code for Solid-Fuel-Burning Appliances and Equipment) are based on the distance at which the heat source will cause the temperature of the floor, wall or ceiling to approach 90C (194F)"
Some interesting #'s in these documents.
You can touch the baseboards in my parents house all day long. Cast iron radiant floor fixtures. with a boiler in the back to supply the warm water.
It would be hard to find cast iron anymore, as they are costly. Ironicly enough they are installed against the drywall.
So much for being a fire hazard :mrgreen:
You make a good point Mr.Wilson.
The dirt and grim + coloration or staining on the ceiling are a form of ghosting…
The circulation of air that revolves around the heating core draws the atmospheric grim or staining.
Splits in the wood **could **be due to aging and loose of oils in the wood due to the heating systems proximity to the joists. I can not conclude just through the pic’s myself.
Its location ( system )is due to some problem or expence.
Doing a floor install and the unwillingness to spend extra money to do it right.
They overcame by doing a upper install of the heating system.
Small fans can be installed to project the heat in the proper direction. Small upgrade. Easy job and can be done to give a retro look.
It looks like it was installed after the basement was finished in wood.
The expense of doing a plumbing retro fit would have been costly.
That’s what I see.
Yupp! These usually operate in the 120-140*F range.
What in the world is happening in this org we have Grocery Stock boys gas station attendants as Hi’s and CMI"s trying to burn homes down with a heating water distribution pipe. God sure must love Idiots he made a bunch of them:shock::shock:
Why insult?
Maybe there was something in proximity of the piping that caused alarm.
It was someone raising a question and others learning.
The fire theory was lost but everything else was a valid question.
He was stretching for answers to cover every angle.
Simply stated common sense has gone out the window inexperienced people trying to do work they are not qualified to perform. I have seen questions like what side of the faucet is hot water suppose to be connected.
HI’s have been beat over the head by schools and many on this BB that every client is going to sue them that it has become the point of ridiculous