Getting started
I was inspecting my exterior air conditioning system for this class and wanted to try a rule of thumb practice for determining size/cooling capacity i.e.“Take the RLA amp number and divide it by 6 to 8 (or 5, if the compressor is a newer model). That result will be a good guess of the proper tonnage.” against the information provided on the label and what I could find on the web from the manufacturer. In this case the Manufacturer Payne provided 46000 BTUs or roughly 4 Ton. This is what I recorded off the label: Model PA13NR048-J Min circuit Amps 26.7. There was no Max Amps/RLA on the label or stamped anywhere on the Unit. Am I looking in the wrong place for the RLL?
Max amp (Max fuse/breaker) is on the label lower left. I can’t read to tell if RLL is there.
The insulation in the attic is R11 which is well below the recommended R38. On the gable ends there is no insulation and is not air tight. I Recommended Insulating and sealing the gable ends and blowing in more insulation to achieve R38 value.
This is a home that I inspected that had a newer boiler system installed. The home was originally built in the late 1800’s. There had been renovations, and the radiator system was upgraded with the new boiler, and the kitchen upgrade included in floor heating from the same boiler.
The two articles I read were Solar Heat-Gain Coeficient Rattings for Windows, and Radiant Heating. These were very informative articles. I didn’t know anything about Solar Heat-Gain Co-efficiant rattings in windows prior to this course, and this article really helped me understand it.
Inspection of original electric water heater from 1992. Checking the upper and lower thermostats and making an adjustment down from 145 degrees.
Temperature adjusted to 125 degrees to help save electricity.
Also recommend a blanket for unit as it is in the garage space.
10 Easy Ways to Save Money & Energy in Your Home:
Today we have more electronic devices for our personal enjoyment than ever before. Count how many chargers, and TVs, Blue Rays, cordless phones, Cable boxes that are left plugged in all the time.
These “Vampires” are constantly costing money as they sit in ready mode.
When not in use un plug these extra drains on your wallet…
Dryer Vent Safety:
Part of the ventilation system often seen installed incorrectly in Florida homes.
25 is the totality of the length to termination. Less for 90 and 45 degree turns.
Often left unattached to roof vent when appliance is vented through unconditioned space upward.
I have chosen to discuss something a little different for this course.
The item I have today for discussion is a “Jump Duct”. These ducts are basically connections from one room to another to help return air get back to the air handler. They keep room from becoming pressurized when doors are closed.
A simple test to confirm is to close the door to the room and see if a single sheet of toilet tissue will cling to the grill with the HVAC system running. Then slowly open the door and see if it falls. You will also typically have the same size grill on the outside of the door and should feel some airflow when the door is closed and none when the door is open.
This is a simple item that you can point out to clients to help them understand the workings of their new home.
Reading and writing assignment
Blower Door Testing
by Nick Gromicko and Ethan Ward
Blower doors are used by for many purposes but their primary use in residential homes are to test for the energy efficiency of a home. This is done by installing the unit temporarily in a door frame and activating the fan to change the pressure in the home. Leaks in the building envelope can then be more easily spotted when used in combination with the other proper tools like a infrared camera.
Composting Toilet Inspection
by Nick Gromicko
Well here is something you do not hear about everyday!
While not very popular in the United States they have been commercially sold for more than 30 years, starting in Sweden. The end result is the Humus which can be used to fertilize trees and landscapes.
Hello all,
Attached is a photo of a single pane clear glass window. This low grade bare bones type window, installed in areas of extreme temperature (far south or far north) regions are a real concern for energy loss. There are multiple reasons for these type window inefficiencies. In very hot regions, the type window in the picture has a SHGC and SC around 1, which equates to considerable heat gains introduced in the buildings envelope. Additionally, these type windows typically have poor seals which also contribute to heat gains. The replacement of these type windows, though an expensive upgrade, should pay for itself and improve comfort in more ways than one over the life of the replacement windows.
Hello all,
The articles I chose to read for this assignment are, Building Cavities Used as Supply or Return Ducts and Attic Pull-Down Ladders. Building Cavities Used as Supply or Return Ducts was of interest to me because of its common practice especially in older homes. This practice could be of health concern due to the potential for mold formation. This practice also can lead to significant energy loss and could aid in accelerated fire damage in the event of a fire. Attic Pull-Down Ladders are of concern for energy loss primarily due to the typical lack of insulation and sealing of the attic pull down ladder. The typical lack of insulation/sealing and lack of fire resistant material incorporated into the attic pull-down ladder is of concern when installed in a garage and is the most common compromise of a fire break between the garage and living space when installed in a garage.
Did an inspection recently that had just had three new central units installed. The house was divided into three zones. The insulation had also been previously replaced and all the recessed lighting had been converted to LED. The home appeared to be pretty energy efficient. I was still able to find many leaks in the home and noticed the homeowner of this while i was performing my inspection. I realized that a lot of contractors are just interested in the dollars rather than actually helping make the home more energy efficient…
I read articles on Energy Efficiency in the home. There was lots of good information on the little things that the average homeowner can do to improve their carbon footprint and save energy. Things as small as lightbulbs and a few tubes of caulking…
This is in regards to the Inspection and writing assignment for the “Inspecting HVAC Energy Efficiency” course.
The inspection of an HVAC system should include the combustion gas ventilation. I find that the majority of the systems inspected by licensed HVAC contractors do not include the climbing of the roof for the inspection of the combustion gas flue and rain cap.
A picture with this writing assignment is of the rain cap of a combustion gas flue that has been damaged from hail. The damage did not allow complete ventilation of combustion gases. A receipt from a licensed HVAC contractor was on the kitchen counter, proudly displayed by the owner, as having the furnace addressed before my inspection.
This is in regards to the reading and writing assignment for the “Inspecting HVAC Energy Efficiency” course.
I’ve chosen the topic of housewrap from the following article:
The important part of the article is the climate. In colder climates, housewrapping would not be beneficial because of the retention of moisture from inside the house during the colder periods, which could cause indoor air quality problems and also affecting the HVAC systems to use more energy.
This is in regards to the reading and writing assignment for the “Inspecting HVAC Energy Efficiency” course.
I’ve chosen the article about:
It’s been a long time since I’ve inspected a house with a gravity furnace. The article is good for the inspector because of the multiple issues for this type of heating system.
An issue that is addressed in the article is asbestos. I would address the identification of asbestos as “an asbestos-like” substance on the ductwork. Until testing confirms that it is what it is, I wouldn’t say it is.
First attached picture is of an exterior wall that has insulation on the ban board between joists. This is a good idea, but the insulation has several gaps, and at least four foot of the exterior wall is above grade, and should be insulated also.
Second picture is of gas line that is running to the outside through the exterior wall. The hole around the pipe has been sealed with foam to stop airflow out.
The third picture is of a furnace with metal tape sealing the joints. The tape looks fairly new, while the ducts look original to the house. The original install was most likely left with several gaps that lost heat and A/C from the supply ducts.
Article review for Conserve Energy and Save Money:
Good article for consumers to read. There are several tasks a homeowner can do, in an older home to increase its efficiency. Sealing all holes that go outside the building envelope, adding insulation properly, making sure return air, and supply vents are not blocked or covered, and simply changing to fluorescent bulbs. Good quality fluorescent bulbs can be costly to purchase all at once. I recommend to homeowners to buy them as there incandescent bulbs burn out.
Article review for Residential Foundation Insulation:
Good answers to commonly asked questions on risks, and potential problems caused insulation a foundation wall. Most older homes in my area do not have any insulation in the basements. Recommend to at least seal around windows, and doors for for leakage, and insulate any basement wall that is above grade to 36" below the exterior grade.