So basically you don’t care if the unit is performing as the MFG intended. Technically Exhaustive Should have nothing to do with the operation of this piece of equipment it either operates as the MFG intended or it does not. How does one know AMP meter. Just because some desk jocky that wrote the SOP did not have enough knowledge about proper operation of a heat HP does not make it right
Joe you have been doing HI’s for a long time now and I believe you know the SOP is just the minimum required to perform just as building Codes are the minimum requirements for a builder. I see HI’s slamming builders all the time for constructing homes to minimum codes and then they turn around and inspect to SOP the minimum standards for HI’s.
Sounds like you have R410 units since the house is only two years old and those temps are typical.
I have lots of testing experience with these.
I have owned two heat pumps with R410 for 9 years now, one is a 3 ton and the other a 3.5 ton. Both have the same type variable speed air handlers with 10kw strips in each. Also have the outside temperature sensor option so I can program the aux heat strips to stay off unless its really cold out. The defrost mode still kicks on the aux heat during the 1-2 minute cycle to knock off the chilled air.
These R410 units are awesome, the supply air will vary depending on the outside temperature. Properly sized, they will heat a properly insulated house with no aux strips running down to the low 20’s or even below in some cases.
I can see where a miswired unit could be overlooked and you could have aux heat running when it should not (costs 3 times more to heat with electric strips than R410 system). With outside temp at 55 and heat pump and aux heat running you could see supply air above 130 easy, but depends on the size of the aux strips installed.
Since my variable speed units were a new thing in 2001, the installer wired them wrong. They worked ok but made some weird very high speed fan cycles during defrost mode. The airhandlers have several jumper settings for comfort modes and efficiency modes etc so I eventually took the 4 pages of system wiring options up there and figured it out. They were wired as basic air handlers instead of variable speed types.
One of the things I write up on new homes is the lack of labeling on the airhandler cabinet to indicate which size aux heat kit is installed.
Another difference with R410 is the presence of a little more ice on the outside unit before the defrost kicks in than you might be used to seeing on the old R22 systems, not a problem. The outside units typically have a jumper adjustment to choose the total run time between defrost cycles.
I think mine came set for 45 minutes and I changed it to defrost a little sooner.
Charley, I know about how a heat pump ought to feel because I have one. If it’s blowing hot air, I’m not too concerned and will let the HVAC guy pick the system apart with a fine tooth comb during his annual inspection (I recommend a full HVAC eval. prior to closing also). If the system is blowing air below 80 deg. in aux. mode with the outdoor coil off, I question the functionality of the heat strip(s) and refer it out. But if it’s blowing warm air, I’m not taking the cabinet apart (especially not in a hot attic).
I don’t check refrigerant pressure either and I’m sure the MFG has a standard for what that out to be. If they want a technically exhaustive inspection, I offer one for $10,000 and allow them to pay at closing also.
There are a number of things that can cause the temp. to be this high but with out the heat strips working none of them are good. I suspect your thermostate is miss wired. I find some heat strips come on with just 2 degree change at the thermostate. Try turning it up 1 degree and see what happens.
If you perport to know anything about HVAC you know that under “any” test conditions that a dry bulb temperature differential can tell you “nothing” about how the equipment is operating!
The unit was “starving” because of the low ambient conditions.
Simple “matter-of-fact”.
Don’t know if 1st reply was sent. So… I am a cunsumer. I am looking to replace a heat pump system. My question re: the air handler. Today’s options include a multi- or variable speed handler. This was not a choice available 30 yrs ago when current handler was installed. Single speed handler is either on/off depending on whether compressor is running. My understanding is the multi or variable speed motor will run continuously (although at varying speeds), & thus use varying amounts of electricity. Is the multi/variable speed handler less efficient in the use of electricity? I know when single speed is on, it will run at higher speed, but by being off at times may actually cost less. I am told the variable/multi speed handler makes the HVAC experience more comfortable. Am I worrying about pennies or nickles here, or is it a reasonable question and concern in my purhcase decision? I am new to the group. Power company could give me no help on this. I hope you all can. Thanx
Jay :roll:
