OK, this is something that has stumped me,

I have a inline J R smith flood control


It is F***ked from having not been maintained in probably 20+ years , the top of the housing where the shaft protrudes from is unattached, the screw threads are rusted out so when it rains the pit backs up with sewer water What i need to know is :

What can i do without breaking up concrete to update, repair, trick out, the thing?

has anyone dealt with this before?

how would u call it out on a report, and what would you suggest?

Remove the old and re thread.
You can always re thread Joe.
Why would you need to break concrete?
Got a real picture?

If the valve body is still pretty intact, and you can get the inside of the valve out (top works) you should be able to rebuild the valve. You might ask a local plumber familiar with that particular valve.

its like a sump pit deep- ive had plumbers suggest removal of the unit which would necessitate breaking concrete.

I THOUGH THE SAME THING, : Clean it out, re thread it with a tap or helicoil it…
BUT In this case,it is so rusted and there is 20 plus years of neglect and water working on it , i would be really surprised if someone were able to helicoil it
I don’t think there is enough material to do it- too much muck and sewage debris to see it clear.

i tried once to remove the thing- it seemed stuck and i didn’t want to be left with a open sewer in my basement

I did not force the threads because it is a huge brass threaded peice tnhat is upwards of 400 bucks to replace- so if it isnt broke now i was afraid to bust it.

I wonder if i can remove the assembly an temporarily cap it?

Plumber time

Joe I know the best plumbers in your area and they are priced reasonable.
Give me a call.

Thanks Bob, i already have a great plumber.
Its the actual part that is made of brass that is costly- can get around that one, its just expensive.

I understand $$$
My little B&G pump for the miniature boiler downstairs (my office) is humming like a man using a shaver.
I turn it off when I need silence.
Yes I put in some 3 in one.

Now i’ve also heard that there is a special tool, kinda like a clutch hub puller, that is required to dismantle it.

Has anyone dismantled one before?

Stop goofing around Joe and find a plumber that is familiar with that valve.

:oThanks Brian, your right, it is time to contact my plumber. I am not inclined to mess with it any more.
If i had found this during an inspection, i would suggest a plumber evaluate.

I was just hoping some one experienced the same problem and could share some info on this kind of flood control system. - how to update, what happens when the plumber comes over… costs etc.

AH, after inviting a few plumbers to check it out and researching it , i have finally gotten the valve open!!! Here are some pics to show what happens when these are not maintained right on a regular schedule.

one is a view of the opening in which the valve slides down on guides and stops back flow.
the other is of the actual gate itself - threaded off the bolt.

here is a pic of the guide rails-inside the valve body, look closely

and also a pic of the work space i have…

here is the top plate top view and bottom view - this should be bolted to valve housing. but there were no bolts and threads are rusted worn- it will definitely need a tap.

the threaded through bolt and a pic of the gate - different aspect
again i need to stress that this is a valve that had not had any opening and closing for a loong time, I hear from qualified handlers of this stuff that they need to be excersized 1- 2 times a year.