The surface location of the low-e coating plays an important role in solar performance. Optimal performance can be achieved when low-e coatings are applied to mumber -two surface of a unit of insulating glass.
Heat Gain
The surface designation of the coating is extremely important for controlling heat transfer.
By placing the coating on the number-two surface of the insulating unit, one can reduce the amount of gain.
Surface choice
When a coating is moved from the number-two surface to the number-three surface, the shading coefficient will increase. This will cause passive soar heat gain_sometimes dramatically.
I suppose it depends on the depth that your moisture meter can read. Mine is a Protimeter Surveymaster. On a double glazed window I can tell which glass has the coating but you are correct that I would not be able to tell which side of a single peice of glass its on. So I can tell if the unit has been construted for warm or cold climates.
In the unlikely event that the window was constructed wrong with the coating on either of the exposed sides, unless its a newer window, its probably warn off by now anyway in which I would get no reading on either side.
For home inspectors I just can’t see the point of buying another tool esp. when your moisture meter (if its pinless) can do the same thing and in addition this being beyond any SOP.
Different climates and styles of homes require different glazing options to maximize their energy efficiency. Some glazing options can also help reduce outdoor traffic noise from entering the home. Options range from single glazed glass, as in historic homes (minimal insulating value), up to R10, which features dual-sealed, triple-insulated glass with two Low E surfaces and two krypton/argon gas-filled insulated airspaces for maximum efficiency.
If low-e is present it will max out. Just like if you put it on the palm of you hand. If there is no low-e it just reads normal like any dry wall would. Try it on your own windows
Other pinless meters would work as well.
