6th picture.
A rusty tape measure and a low spot on chimney cap
A mortar wash chimney cap and a tape I can’t read and no sealant around the flue for expansion and water intrusion.
This cap will start falling apart in a few years.
Bob has a nice graphic.
Bob, can I save that one?
Sure it is fine with me (may have gotten it here) but please help me out on my recent post.
Nobody has replied as of yet and I am leaving but will check from my phone.
Sorry Bob, never seen anything like it.
This is generally installed to separate apartment floors. I have never seen it either for this application. I would think that in this application you would need a signed off engineers plan. That being said if it is damaged it no longer has the support for the garage to have a vehicle in it.
Pics are from Carson Dunlop.
I’ve attached one of a garage floor not like yours though, and it reads to be very careful.
Cars are very heavy, an SUV can weight 3-4 Tons…
The element labeled “capillary break” is actually known as a “drip” or “drip check”.
That appears to be a poured-in-place concrete chimney cap but it is poorly designed and finished. There is no slope on its top to shed water; not at least 2 inches overhang of the brick to shed water; probably no drip check on the too small overhang; does not appear to have “bondbreaker” between flue and poured-in-place cap so that the flue can expand (when hot) independently of the supporting brick/cap structure, and as mentioned, no caulking at flue to preventy water entry.
Not to stir up trouble but can you tell me where this comes from. In all info on HI I have never found it called a “Drip Check” or “Drip” Is this a masonry term?
CSA standard **A405- Design and construction of masonry chimneys and fireplaces **(figure 2- chimney cap construction details)and Wett manual, page 14 of Masonry chimney requirements
http://www.housing.gov.bc.ca/pub/bulletins/B_08_02_Capillary_Break_Rainscreen.pdf
There is some materials here and many on the web about what a capillary break is and what materials can be used.
http://www.blackmagik.ca/5cs.html
Not the best work done in these two videos but the essential basics are there
And how not to do it right and then broadcast yourself
Bob and Marcel
Thanks for your input.
· The cap is flat poured in place, with 2 water pooling areas due to an incorrect, non slope to accommodate water runoff, and a non conforming 2” overhang to include a drip curf and no expansion joint and proper sealant detail at flue liner and poured cap. All leading to premature failure and water intrusion.
· Many mortar joints within the 3 courses of brick just below the replacement areas above having numerous issues, should have been included in rebuild. Now leaving the upper work subject to poor support due to the bad mortar joints, not to mention water entry points. All leading to premature failure and water intrusion.
· Inconsistent sized mortar joints and many exceeding the maximum recommended size of 3/8” . Having noted the different sizing in the brick widths 8” original to 7-1/2” rebuild, resulting in different course appearances the upper rows now include a odd sized spacer brick in each course. Result in premature mortar failure and water intrusion as a result.
· As for the rusty tape , just can’t toss it yet.
Is ther any comment on the use of the under sized brick and irregular and over sized mortar joints?
Do you have a picture of the chimney so we can help on that question?
Hard to see when we only see the top of the cap. Looked like a mortar wash to me the way it was sloppy.
Some type of bricks come in both 7-3/4" and 8", and mixing them up in a running bond that is only 30+/-" is not conducive to a good job outcome.
There’s more here.
Here is a cross section that pretty much shows all talked about.
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And you can check out this CAD drawing of a typical chimney cap here;
http://www.aecinfo.com/1/resourcefile/06/95/23/default69523_1.html
Chimney caps not properly done will look like this or cause this.
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