Metal roof framing

I had a house today with metal framing. I was not impressed. Sheathing was coming loose all over the place, which was also seen outside where the shingles were buckling in straight lines 4 ft up and down or 8 ft across where edges of sheathing were lifting up.
In the attic I observed that the roofers had used their standard nails to attach plywood sheathing to the metal framework. It is my understanding that only screw should be used with metal framing. But I have not built with metal before. My research on google did not turn up much.

Anyone here have experience using metal instead of wood for attic structure?
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From what I could find online, only screws are to be used with steel framing, not nails, which seems like common sense to me.


It looks to me like this roof was installed on a monday following a NASCAR weekend.

Looks like they missed the framing with the screws.
Here is a link for future reference if you need it.


And for attaching plywood to metal studs we always used these wafer head tek screws.
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SD150-2450-9326_5e868c5f-a641-49b8-96b3-5ad2ca906c8d_1024x1024

We also had one of these which was a lot more productive.
https://etf-fastening.com/etf_en/tools/coil-nailers/model-510.html

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For sure, and the sheathing doesn’t align over the C channel

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Bert, please post of what it looked like from the outside. Thanks!

Yes, screws are to be used because there is not enough material around a nail when nailed into thin sheet of metal to provide enough pull out strength especially long-term as things move and the holes around the nail get looser.

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If that was down here a CAT1 hurricane would eat the structure.

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Marcel, the actually used nails, not screws. Nails in a dozen sheets of sheathing are already pulling out and pushing up on shingles. Crazy. They needed a screw gun like you had.

They make a special nail for installing plywood to metal studs with these guns. I’ve used them in the past and they don’t pull out.
At the very least, they could of at least center the plywood joints on the framing and used those wafer head tek screws. Hard to tell what they used, but obviously needs repair by the appropriate tradesman.

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Not a big fan of residential metal framing. All to often it’s improperly installed. Not enough fasteners. Poor connections, etc. Here’s one I came upon last year. It’s a crawlspace photo of metal used in a basement sub-floor. Excessive moisture caused the OSB to buckle and forced the metal to buckle/fail.

Elliott Home Inspections, Inc.
4965 Twin Lakes Rd Unit 66
Boulder, CO 80301
Mobile: 720-218-8139
www.Elliott-HomeInspections.com
service@elliott-homeinspections.com

Just looking at that picture, I would say it is the wrong gauge framing also.

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Here is a view of the exterior if the roof. You can see where sheathing is lifting

I bet most insurance companies would have trouble insuring that home.

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And I sure hope there is a warranty on the work for the home. This is going to be a costly fix.

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My buyer decided not to get the house. He is shopping for another and he says he will definitely get me to inspect the next one.
The roof leak into the front wall going all the way down to the hardwood floor in the dining room was the big issue.
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Relationship building trust…and the word spreads. You want Bert from Knoxville Engineered Home Inspections!

Good on ya, Bert! :grinning:

Gold nuggets are around here…just sidestep/ignore the turds. LOL

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deal Killer :grin: :grin: :grin:

I try to find at least two major defects on every inspection. If the first unfixable defect doesn’t kill the deal, I have a back-up life threatening defect to put the client on the path to a second inspection fee on a different house. It’s called cash flow.

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That was a joke.

Why only 2?

The rest consume unneccesary time.

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:wink: