Had a new Construction Insp. today and the concrete contractor had misplaced a basement window (locating it under the stairs). Rather useless there. He is moving by pouring a fill in the misplaced window and cutting new window where it should have been in the first place. My question is ‘should this patch have rebar to hold it in place. and what is the chance of leakage around the new pour’?
Thanks in advance.
I vote yes for rebar and good for cold joint leakage.
If the old opening is sealed properly with mortar, it should be all set if there’s no grading behind it.
No, it does not need rebar. Rebar is only used to prevent displacement or cracking of massive areas.
It really depends on the design specifications of the wall, but the simple answer is yes, the “patch” should have rebar as well.
Things to consider, however, are the wall thickness, the size of the opening and whether or not the opening was properly “trimmed” during original construction. By that, I’m referring to the additional rebar required around openings in concrete and CMU walls. Generally, openings require additional vertical and horizontal steel at the edges, and diagonal steel at the corners.
So the real answer to your question will be found in the structural drawings. Look for a detail showing wall openings.
In “real” construction, the contractor would never get away with just “cutting a new opening” in the concrete for the window. There is a proper way to do it, and that’s not it.
Jeff is correct. Filling in an opening in an existing foundation will require to drill, epoxy or install re-bar with grout to reinforce the opening and also provide a waterstop if below grade.
The size of the opening will make a difference to the approach of the remedial repair and should be engineered by a structural expert on such repairs.
Cutting openings in a new foundation will no doubt sever the only top bars in a residential foundation and weaken the wall.
Proper remedial repairs should be instituted and not left up to the Foundation Contractor to determine what is adequate or not.
If this is a new construction, the Contractor should take proper steps in correcting assisted by the designer.
Marcel 
Answers to variables 1. Wall is 8" thick. 2. Size is standard basement window. Open (original) was trimmed properly. New opening was simply cut with a 12" masonary saw. They were ready to pour when I got there. At that time Client had not arrived so I was unable to stop the work (not that I really could have). By the time I left original mistake was poured and new hole was cut. The drawings show a window and well at the location of the new opening. I feel that had I not been there no one would have known the mistake was made.
You should document it and move on. Let the client know that it was done in a manner contrary to the design specifications and recommend that the modifications be reviewed by the structural engineer.
BTW - What do you consider to be a “standard” size basement window?
Jeff; considering where he is from I would imagine he might be talking about standard basement windows like this area.
Standard Sizes
http://www.bilco.com/foundations/store/products/scapeview_650_1.jpg
Marcel
I have learned through the years (as I’m sure you have Marcel) that rarely is anything “standard.”
Understand what you are saying Jeff.
Well, that was standard for that Manufacturer anyways. ha. ha.
Problem is every one has their own standard.
Getting pretty hard to figure out which one to follow.
Doesn’t that sound like every Associations SOP? ha. ha.
There are a few standard heights, products that you can follow, but those are few and far between. Technology is changing to fast.
Marcel 
A hopper window never seen one on any inspections.
Would it not have been simpler to leave the window and just add another window.
… Cookie
Sorry, didn’t measure the window. My guess is 32 X 20.