NACHI's Electrical SOP is outdated

:smiley: Yup, people get this one wrong every day.

Sure seems like a home inspector with more than a weeks worth of experience should be able to distinguish builder grade smoke alarms from those connected to a security system. Hint: the ones on the security system are found only in the hallways 99% of the time. Frequently right beside the standard alarm.

What is the difference between smoke alarms and smoke detectors?

Smoke alarms are self-contained, single or multiple-station smoke-sensing devices typically found in homes.
Smoke detectors are smoke-sensing devices that are not self-contained. They operate as an interconnected system and are sometimes monitored remotely. Smoke detectors are commonly found in hotels, hospitals and in other commercial or industrial applications.

Yep, and that isn’t going to do you a lot of good in a fire when your bedroom door is closed.

I have disclaimers in my report right up front in big bold red letters that I do not test smoke or CO2 units because it is the responsibility of the current owner to call the local fire department and have them come out and inspect each unit and to tell the home owner where they should be placed. This is mandatory for the Certificate of Occupancy and it is part of the closing.

No CoO, no deal.

Do they know that Smoke Detectors are not in homes? They are actually Smoke Alarms found in residential homes. Maybe Florida’s SOP also needs updating.

Personally (my opinion) is all Smoke Alarms should be tested to at lease ascertain their function. If they are truly Smoke Alarms then they are not complicated, simply press and listen…very simple process.

In regards to NACHI’s SOP…I would eat that up in court as any other SOP because the judge doesn’t care about what an SOP says about testing when someone dies. They will ask did you test them and an expert will stand up and say why you should have tested them.

Great info, as usual Paul.
THANKS! :slight_smile:

My alarm system is supposed to have a heat sensor but that’s another story.

In NJ, the seller is required to get a fire cert before they can sell.

Two times this week I inspected 30+ year old houses with cathedral or vaulted ceilings that would likely have required a 19’ extension ladder to get to the ceiling where the smoke alarm was located … NOT something we’re gonna try to drag thru their house and set up.

We use the following statement along with the information we did not operate the alarms AND why (fire truck, etc).

And you yourself don’t get it right, as 99% (your number) of the units you are describing are actually DETECTORS not ALARMS!

And then there are the new Blutooth devices…

Again ALARMS are self alarming while DETECTORS send a signal to a central system that triggers a separate alarm function. In residential homes a smoke alarm is hard wired to the electrical system, operates at 120V and is self alarming. If the home has a smoke detector then it will be low low voltage (under 50 volts) and interconnected to a monitoring system. It may or may not have an internal alarm function but since it is triggered by the monitoring system then it is a detector.

When my uncle built his new house the electrician put a smoke alarm in the very center of a “great room” with incredibly high vaulted ceilings. To change the battery he had to get a hydraulic lift in his living room (one time before he moved the alarm.) Maybe we should all have a hydraulic lift for our inspections.

But on a serious note, how about a house with 10’ ceilings, do I setup a ladder at every alarm to reach it if my dowel won’t trigger the alarm?

Does your SOP require you to test them? If so, use some type of product that the professionals use:

CRC 2105 Smoke Test Brand Liquid Smoke Detector Tester, 2.5 oz Aerosol Can, Clear: Fire Alarm Test Spray: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Actually I think some of our inspectors must be new or under educated.

When I push the button on a some detector or alarm (90% of our clients call the detectors) … I know it makes a noise and if they’re interconnected if they’re that type AND what else do I know … Do I know IF they’ll go off with smoke?

Thats why when I was on a standards writing committee about 30-31 yrs ago for another association WHY we said the inspector was NOT REQUIRED to do this.

BUT if you want to … knock your socks off and do it.

If a FHA or a VA loan requires it (smoke alarms to be tested with button) then it should be in our SOP if readily accessible.

James … Not sure what you mean??

I’m a FHA Compliance Inspector and 203k Inspector and never had a lender or HUD question the comment I posted previously. See Below

Safety Recommendation Upon Move In and On A Regular Basis: The National Fire Protection Association states smoke alarms should be changed if more than 10 years old and in our opinion you should ensure all units are present then test all units a day before taking occupancy and then monthly thereafter according to manufacturer’s instructions. **Current safety standards state smoke alarms should be at all sleeping rooms; on each level of the building (including basement or crawlspace); at any equipment room; on ceilings or high on walls. **

Batteries should be replaced every 6 months or sooner if a smoke alarm “chirps,” indicating a low battery. Smoke alarms should be replaced every 10 years, even those hard-wired, or labeled “long life” 10-year battery-types. We suggest installing these at any above areas without one.

Current safety standards recommend a CO-monitor outside each sleeping area or any equipment rooms without one.

That product/method wouldn’t test for CO.

Yep. I don’t know of any association or state SOP that requires you to do it or prohibits you from doing it. So like Dan says… knock your socks off.