couple of pictures from my commercial inspection and IR Scan. The images are tuned and you can see them clearly. These are straight form my camera and not tuned through my computer yet. A little more work to do before finishing the report and sending them out.
David, get some training for IR. When I started out I bought a camera and thought I had the bull by the horns. My franchise was offering level 1 through Scott Hood so I figured I would take it. Holy crap was I ever wrong. Scott is extremely knowledgeable and taught me the difference between have the camera and using the camera. If you hear of home teaching a course in your area you need to go and take it.
I was referring to brick veneer and wall assembly R value.
I have a PDF somewhere with varying veneer R values.
Only insulation I have seen from remodeling cupboard is ten test with tar paper barrier. >< 5R per ten test sheet 1/2" sheet with moisture barrier or saturated bitumen. I am sure Mr. Cyr would have better information then myself.
We aren’t calculating R-Values. I have no clue where you are trying to go with this. We are looking at walls and ceilings, both of which are almost surely going to have fiberglass batt insulation (we know that the ceiling does). Materials that comprise the layers over the interior and exterior surfaces of the framing aren’t really relevant to these thermal images. I don’t care what has been installed over the framing. My assessment after viewing the images is that the wall cavities ARE insulated and I explained why the images show that the wall cavities are insulated. If you still feel that they are not, please explain the methodology that you used to arrive at that determination based on the posted images.
I have to go with Chuck on this one. The walls are insulated and the studs are showing warmer on the thermal image due to bridging. The brick veneer is secondary and has little to do with the image. If you look at the image of the wall with the ladder against it in my pictures, the studs look cooler (in fact they are) because it was -16°C outside and +16°C inside. The entire reason I was at the building was to address why it was cold in the building. It turned out that the roof top unit was not producing enough heat but they thought it may be uninsulated walls. I was able to prove with thermal imagery that they were in fact insulated.
If this is the outside wall, the studs should be cooler. Studs transfer heat faster than insulated stud bays.
The temp differential between studs and bays is only about 0.1C.
It looks like the studs (which are cooler than the AI) are getting their heat from the interior. I would have to question if there is in face insulation in the walls.
Note: the focus of the scan is really bad and I can not rely on actual temps. But quantitative observations say no insl. They also say significant air stratification in the building between ceiling and floor (about 3.0 C).
I can only comment on what you give us.
Sorry for the poor narratives.
It will be improved shortly.
Could you explain what David A is pertaining to, explaining, in post # 27?
“It looks like the studs (which are cooler than the AI) are getting their heat from the interior. I would have to question if there is in face insulation in the walls.”
I do not understand the term, in face insulation.
Both images are taken while the outside/unconditioned space is substantially colder than the interior space. Now look at the themal relationship of the wall surface directly over framing with the wall area between framing members. You will notice that David’s image shows that the wall surface over the framing is cooler than the spaces in between (this is a typical image of an insulated wall/ceiling where the interior is warmer than the exterior). Greg’s image shows an inverse relationship where the wall surface over the framing is warmer than the spaces in between (this is a typical image of an uninsulated wall where the interior is warmer than the exterior).
The wall in David’s image is insulated, while the wall in Greg’s image is not insulated. The David Macy image is normal, while Greg’s image is an exception.
That is an invitation I need to jump on as you have always been someone I have looked up to and I could probably learn more in a few hours then I have learned so far. You and Dave A are a resource of knowledge.
Here are a few picks on a house with a B dry system.
Temperature was 15 degrees, sunny and wall faced SE. Time was morning about 11.
Seepage noted above panels, vertical crack at the SE corner and most likely below grade and causing the seepage. The finished the walls and I believe they maybe concealing damaged structure.
In the IR pics how can you determine if there is moisture. The walls was recently painted and the camera was set to matt.
A couple more of the south wall. Do these guys ever correct the exterior conditions contributing to the water? I hate inside systems. There is seepage below this window in the basement.
It’s very difficult to discern moisture from cold air this time of year. However, based on the patterns in your images and the visible light photos, I would say that you have indeed documented active moisture intrusion. The inside con-tractors never solve the problem… especially when it comes to block wall foundations. I write hard on those based on my experience of observing further deterioration and failure of the foundation due to continued hydrostatic pressure and water infiltration.
Boys and girls, THIS is how you ask a question on a message board!!!***
Give us something to work with inside and out…
Dave, my next step would to dig up the downspout on the outside.
As for determining moisture, It looks like and acts like moisture. Adding heat to the cold spot (hair dryer etc) will make the cold spot get colder before it gets hotter. You need to talk to me on the phone on this. I did an 1 1/2 hour clinic at Flir on just this. Complicated.
I would just dig and find the obvious source. Thermal shows location and extent of area affected. You really don’t need anything more in a HI.
Boys and girls, THIS is how you ask a question on a message board!!!***
Give us something to work with inside and out…
Dave, my next step would to dig up the downspout on the outside.
As for determining moisture, It looks like and acts like moisture. Adding heat to the cold spot (hair dryer etc) will make the cold spot get colder before it gets hotter. You need to talk to me on the phone on this. I did an 1 1/2 hour clinic at Flir on just this. Complicated.
In this case you have a heat source in a basement, so you can see stuff well. Beware, not all basement conditions will show you this much. You must cause a “temperature transition” by adding heat. The dryer vent will work.
I would just dig and find the obvious source. Thermal shows location and extent of area affected (at the time of inspection). The visual shows historical conditions. You really don’t need anything more in a HI.
We are talking about things you do in an IR inspection, not a home inspection. You can follow up for twice the HI fee after getting clearance from the owner. This gives you time to get Bill W. in there.
The b-dry system may be causing the problem several ways.
You may need to look at this from a different perspective when using IR.
The crack is not causing seepage. The seepage (site drainage - bdry system ect.) caused the crack.
B-Dry, Easy Breathe, Dehumidifiers all cause problems when not used properly.
In this case, they are trying to meditate a water issue from the interior. By removing water, it causes more water to take it’s place unless they address the “source” on the exterior. Moisture passing threw the wall is a greater concern than water “against” the wall. The system is pulling it threw the wall. All they are doing is pumping water so it doesn’t pool up in the basement.
