If you haven’t figured it out yet, we can not fix you from here.
Get out your check book and I will come fix you…
As Forrest would say, “That’s all I have to say about that…”!
That is interesting. So the only communication between the living space and the “suspected source material” in the attic is the bathroom exhausts.
Fire up your water heater, furnace, range hood and dryer but not the bathroom exhaust fan. See if air is being drawn into the home thru the bath exhaust and bringing your dusty “source material” with it. (your exhaust duct could even me lying atop or embedded in cellulose)
Also, cellulose can be pretty dusty when installed. So those airborne particles could continue to be circulated inside the home even after the dust has settled in the attic. Also, check and make sure your attic hatch is sealed pretty good.
My response to your reply can be nothing other than…
“I may not be a smart (wo)man, but I know what a Jerk is!”
My checkbook just slammed shut.
Thank you,
Michelle Castile
608-415-7068
Hello,
The attic hatch has not been sealed correctly since they had completed their work here. They did add something to the other side of the sillbox in the attic, an insulation material. Which made them change the entire board which encloses it from the house, and surprise surprise not sealed as it should be.
The bathfan gets very dusty, requiring cleaning it frequently. I even saw water collecting on the grate that is on the ceiling a couple times but it didn’t last long and had stopped. I did snap a photo of this, although it’s hard to see exactly what I had seen that day.
The dust has continued, and I suspect my dryer more and more these days. I’m currently about to spend tax return funds on a new machine since there is definitely something amiss with why clothing are so hot taking them out of the dryer. That will certainly give me some answers if that is the culprit!
One question that is likely not relevant at all but has me a bit confused as I’m reading different things…is it normal to have mold growth on my water filter that is located in a housing type of thing connected to my water pressure tank? This tank and piping was replaced last year. What should I be checking, if anything? We had never seen this previously upon changing it, which the last time was around 2 months ago. Photos attached of my explanations. The dryer duct is above it if that could be the culprit, although I’m not certain how that could be the case.
Thank you,
Michelle Castile
608-415-7068
You had a valuable offer ftom Mr.Anderson…obviously You really dont want a solution You just like having a problem…
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First, dryer… Clean dryer vent.
Second… Extend your bathroom exhaust to the exterior.
Third. Seal your attic.
Fourth. I don’t see mold. But if you do, clean it off.
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Hello,
I didn’t see an offer from his comment of “fixing me” as he stated. If its a legit offer I’m of course open to that. It did not sound that way to me at all.
Michelle Castile
608-415-7068
I’ve read this entire thread and am exhausted !. Somebody missed something here or are lying to you. I’m not as knowledgeable as most of these guys on here, but I bet if they were there they’d find it. Sometimes you don’t see the woods for the trees, I’d agree the attic insulation should have no bearing on things, you have a pressure problem caused my mechanical systems only capable of moving that much air to cause your issue. First, you shouldn’t be running your furnace fan in the on position. Second, your diagram of your HRV seems to contradict the normal in-out ducting of supply and exhaust air. Did you verify the supply and exhaust on these?, there are labels on the machine for each connection, doesn’t mean someone didn’t slip up at the factory and label wrong. You can check outside by properly following the ductwork to check the airflow at each termination point to make sure it matches the connection points. Your fuel bills may indicate a cross connection, have you measured the temp diff of the recovered air? Bear in mind these machines vary in their % of recovery, but should be at least 60-70% if working correctly. Also, were you aware these machines have pre-filters in them ? and that the cores need periodic maintenance/cleaning? It’s just like your furnace, you just don’t turn it on and ignore it. Speaking of, you shouldn’t be running this full time as you stated, it should be wired to come on when the furnace fires, else you are blowing out at least 20% of the air you just heated up ! If the filters and core are dirty ( and probably are running it constant) the efficiency goes down. So while this may help explain your high fuel/electric bills, in combination with your furnace fan on continuously, I could totally see it exacerbating a potential air leakage or connection problem which hasn’t been properly identified yet. Yes I know you said the HRV was donated after the problem started, but how long after and did the problem get worse.?…. Good luck.
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Hello,
Thank you for your thoughts. I will try to address your questions.
The supply and exhaust have been verified. At least to the extent of feeling the air blow out one end of this as it sucks air in from one side of the house and goes out the other. We used the “bag” method to do this and put a plastic bag around the areas to watch it blow up like a balloon as the air was coming out the exhaust side. It seems to be working fine in that aspect. The issues with the air quality did not get worse or better after it was installed. I did notice a difference immediately after it was installed, but then it didn’t last long and everything just stayed the same. This was professionally installed and donated by a charity from a different state after hearing of my story. I also received nearly 30 filters for this machine at no cost after the company heard my story as well. These are changed often. This is not am HRV, it’s an ERV. Which I’m told are not the same thing.
I’m currently looking into trying to obtain a whole home dehumidifier of some sort, or air scrubber perhaps. However, since this ERV didn’t seem to combat the problem as it is still on going with no definitive source, I do not know how beneficial this would ne to obtain.
I had precieved for the fan to be running constantly to be always moving air, something needed, why do you suggest this not be run 24/7?
I am attaching a photo of a test conducted to measure the air temp of the return vents. I hope that answers something regarding your questions about this.
We do have condensation that has been an issue in my ductcwork. Just this week.i was informed from an HVAC technician that this is caused by the air coming into the ducts being cooler than the air inside of the ducts. Which further explains how my air here is full of humidity and moisture. Which I had already knew of occurring. I still believe this moisture like smog has something to do with my dryer. I have yet to find a new machine I can afford and local charities won’t help due to the funds they helped with for my electric and LP bills over the past two years.
Thank you, I do appreciate the help and thoughts to this on going problem.
Michelle Castile
608-415-7068
Then you said;
So you’re going to add more water into the house? Come on…
No, I don’t think so…
If you had that humidifier like you’re talking about, maybe !!!
You know, you can quickly test and determine if that were the case. Why haven’t you had that done?
Ahh… as a former NCIS Special Agent, something is making my left ear twitch here. 
Looking at all your pictures, I see some of the best equipment and installation practices that I ever rarely saw inspecting residential property! You keep talking about things that have absolutely nothing to do with your complaints. The HRV for instance. If anything would reduce the pressure problems in the house, it would be the HRV.
Another misperception.
As Michael pointed out;
Why? Because the HVAC has the greatest ability to pressurize or depressurize your house. If there is a leak, running it 24/7 would be leaking 600% more than if on Auto.
What is this access cutout for? The duct insulation is on the inside of the duct. Looks like someone damaged it going in there. The more you have people cutting into your equipment, the more likely you will screw up a good thing. But then you’ll have something else to complain about.
I told you what you need to test for, try following directions.
Every issue you talk about can be verified or eliminated with proper testing.
That return temp pic looks like a big duct tape leak to me. Why is everyone cutting into the duct?
BTW; is that your multimeter?
Doesn’t look like any homeowner Harbor Freight tool I’ve seen! Have not come across a homeowner with a $100 meter with thermocouple to test what? Or are you working the HVAC company with your warranty service calls?
I would come up there and find your suspected problem, but I’m not a charity.
Ok, I mentioned a DEHUMIDIFIER I was looking into obtaining, not a HUMIDIFIER. Two very different appliances. So there would not be adding moisture, there would be eliminating moisture.
Again, it’s not an HRV, its an ERV.
That large access cutout was made from a duct cleaning company.
The small access hole in the other photo could be from an old drain hose perhaps from an old furnace. I did not take these photos. No, that is not my multimeter.
That is not insulation you are referring to, that is a flex duct that is connected to the ERV.
Michelle Castile
608-415-7068
[quote=“Michelle Castile, post:93, topic:226142, username:mcastile”]
Ok, I mentioned a DEHUMIDIFIER I was looking into obtaining, not a HUMIDIFIER. Two very different appliances. So there would not be adding moisture, there would be eliminating moisture.
Regardless, where are you coming up with the need for either one? Just running down the list of unsubstantiated issues?
Again, it’s not an HRV, its an ERV.
Either way, It is connected to the outdoor air source, as you indicated, which will break the vacuum you claim is a problem.
That large access cutout was made from a duct cleaning company.
Oh boy, another potential source of potential damage and duct leaks…
So, you’re asking why there is condensation on the exterior of the duct? Because they screwed up the internal insulation and the duct is getting cold.
That is not insulation you are referring to, that is a flex duct that is connected to the ERV.
I see duct tape that the thermocouple is penetrating that does not have any metal behind it.
Flex duct connected to ERV. You are seeing this area here in the previous photo.
Michelle Castile
608-415-7068
No, this!
Hello,
That is part of the flex duct and the ducting for the furnace behind it. It does appear to be what you are referring to, however it is not.
Thank you,
Michelle Castile
608-415-7068