Outlet / switch on return

Fellow Inspectors,
Any thoughts on the location of the switch and outlet on the return duct. This unit is in a condo (New construction) in the utility closet off the balcony.
The other picture is the pan drain, which was of course capped :):slight_smile:

Anatol

Anatol, I would say in the first picture there should be some conduit to protect the electrical wires if this is in a closet.
In the second picture the low voltage wires do not concern me (drip pan alarm?) but I am curious as to the capped drip pan piping.

The float switch worked as it should. The capped drain line is way beyond my understanding…
My main concern was the attached boxes on the return… A fellow inspector did not have a problem with it. Just wanted to throw it out for discussion.

Anatol

I bet the drip pan cap was some r-tard’s way of keeping the OSB dry underneath.

Is this the aux drain pan? If so there is probably a condensate line from the primary pan and the float switch is really a failure alarm for the primary pan.

I do not know why the boxes would not be allowed Anatol.

The c— allows the alarm to take the place of piping the pan drain. But I still call it out as I have seen that these floats are not adjusted or get bumped over time. Safe over sorry any time.
Inspection the other day were the aux pan was drained and had an alarm, the drain line ran uphill to a level that was above the top of the pan.
Keep your eyes peeled!

I don’t know of any requirement where auxiliary drain pan drains are necessary. This is probably a prefabricated pan and there is no place to run the drain.

The auxiliary drain pan and drain is auxiliary. The auxiliary pan switch is also auxiliary. It will protect from overflow. Yes, they do get knocked out of adjustment but then that is from people storing stuff in utility closet where it doesn’t belong. Our job is to report on what is, not what could be. But, I would mention the concerns with the client without making a major repair issue out of it.

Around here, electrical wiring must be protected with armor shielding.

Like Greg, I’m assuming thats a picture of the secondary drain pan for an AC air handler. Where needed, overflow protection for an A/H can be either a visible piped secondary drain line from the secondary pan, or a float switch in the secondary pan to shut down 24V power to the thermostat on activation (float switch pictured).

Secondary drain pans typically come with a drain connection hole pre-punched in the pan. So if the secondary float switch option is used, then the hole in the pan is plugged. They make threaded plug fittings, or you can make up you own. Perhaps there was a problem with the secondary drain line (not visible, clogged, etc.), so it was capped and the float switch installed.

As long as the float switch works, and shuts down the system when lifted without going over the top of the pan I don’t see an issue.

I don’t see an issue with the boxes attached to the ducts if they are securely attached and everything is properly grounded, as it should be in any case.

About the wiring, if you consider it “subject to physical damage” then it would need to be rigid conduit, which typically wouldn’t be done in a utility closet. However, it is considered good practice by many to run armored cable for exposed wires like that to provide some additional protection over sheathed cable (although it still wouldn’t be rated for “physical damage”).

JMO & 2-nickels … :wink:

lol…Since we NEC guys sometimes take the NEC literally…I am still waiting for someone to propose in the NEW 2008 NEC a definition of " Physical Damage" or " Subject to Physical Damage"

I hear many VERSIONS of someones idea of what physical damage is…lol…