# Painted/sealed floor framing?

**URL:** <https://forum.nachi.org/t/painted-sealed-floor-framing/191684>\
**Category:** Public Archive\
**Created:** [October 17, 2005, 12:00am UTC](https://forum.nachi.org/t/painted-sealed-floor-framing/191684 "2005-10-17T00:00:00Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 20\
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**Post date:** [October 17, 2005, 12:00am UTC](https://forum.nachi.org/t/painted-sealed-floor-framing/191684/1 "2005-10-17T00:00:00Z")

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**Originally Posted By: Steven Brewster**  
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Does anyone have any ideas why they painted this homes floor framing. The home is 6 yrs. old, no signs of fire, or significant water in the crawlspace. An addition was built on one end of the home not to long ago. Got to have been the cleanest crawlspace I have seen in a while.  
  

  
  
[Image: [http://www.nachi.org/bbsystem/usrimages/P/P10303421.JPG](http://www.nachi.org/bbsystem/usrimages/P/P10303421.JPG) ]  
[Image: [http://www.nachi.org/bbsystem/usrimages/P/P10303451.JPG](http://www.nachi.org/bbsystem/usrimages/P/P10303451.JPG) ]  

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**Post date:** [October 17, 2005, 12:00am UTC](https://forum.nachi.org/t/painted-sealed-floor-framing/191684/2 "2005-10-17T00:00:00Z")

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**Originally Posted By: jhagarty**  
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Appears to be some moisture as the nail heads on the bridging of the joists are showing corrosion thru the paint. Any disclosure to go along with the property with regard to a history of Water or Mold?  
  

  
Anti-Fungal Painting appears to be part of a Mold or Water abatement.  

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--  
Joseph Hagarty  
  
HouseMaster / Main Line, PA  
[joseph.hagarty@housemaster.com](mailto:joseph.hagarty@housemaster.com)  
[www.householdinspector.com](http://www.householdinspector.com)  
  
Phone: 610-399-9864  
Fax : 610-399-9865  
  
HouseMaster. Home inspections. Done right.

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**Post date:** [October 17, 2005, 12:00am UTC](https://forum.nachi.org/t/painted-sealed-floor-framing/191684/3 "2005-10-17T00:00:00Z")

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**Originally Posted By: mcyr**  
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 ![icon_smile.gif](https://global.discourse-cdn.com/internachi/original/3X/4/d/4dce0a1c1db0bf5321e5b3270bfbc1b059ae6ef2.gif) ![icon_smile.gif](https://global.discourse-cdn.com/internachi/original/3X/4/d/4dce0a1c1db0bf5321e5b3270bfbc1b059ae6ef2.gif)  
  

  
Steve;  
The painting looks good, but I would question the block support with all those shims, and spacing of the joist supports in excess of four feet and the loose wires dangling all over.   
  
The double 2" x 4" plates suppose to be joist supports?  
  
  
Marcel  

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**Post date:** [October 17, 2005, 12:00am UTC](https://forum.nachi.org/t/painted-sealed-floor-framing/191684/4 "2005-10-17T00:00:00Z")

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**Originally Posted By: Steven Brewster**  
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Marcel,  
  

  
The span on the joist that are supported by the 4" x 4" are within normal span limits. I think they installed the bracing to prevent a bouncy floor. The roof is trussed so therefore the joist only support the load of the floor. As mentioned, there did not appear to be a significant moisture problem in the crawlspace, but we haven't had a good rain in several weeks. Will inquire if there is a disclosure statement by the seller.  
  
Thanks for the info.  

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**Post date:** [October 17, 2005, 12:00am UTC](https://forum.nachi.org/t/painted-sealed-floor-framing/191684/5 "2005-10-17T00:00:00Z")

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**Originally Posted By: gbeaumont**  
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Hi to all,  
  

  
I am with my learned friend Mr Haggarty on this one, it looks like moisture prevention measures, as Joe stated you can see some rusting of the nailheads, but also look at the signs of moisture in the block walls.  
  
Regards  
  
Gerry  

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--  
Gerry Beaumont  
NACHI Education Committee  
e-mail : [education@nachi.org](mailto:education@nachi.org)  
NACHI phone 484-429-5466  
  
Inspection Depot Education  
[gbeaumont@inspectiondepot.com](mailto:gbeaumont@inspectiondepot.com)  
  
"Education is a journey, not a destination"

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**Post date:** [October 17, 2005, 12:00am UTC](https://forum.nachi.org/t/painted-sealed-floor-framing/191684/6 "2005-10-17T00:00:00Z")

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**Originally Posted By: Joe Funderburk**  
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Very neat and pretty. I would question the lack of floor insulation.  

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–  
Thanks,

  
Joe Funderburk  
York County, SC  
Alpha & Omega Home Inspection, LLC  
[jfunderburk@aohomeinspection.com](mailto:jfunderburk@aohomeinspection.com)  
[www.aohomeinspection.com](http://www.aohomeinspection.com)

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**Post date:** [October 17, 2005, 12:00am UTC](https://forum.nachi.org/t/painted-sealed-floor-framing/191684/7 "2005-10-17T00:00:00Z")

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**Originally Posted By: Steven Brewster**  
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I tend to agree with the moisture prevention. The block does have moisture stains and some efflorescence that I pointed out in the report.  
  

  
Again, Thanks.  

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**Post date:** [October 17, 2005, 12:00am UTC](https://forum.nachi.org/t/painted-sealed-floor-framing/191684/8 "2005-10-17T00:00:00Z")

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**Originally Posted By: jkormos**  
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This is also done at times after a fire, I would check for residual evidence of smoke damage, just a possibility.  
  

  
Joe  
 ![icon\_biggrin.gif](upload://iKNGSw3qcRIEmXySa8gItY6Gczg.gif)  

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**Post date:** [October 18, 2005, 12:00am UTC](https://forum.nachi.org/t/painted-sealed-floor-framing/191684/9 "2005-10-18T00:00:00Z")

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**Originally Posted By: dedwards**  
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I know it isn’t the original question but I noticed a significant drop on one of the main Drain lines in the second photo that could cause some problems. I have to agree with the other posts. I too notice the rusted nail heads in the first photo and my first thoughts were they were using a paint with antifugal or a mildewicide additive to combat a potential mold problem. The blocks do show signs of moisture.  

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**Post date:** [October 18, 2005, 12:00am UTC](https://forum.nachi.org/t/painted-sealed-floor-framing/191684/10 "2005-10-18T00:00:00Z")

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**Originally Posted By: mcyr**  
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 ![icon_smile.gif](https://global.discourse-cdn.com/internachi/original/3X/4/d/4dce0a1c1db0bf5321e5b3270bfbc1b059ae6ef2.gif) ![icon_smile.gif](https://global.discourse-cdn.com/internachi/original/3X/4/d/4dce0a1c1db0bf5321e5b3270bfbc1b059ae6ef2.gif)  
  

  
I guess I am not looking at the same picture as everyone else.   
  
What I thought was a double plate prop was in fact the illusion of the check crack in the 4" x 4" as you mentioned was used.   
I fail to comment on moisture of the block work, because I don't see block work.   
Supporting the joist mid-span only tells me that it was undersized and did not meet code to the L/360. The CMU with shims and shimming at the intermediate supports do not quite meet the standard of practice in floor framing construction.   
  
The rust that you see on the wood bridging that was added for lateral bracing and added component to the diaphragm of the floor assembly, was caused by painting the exposed framing members with a latex based paint. Does it every time. Moisture in the paint reacts with the metal like moisture does on any metal.   
  
The plumbing also annoys me to the fact that I guess this plumber did not believe in using plumbing wye's. A three inch waste should not dump at 90 degrees into the main, and all branch lines should intercept the main with the flow as the two inch branch shown dumping in a sanitary tee.   
  
I am sure some plumbers will correct me out there, but I am just talking off the cuff on this one. (Logic. )  
  
Hopefully, you called this one out as you saw it and needs attention and recommendation of professional contractors.   
  
Marcel  

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**Post date:** [October 18, 2005, 12:00am UTC](https://forum.nachi.org/t/painted-sealed-floor-framing/191684/11 "2005-10-18T00:00:00Z")

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**Originally Posted By: Steven Brewster**  
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Yes Marcel,  
  

  
I recommended all the above. This is the same house with the S-trap fixture drains. As mentioned in that post, many deficiencies for a 5 yr. old home. Amateur workmanship, incorrect fitting used on drainlines (sani t on back) etc.  
  
The interesting thing is I can't locate a code ref. for the nose diving drain pipe. Talked to several plumber friends of mine and they could not pin point a code ref. but said it was just understood rule of thumb that you don't do that. Seem to me the liquid would out run the solids.   
  
The span for the floor joist is more than adequate (2" x 10" 16" o.c. 13' span).  
  
Thanks,  
Steven  

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**Post date:** [October 19, 2005, 12:00am UTC](https://forum.nachi.org/t/painted-sealed-floor-framing/191684/12 "2005-10-19T00:00:00Z")

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**Originally Posted By: away**  
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Steven,  
  

  
IRC 3005.4.2 gives the drain and sewer size and slope.  

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--  
Andrew Way  
Keystone Residential Inspection Services PLLC  
817.441.9598  
[www.keystoneinspections.com](http://www.keystoneinspections.com)

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**Post date:** [October 19, 2005, 12:00am UTC](https://forum.nachi.org/t/painted-sealed-floor-framing/191684/13 "2005-10-19T00:00:00Z")

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**Originally Posted By: Steven Brewster**  
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Andrew,  
  

  
I have read the chart P3005.4.2 but I dont read it as a max slope, just a minimum. I may be off base in my interpretation. Thanks for the input, just was not sure how to interpret the code. I see this type slope on drain pipes often.  
  
Thanks  

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**Post date:** [October 19, 2005, 12:00am UTC](https://forum.nachi.org/t/painted-sealed-floor-framing/191684/14 "2005-10-19T00:00:00Z")

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**Originally Posted By: rcloyd**  
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The 4x4 beam is overspanned as evidenced by the deflection visible in the photo. Someone has tried to correct the sagging floor (which rests upon the beam) by installing shims beneath the low joists. The beam should be replaced or re-inforced and supported properly on solid blocking or metal shims.  

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–  
Russell G. Cloyd  
  
  
Intra-Spec Home Inspections  
  
  
& Code Consulting, LLC  
  
  
859-586-4591  
  
  
[www.intra-spechomeinspections.com](http://www.intra-spechomeinspections.com)

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**Post date:** [October 19, 2005, 12:00am UTC](https://forum.nachi.org/t/painted-sealed-floor-framing/191684/15 "2005-10-19T00:00:00Z")

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**Originally Posted By: away**  
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Steven,  
  

  
Hmm, when I first found the table I was thinking of it as both max and min. But it doesn't really say that either.  

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--  
Andrew Way  
Keystone Residential Inspection Services PLLC  
817.441.9598  
[www.keystoneinspections.com](http://www.keystoneinspections.com)

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**Post date:** [October 19, 2005, 12:00am UTC](https://forum.nachi.org/t/painted-sealed-floor-framing/191684/16 "2005-10-19T00:00:00Z")

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**Originally Posted By: Steven Brewster**  
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Andrew,  
  

  
Now you understand my concerns. I cant get a plumber to commit to a code that states the max slope.....So, well, I guess..... its ok? My inclination is that the slopes/IRC should be maintained as close as possible to the table aforementioned.  

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**Post date:** [October 20, 2005, 12:00am UTC](https://forum.nachi.org/t/painted-sealed-floor-framing/191684/17 "2005-10-20T00:00:00Z")

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**Originally Posted By: mcyr**  
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 ![icon_smile.gif](https://global.discourse-cdn.com/internachi/original/3X/4/d/4dce0a1c1db0bf5321e5b3270bfbc1b059ae6ef2.gif) ![icon_smile.gif](https://global.discourse-cdn.com/internachi/original/3X/4/d/4dce0a1c1db0bf5321e5b3270bfbc1b059ae6ef2.gif)  
  

  
Steve;  
  
My understanding of the code on pitch is that 1/4" per foot is and has been chosen as code for the proper pitch for soil and sewer pipes and laterals. Coming out of a residence and if the pipe size were to be increased to 6" then the slope could conceivably be reduced to 1/2% pitch. On a 4" sewer pipe to the street no less than 1% pitch is required.   
All internal sewer pipes and laterals must maintain 2% pitch.   
  
There is a controversy as to what is acceptable through Plumbing Inspectors, though, as they do not control the codes outside the house in this area.   
  
Having pitch in excess is and has always been thought of as too much pitch will get the liquids out and the solids tend to stay behind. Common sense and a little physics will prove this accurate.   
  
Marcel  

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**Post date:** [October 20, 2005, 12:00am UTC](https://forum.nachi.org/t/painted-sealed-floor-framing/191684/18 "2005-10-20T00:00:00Z")

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**Originally Posted By: Steven Brewster**  
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Thanks!  

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**Post date:** [October 21, 2005, 12:00am UTC](https://forum.nachi.org/t/painted-sealed-floor-framing/191684/19 "2005-10-21T00:00:00Z")

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**Originally Posted By: Monte Lunde**  
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Just a question " what about the second story bathroom"?  
  

  
I always thought that you had to use TWO 45 degree instead of a ONE 90 degree for any turn (vertical to horizontal line or a horizontal to vertical line) when plumbing a sewer line and then the horizontal line has to have a minimum slope of a 1/4" per ft.  

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--  
Monte Lunde CCI, CCPM, CRI  
Viking Construction Services Inc.

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**Post date:** [October 21, 2005, 12:00am UTC](https://forum.nachi.org/t/painted-sealed-floor-framing/191684/20 "2005-10-21T00:00:00Z")

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**Originally Posted By: mcyr**  
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 ![icon_smile.gif](https://global.discourse-cdn.com/internachi/original/3X/4/d/4dce0a1c1db0bf5321e5b3270bfbc1b059ae6ef2.gif) ![icon_smile.gif](https://global.discourse-cdn.com/internachi/original/3X/4/d/4dce0a1c1db0bf5321e5b3270bfbc1b059ae6ef2.gif)  
  

  
Monte;  
I would not imagine that wether a toilet is on the second floor or the first floor would make any difference.   
As long as the main distribution line is accessed with the proper wye for discharge, I do not see a problem.   
  
Marcel  

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