Part 1: Video. Time: 2:40 Scott Harris identifies dry rot at door stile bottom. The door shows no signs of the white mycelium often associated with dry rot, and the indication of the wood in subsequent frames would point to wet rot, caused by moisture, typical in these areas of external timber components.
For further information on this subject.
Wet Rot vs Dry Rot.
Identifying wet rot: (Mold species Coniophora puteana)
– A black or dark brown fungus may appear on lumber
– The lumber is likely to feel soft and spongy to the touch with discoloration present
– If the decay has dried out the lumber will crack and crumble easily
Identifying dry rot: (Mold species Serpula lacrymans)
– White sheets (known as mycelium growth) are often present
– An orange colored fruiting body may be seen on the surface of the lumber
– The wood will be brown in color and will crumble due to mold feeding on the lumber.
This is a photograph of the four burner configuration in a single stage, naturally drafted furnace, using a combination vent in conjunction with a Rheem gas fired water heater on a B-Vent. The furnace was manufactured in 1997 by International Comfort Products.
There were no gas leaks detected from the gas supply piping and joints.
The furnace has electronic ignition, a single speed blower, and a steel tube heat exchanger.
The picture confirms the visual inspection that the combustion of the gas appears to be efficient with no yellow or orange flames which would indicate incomplete combustion.
The picture was taken with the blower fan on, and with no flame interference there is no visual indication of penetration of the combustion area to home heating zones of the furnace at this location.
Smoke pen tests at each of the burner inlets showed good intake of air 60 second after ignition of the burners.
The draft was checked, using a smoke pen at the water heater draft-hood to ensure no back-draft following ignition of the furnace. The water heater was subsequently ignited and similar tests were performed at the furnace to ensure the reciprocal was true.
The design and configuration of the furnace identifies it as a mid-efficiency furnace. While this furnace appeared to be function as designed, energy efficiency improvements can be obtained by the installation of a newer high-efficiency, direct vented furnace.
The efficiency gained by such a replacement would be greater if proper sealing of the joints in, and insulation of, the HVAC distribution duct-work were completed along with any other energy improvements recommended as part of the energy audit.
Enhancing Energy Efficiency in Historic Buildings.
**It was interesting to read that buildings that are considered historic, and built before 1940, are shown to require less energy consumption for heating and cooling than houses built into the mid 1970’sPrior to 1940, the concern of the use of natural resource depletion was not as heightened as it is today so the considerations we now take for granted, such as tightening of homes was not even thought of when these homes were built.
It is interesting that the “modern” home with its insulated, vinyl windows and fully insulated cavity walls, that are thrown together on site still have problems with energy efficiency compared with the homes that were built essentially by craftsman.
Reading the retrofit dangers that should be avoided in historic buildings I was surprised to see that no mention of insulation of balloon framed houses was included. Adding insulation to crawlspaces and attics always appears to be the number one energy conservation pay-back, but then when the attention is turned to the walls, consideration should be given to the type of framing. While a platform framed house can easily have it’s cavity walls insulated without damage to the historic attributes, studies have shown that the design of many balloon framed historic house rely on the cavity in the frames to provide ventilation and moisture removal from the cavity thus preserving the lumber components.
It is important to understand in our search for energy nirvana, that dealing with historic homes requires a good understanding of not just how these homes were built but why they were built that way, and what advantages this offered, as well as what possible damage we may cause by inadvertent tightening of the envelope.
Flashing on window sill was installed sloping towards the window. Water was laying along the bottom of the window, was damp with mold/mildew visible along the bottom of several windows.
Caulking around the window frames is shrinking/cracked, allowing air & water to enter around the frame.
This install was a newer job, and the homeowner advised they were contacting the contractor to correct this situation.
I read an article on the energy star system, and on carbon monoxide. The energy star rating gives consumers efficiency ratings on household appliances. The problem is if there is no true standards of measurements, and if some manufactures go around the rules. It is fraudulent if a consumer buys an appliance based on an energy rating that wasn’t verified, especially if they paid extra money for it.
The second article on carbon monoxide speaks of the dangers of this gas. It outlines ways to protect oneself with a carbon monoxide detector. Also one should properly service all appliances or systems, that can endanger the occupants of a house.
Sometimes when looking through a house you wonder if the house was carefully thought out, or constructed randomly. As a small example my photo shows an air return located in a bedroom. It’s behind a door, so how much air is actually being pulled in by this vent. Surely there could have been a better spot.
Inspection and Writing assignment for “Performing a Home Energy Audit”
The attached image is a 28 year old electric water heater in a home I recently inspected. Though operating at the time of inspection this water heater was functioning at the low end of the water temperature spectrum. The water heater was at full heat setting and was only producing 104 degrees at the taps. A water heater this old is not going to be running as efficient as a new more energy star rated system and should be upgraded and replaced. In this particular inspection the client was advised that though working at the time of inspection the water heater has potentially reached the end of its usable life span and should budget for replacement.
Reading and Writing assignment for “Performing a Home Energy Audit”
First article chosen was “Estimating the Lifespan of a Water Heater”
When installed properly (upright) and when regular maintenance is performed a water heater will have the longest possible lifespan. A lifespan of a water heater is also dependent on the usage of the system. High volumes of water will shorten the lifespan because the system is working harder and more often. When determining the lifespan of a water heater keep all of these points in mind and then make proper recommendations to the client so the home they are in can have the most energy efficient water heater as possible.
Second article chosen was “Installing Attic Insulation”
Attic insulation plays a large role in the home’s overall energy efficiency. Improper attic insulation can result in heat or AC loss, moisture problems and just and overall inefficient home in general. It is important as a energy home inspector to check the attic insulation thoroughly to make sure it covers all areas that need proper insulation. Roof baffles, vapor barriers and the insulation itself all work together as a system to keep the attic area as efficient as possible. Note any insulation issues in your report so the client can get them repairs and have a more energy efficient home.
In performing an energy audit I observed some damage to the weather seal around the front door. This damage may allow air to leak into and out of the home reducing the energy efficiency of the residence. I recommend replacement of the weather seal.
This is to satisfy the reading and writing requirement of this course. The following two articles were reviewed:
10 Easy Ways to Save Money & Energy in your Home. Reducing energy consumption equals more money in your pocket. There are several ways in doing this such as installing a ceiling fan, installing a programmable thermostat, install a tankless water heater, replace incandescent lights with LED, seal and insulate your home, install water conserving fixtures among many other ways. As technology advances and more opportunities present themselves to save energy it will become increasingly easier to save money.
Backdrafting. Backdrafting occurs when toxic gases are released from fuel fired appliances inside of the home instead of the exterior due to a difference in pressure. If the indoor pressure is too low, these gases may be sucked back into the home through the flue and may allow CO2 to enter the living areas. This is most common on atmospheric draft appliances that depend on indoor air for combustion, sealed combustion appliances almost completely eliminate this possibility.
As a contract painter for years I never had to access attics for any reason other than removing the hatch cover, but every now and then I run into a situation where there was a pull down ladder. In reference to a thread I posted yesterday the house I inspected for a friend of mine had an attic pull down ladder.This house was built in the early 70’s and who ever designed this ladder was a true engineer.The construction was very solid having used lag screws with high end springs and hinges.My photo might not be the best but believe me when I say this ladder is high quality and made with the finest material available at the time. Thanks Glen
Here is an example of improper or lack of insulation in the attic space shown in infrared. Although there is drywall in place in this general area the temperature difference can make a significant impact on heat loss. This can be easily be corrected buy adding insulation to its correct R-value in these locations.
Efflorescence is typically seen in crawlspaces and basements, although not a very destructive product in itself the evidence poses other potential and greater issues. Improper drainage around the property is one example, this poses the biggest threat to the structural integrity of the property. Another is the air quality that can be compromised as a result having visible efflorescence. Either way we should try to identify the source and make the appropriate steps to correct it.
You never know what to expect when entering an attic and in this case I was there to check the insulation work but found other flaws as I was moving through the attic. Not only did the attic have a mixture of Batts and loose fill Rockwool, my recommendation was to rake out the existing loose fill while adding more to reach a better R- value. The duct work I noticed needed the elbows taped off and/or insulated. The furnace was mounted on its side and the installation tag clearly states the unit must be installed in a upright position. There were box fans with lamp type extension cords plugged in and lying over the gas line, this could turn out to be hazard at some point. Over all the attic had proper ventilation and just needs cleaned up for efficiency.
Many of have heard the old sayings: The barber’s kids need haircuts, the cobbler’s kids have holes in their shoes. This is a picture of my attic access panel. It has no gasket and no insulation affixed to the top side of it. The current outdoor temperature is 65f and the thermostat is set to 73f. The AHU was not running and there was virtually no wind outside. While the panel itself read 68f, the ceiling drywall near the panel was closer to 72f. The rest of the attic has a consistent 12" - 14" of blown-in fiberglass insulation. I should probably get right on this!
This is a picture of my personal water heater installed in the garage of my home. There are no apparent problems with unit except for some knocking after uses from the shower. The unit is in it’s last years due poor maintenance from previous occupants and/or owners.
I find this to be outdated in the case that the government can take a house for “improvements” of the community as a whole. For government to take a certain area because a developer(special interest) wants that land and area for financial gain is, well not right, and should be looked in by another agency. A blighted property should have the opportunity to be fixed and not be taken by special interest which is government.
I have noticed that on several inspections on the exterior of the home there is staining on the stucco of the house. I generally attribute this to lack of guttering around the area above. One inspection revealed my belief to be incorrect. the eaves above were approx two feet out with guttering system attached and plenty of staining on the stucco. Is this still considered ghosting. Attached is a picture. Also, more moisture was noted in the spotting areas.
Per the home energy audit course I have submitted picutres showing an area with missing insulation. The first picture shows a view from the attic space and the second picture is with an infared camera showing the potential enegery loss from the uninsulated section. We recommend having a qualified person reinstall the insulation at the “knee” of the vaulted ceiling.
The infrared image was taken at a garage ceiling which is under the bonus room floor on the second floor. The image shows missing insulation which can cause energy loss.
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