Please proof this new article on Sump Pumps.

Should the last word read “lifespan” and not “lifespans”. I also thought Drainfield was 2 words not 1, however I could be wrong.

“Basement floors should be poured on a decline so that any excess water will flow in one direction”

I tend to disagree with this statement. The floor should still be poured level for living purposes. There shouldn’t be any water on top of the slab in the first place. A sump pump, if correctly installed with the proper drain lines under the floor, should take care of the problem by removing water from under the slab before it can enter the living area.

We don’t have a lot of basements out here but of all those I have inspected, the floors were always level and any sump pumps and drain lines were under the slab.

It will be interesting to hear from those in the east that have many more basements.

Sump pumps would LOSE power, not loose power.

Golf club, not gold club

It is valuable to have a warning device installed that to signal a water buildup change language

I’m also not sure how many people have gold clubs just laying around the home.

Thanks for catching those mistakes guys. I’ve seen drainfield as one word and two, but we think it’s less confusing as one word because “drain” can be a verb if it’s used by itself. This was a concern in the septic article so we just kept it at one word.

As far as golf clubs lying around the home, you’ll have to ask Kenton about that, it was his suggestion! You can use anything you happen to see that isn’t conductive, like a golf club, mop handle, etc

Golf clubs are one thing but you have put Gold clubs

How a Sump Pump Work

should be - How a Sump Pump Works

What about “dirty water Sumps”? Shouldn’t these be included also. They should be sealed & vented.

Lots of radon here in KC, so most basements with sump holes are sealed and not accessable. We note it that way. Also some codes are different when we see sump pumps discharging into sewer systems. I always suggest to re-route to exterior ground areas, in case the sewer backs up during storms. Most electrical contractors are installing sump electrical outlets higher onto walls, even to the joists to keep people away, so GFCI’s will not be needed. I prefer the standard designated single breaker non-GFCI outlet for the pump. Different codes for different cities. Storms can cut a GFCI breaker, then you will have water in the basement; let the breaker at the panel do that. Anytime I see a finished basement with a sump pump, I always suggest battery-backup.

They are normally installed in basements to remove intrusive water that has seeped into the home from rising groundwater and surface runoff

They are usually installed below basement or crawlspace floors to remove
rising groundwater and surface runoff before it has a chance to seep into the home.

Good point on the sealed sump pits. As Home Inspectors we are not required to open a pit that is sealed due to a radon mitigation system. If it is a Dirty water sump you can just run the water until it turns on. That’s if the dirty sump is sealed & vented properly. I see many that are not and call it out as a potential health hazard.

Also for those that are up on the Electrical code & Knowledge. Here in Ohio as of Jan 1 2009. AFCI & child proofed outlets are required on all circuits in new construction.

Does this include the Sump circuit? If yes you should absolutely have a back-up pump, with battery back-up with an alarm that will alert you if the main pump for any reason is not functioning as intended. Same goes for a GFCI protected pump.

Better hope that golf club doesn’t have a graphite shaft…

I recommend a couple of things:

  1. That, when they replace the pump, that they get the new pump from a plumbing supply store and get a heavy-duty model. The cheap ones from Home Depot don’t have good capacity or long lifes. Besides, many home owners want to avoid paying a plumber and just buy and install the cheapest one thay can find.
  2. I do not recommend the cheap 12 volt battery backup pumps. I recommend a 120 volt uninterupted power supply for the existing pump.
  3. As a backup, I recommend a 2nd pump, raised higher in the sump, as a backup should the lower one fail. Both powered bt the 120 volt power supply.
  4. Change the check valve every 5 years. I ask the client to write a month and date, 5 years in the future, on the check valve as a reminder (I also recommend the same thing for smoke and CO detectors).
  5. I always want to see the water discharged to the ground, as state, at least 20’ away from the house (and downslope, if there is a slope). I have seen, MANY TIMES, window well drains and underground pipes for downspouts connected to the exterior drain tile, which is not good. In these instances I regularly see an exterior pipe, for the sump discharge, is also connected to the drain tile and not taken away from the house. Many of the pipe layers (usually foundation guys) have no clue which underground pipes will be used for the sump as opposed to the downspouts. They all look the same to the roofers, whi install the gutters. I carry some packets of red RITT dye and pour it down the sump discharge pipe then check the sump for any red. About 1/3 of the time, on new construction, I see red (literally!).

Hope this helps.