I’ll be starting this course first thing in the morning.
This link is not working in the course http://chrome-extension//efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/https://s3.amazonaws.com/uploads-east-1.nachi.org/page-uploads%2F2024%2F01%2F1704903252984-Electric+Panelboard+Inspection+Checklist.pdf
David, maybe let them know at education@InterNACHI.org
Also: @bgromicko
last course before i do my mock inspections, sign the affidavit and then take my test! here we go!
I’m about to start the Advanced Electrical inspection course any tips?
getting ready to start advanced electrical inspection course Jeremy PA
So, the Electric Guru mentioned that re-designating a neutral wire as a hot (by black tape or black marker) in conduit is not acceptable. Is it acceptable in a Romex application? It is pretty common practice here that electricians utilize a white wire as a hot but they color the visible insultation with a sharpie marker. However, the same issue that the Guru is explaining, an unexpected hot wire downstream, could very well happen in Romex as well.
[quote="Eric Wiles, post:5990, topic:73321, username:ewiles2”]
…re-designating a neutral wire as a hot (by black tape or black marker) in conduit is not acceptable. Is it acceptable in a Romex application?
[/quote]
Yes, it is re-identified often.
Nice catch! Being new to the HI business, I have not seen it or even thought about it happening even though it makes complete sense. Thank you for sharing the picture.
Here I go again on my own…
HI there - thanks for the additional information and classes. Just finished watching “Electrical Service from Hell”.
ready to start the course
thank you for all of these great courses and videos. I’m learning so much!
Anybody else here come from an energy auditing background?
I finished the basic electrical inspection course and starting the advanced electrical inspection course now.
I’m currently working through the Advanced Electrical Inspection course, and I have a question that seems basic, but is tripping me up. On a recent inspection, I noted that the gas line entered the house (attached garage) at the meter, and was not bonded. I thought that was a defect, until I started searching online. I think I understand that the iron gas line must be bonded if it is “likely to become energized” by an electrical conductor. I can understand why having electrical cabling near the iron pipe might energize it. But this this pipe ran straight through the wall, into the garage, and made a t, with one leg going to the gas water heater, and the other to the furnace. The line was connected to the furnace with a yellow, plastic-coated flex connector. The furnace electrical cut-off looked right (grounded/bonded). Is this “likely” to become energized? Is this a matter of opinion? I can’t find any info on whether these appliance connectors should be jumpered, which makes me think they are no likely to become energized. What do y’all (hopefully those of y’all with experience and actual expertise) think? Do we always call out unbonded gas lines, or do we actually investigate the likelihood of energizing the line? If we investigate, what circumstance would/ would not require bonding?
Beginning Advance Electrical Course. Making my First Post!
Looking forward to learning more.
A member just sent in a great essay response! Check it out:
View Question
Research & Writing Essay Instructions
This research and writing assignment may take four hours.
- Choose one inspection article from the Library of Inspection Articles or choose one illustration from the Illustration Gallery that directly relates to the topics covered in this course.
- Research and study the article or illustration.
- In the box below titled “Your Essay," write an essay that describes what you’ve learned from reading and studying the article or illustration.
- Upload and submit an inspection image or the chosen illustration along with the essay.
Your essay must meet the following criteria:
- It must be written in English.
- It must be at least 80 words in length.
- It must be written at a minimum 4th-grade level.
- It must sufficiently comment upon the chosen article or illustration related to this course's main topics.
- It must include an inspection image.
This research and writing assignment is very similar to what a home inspector does during a home inspection--researching and studying inspection images and illustrations, studying and referring to and applying a Standards of Practice, taking inspection images, making observations, describing components, determining the condition of those components, formulating opinions, making recommendations to correct (if needed), proposing the implication of not making corrections to a defect (if observed), writing notes, and communicating observations in written form.
Please continue with the course after submitting your essay. If the essay does not meet the criteria, you'll be notified by email to rewrite the essay.
Romex and AC cables are not permitted in residential buildings over 3 stories. Romex is the brand name for a style of cable that has insulated conductors inside of a flame and moisture resistant covering. AC (armored cable) has extra protection due to flexible metallic sheathing which covers the wires.Many older homes built before WW2 have knob and tube wiring. This type of wiring is potentially hazardous due to its age and the deterioration that comes from heat in the wires. Additionally many insurance companies do not write insurance policies for homes with knob and tube wiring. If this type of wiring is observed it should be reccommended that a licensed electrician evaluate the system.
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I have a question about aluminum conductors. I inspected a home main service panel in a home built in 2024 in North Carolina. Aluminum wiring was used for the larger systems including the electric heat pump/AC and electric cooktop. I am not able to identify visually the gauge of the aluminum wiring but assuming it is sufficient for the ampacity of the breaker is there a concern using aluminum and is this common? I recall learning that special connectors CO/ALR should be used and then there should be no concern but where are these connectors located? At the unit? is the breaker a special breaker? I really need some help, in general, about aluminum wiring for larger appliances in newly built homes (assuming they passed municipal inspectors…and I know ‘never assume anything’) Quick pic attached but not very helfpful
