I was able to locate fire extinguisher about 15 feet away from outside my door. Seems to be inspected July 2016, almost a full year. Provides license #, phone number and shows whom it was service by. It is good to extinguish, type A - trash/paper/wood, type B - Liquids and grease, type C electrical equipment.
I read the article : Fire Safety for the Home. To practice and plan your escape from a fire as well as plan your escape within your abilities. Install Smoke alarms and check to make sure they work, test monthly. Be aware where fire extinguisher is and know your local emergency number is. As well as make sure any space heaters need to be 3 feet of clearance and be accountable shutting the heater off to prevent any hazards.
Brick faced pre-manufactured fireplace. House is slab on grade, no combustibles noted on firebox floor. Hearth is constructed of solid brick. Flue damper functions correctly. Lintel is of proper material and location. Mantle and corbels are properly secured and of adequate distance from the firebox opening.
Wood burning fireplaces should only be fueled with wood from trees such as oak, pine, maple, spruce, and other hard and soft woods. Untreated wooden pallets may also be used, as can untreated wood from construction sites. Treated wood should never be burned.
This is a photo of a masonry chimney. Due to the steep pitch of the roof, the chimney must be taller to satisfy the 3-2-10 chimney height requirements. This chimney passes that test? Also visible is the rain cap atop the stack.
This is the flue to the water heater, which is located inside of the garage. There are two 45 degree bends, with all pieces appearing to be properly attached. There are no visible signs of corrosion or incomplete combustion on this component.
The inspection image is an inspector inspecting the fireplace. He is physically looking inside of the firebox, through the throat, and up at the damper. From here, the inspector will also check for any visual defects he can see beyond the smoke shelf and up the flue.
I looked at a picture of flashing on a chimney. They flashing keeps water from damaging the chimney and the roof. Proper flashing will prevent water from getting under the roof shingles. Sometimes counter flashing is missing due to asthetics, but this is improper and should be reported.
For this exercise I chose the article: Ventless Fireplace Inspection
by Nick Gromicko
URL: https://www.nachi.org/ventless-fireplace-inspection.htm
From the article I learned some additional helpful information about duct-free fireplaces which will help me in future inspections should I run into any again. At the time of this writing I had only come across one home with multiple duct-free fireplaces installed and recommending a duel smoke & CO detector was almost a no-brainer, but upon taking this course I have found that there are other considerations that I wasn’t aware of at the time. For instance, aside from venting the typical unburnt combustion byproducts we’re familiar with such as carbon monoxide (CO) these fireplaces can also create high levels of water vapor which can lead to mold growth and other moisture related issues within spaces that aren’t well ventilated. So good ventilation is important while a duct-free fireplace is in use. In addition to this, I learned that some manufacturers of these systems include an oxygen-detection sensor (ODS) with the unit that will automatically turn off the unit should oxygen levels drop too low. This last items is particularly valuable since it underscores the fact that these systems could cause low oxygen levels while also pointing out an additional level of safety that can be employed and that home inspectors can recommend if such a sensor is not already present.
Chimneys should be high enough to prevent downdrafts caused by wind. The 3-2-10 Rule for masonry chimneys states that amasonry chimney should extend at least 3 feet above the highest point where the chimney passes through the roof, and 2 feet above any portion of a building that is within a 10-foot distance horizontally.
This is a custom log fireplace that is capable of burning real wood and must be burned with the damper open. The reason for this is that they do not burn the gas cleanly and create exhaust. this exhaust need to go up the chimney.
When inspecting a fireplace, you should always make sure the hearth is free and clear of any objects or articles that may be combustible. The hearth should be 16" out and 8" on either side. The reasoning for this is to ensure any kind of embers don’t extend past, causing a fire.
More often than not, you may find adjustable steel columns used in basements. They should be no less than 3 inches in diameter and have a rust inhibitive paint so as to minimize any corrosion. Also, a non-corrosive steel is very efficient.
Jimmy had a large amount of mortar missing from the bricks. There was no spark arrester or chimney cap on top of chimney. There is also evidence of plant matter growing from with in the chimney. Recommend having it evaluated by a chimney professional. This inspection results in a defect
The article I chose was preventing chimney collapse. Chimneys are among the happiest and most structural vulnerable of wall exterior components of a building. She really should be checked for motor that crumbles, insufficient lateral support, tree limbs, and separation from the building . Homeowners should contact the local building departments to octane required permits before starting any significant construction.
On the page “Chimney Connection” I paste the following text:
and thickness not less than that of galvanized steel.
I must be missing something as I have in my possession galvanized steel ranging in thickness from .250" down to 22 gauge.
The “thickness” is not a quantitative measurement. I do not mean to be insulting but this is nonsensical to me. I am a well seasoned machinist and I am not aware of any measuring device dedicated to measuring galvanized steel.
This paragraph seems to suggest that the thickness of galvanized steel is a constant and I know that that is not true. I have worked with galvanized steel as thick as .375" and as this as 22 gauge.
Please tell me what I am missing here for this makes no sense to me as it is written.
This solid fuel burning fireplace has an insert installed with thermostat controlled circulating fans. The extended stone hearth is built 16" out from face of insert. The space around the insert opening exceeds 6" on sides and top. The lintel is steel and shows no signs of stress (rusting). The fireplace mantel is combustible (wood), over 30" above the insert opening, protrudes 9" out from wall surface. No signs of stress appear at the underneath of mantel. Stone wall area just above insert top fan outlet, shows signs of soot. Owners should only burn dry wood to prevent this. Glass in door has a crack and needs to be replaced prior to future use. Rope seal on door creates air tight seal.
When preforming a home inspection, it is in the inspectors benefit, to perform a thorough, concise, and truthful report. Failing to do so can lead to negligence suits brought about by the client. Diligence in the inspection can protect the inspector from claims of misrepresentation, breach of conflict, and suffering from any damages awarded the client. Reporting on a roof, in which an inspector never walked or viewed from a ladder, can lead to the inspector having to pay the costs for a new roof. In the military this is called gun-decking, and leads to a dishonorable discharge.
I’m going to review the different types of extingusihers.The types are dry chemical,carbon dioxide,water,and wet chemical.The dry is most commomly used, the co2 is mostly used in labs and computer rooms. Water is used only for type A and wet is for kitchens.
Fire extinguishers are a must to have in your home. The classes are A,B,C,D and K. The BC is the type used for carbon monoxide. Each type can’t be used safely and effectively for every type of fire in a home.