Student discussions of "How to Inspect Fireplaces, Stoves, & Chimneys" course


Regardless of my findings, I would always recommend to the client that fireplaces, woodstoves and the such, should be inspected professionally prior to use. Also recommend that they be inspected by a professional prior to seasonal use in the future. I inspected a type b vent in my furnace room. vented properly with the water heater, smaller appliance, venting on top of the Furnace, for proper drafting. wall clearance was at the minimum standard at the increaser.

This is a picture from a recent home inspection with a zero clearance direct vent fireplace. The unit did not have the pilot light lite and was not tested for operation. The unit is set up to operate from a standard wall switch to the right of the unit. Although not tested for operation, I did inspect the unit in regards to the LP gas line and shut-off, and the interior components behind the lower access panel. The pilot and control area was very dirty/dusty. I recommended cleaning/service by a Licensed Fireplace Contractor before use.

I read the column on adjustable post. Adjustable post are used to support beams and are found for the most part in basement’s. Inspectors should check for defects such as rusting, not mechanically connected to the beam and bending.

I read Fire Safety for the home and Fire stops for my two articles. One of my most repair/replace items listed on my reports is from missing or old smoke detectors. Many of the older homes will only have one smoke alarm for the entire house, which was code at that time. I encourage clients to install long life battery smoke alarms in all bedrooms and utility rooms for safety. It is also mandatory in my state for Carbon Monoxide detectors to be installed with in 15 feet of all bedrooms.

These photos are of a prefabricated wood burning fireplace. The hearth dimensions are up to specification and the wood mantel is three feet above the fire box opening. Doors and screens function properly with no chips or cracks. The unit has obviously been recently used and could use a cleaning.

Looking inside the fire box reveals more about the true condition of the unit. Although not pictured the flue liner is also showing signs of creosote build up. Pictured above is a major crack and missing material of the rear firebox tile liner. To prevent fire risk this unit should not be used until evaluated by a professional and repairs are made.

In keeping with the theme of the Fireplace stove and chimney course I read the articles regarding Chimney Inspection and Firestops. With the threat of fireplace collapse being a very real thing with serious consequences to the homeowner, surrounding area and properties, and us as inspectors, it behooves us to take as many precautions and forarm ourselves with as much knowledge as possible when evaluating the common chimney. From the loose and decaying mortar we see so often it becomes routine, to the harder to diagnose cracks in the flue liner, it is our duty to be the best advocate we can be for the true condition of a property.

Care must be taken not to let the inspection process become a mundane routine. Knowledge of how heated gases move within and out of fireplaces and stoves will aid the inspector in determining safe fire gaps to framing and where fire stops and fireproofing are needed. In many of the training segments the use of numerous pictures is touted as a major tool in the inspection arsenal. I find that when writing the report, the photos often remind me of the details I would otherwise omit.


Pictured above is a pre-fabricated fireplace in a 2004 single-family residence. It burns natural gas, and vents out of the rear of the fireplace rather than up through a conventional chimney. The firebox is sealed, so no embers can fly out onto the hearth (which is only 12-1/2"). Since the firebox is sealed, it is not easy to determine the material composition of the vent pipe, but some deterioration or peeling of a protective coating can be seen. Inspection by a professional is recommended.

The article on Fire Extinguisher Maintenance and Inspection (https://www.nachi.org/fire-extinguisher-maintenance-inspection.htm) details the different types of fires and corresponding extinguishers (A, B, C, D, and K) as well as how to determine if one needs to be tested/replaced. The most commonly used extinguisher for residences and offices would be a dry-chemical, combination ABC extinguisher that is effective for pulp products, oils, and electrical components. Class D and K are industrial or commercial in nature, and need special extinguishers. The article also describes testing procedures and the potential need for replacement due to deteriorated seals or dents.

The article on Fireplace Fuel (https://www.nachi.org/fireplace-fuel.htm) details proper and improper materials used in safe fireplace combustion. Dry wood, dimensional lumber, and natural branches are safe to burn as long as the moisture content is below 20%. Any painted wood, wet wood, or manufactured building materials like MDF or particle board are unsafe due to harmful exhaust gases and vapors that result from their combustion.

The fire place insert being inspected appeared to be serviceable in its functionality.

It is observed that there is insufficient distance from the doors of the unit and non-flammable material. There should be 16" clearance between the front of the unit and potentially combustable material.
As seen in the attached picture there is a 4-1/2" catch tray installed prior to the ashes or burning embers potentially dropping onto the adjacent carpet. This is a fire hazard and should be corrected as soon as possible.

The dampener is functional.
There does not appear to be excessive soot build up or creosote present.
It is recommended that the chimney flue be professionally cleaned and inspected annually to prevent potential fire hazards.

As this is a insert solid wood burning device it is recommended that the home owner have the insert removed and at that time have an inspection of the throat and flue system of the chimney.

The Inspector noted missing carbon monoxide detectors. There should be a carbon monoxide detector installed in the same room as the fireplace.

This is an inspection of a family room fireplace. Upon inspection of the hearth it was not possible to determine the true thickness of the concrete.
There is multiple cracking from heat this is adding to the question of the thickness of the wall structure. The back of the hearth is angled for heat to reflect back into the room.
The hearth to the throat was in fair condition at this time. The damper is in good working order.
The Lintel is steel and in good condition. The glass front screen was in good condition.
The chimney was inspected; however inspection was not conclusive, the cap was in good condition there is no rain cap present.
Inspection recommends a certified chimney sweep further evaluate the fireplace as well as the chimney for safe operation.

Fireplace fuels are designed for safe heat with no harmful vapor. Fireplaces and wood burning stoves were designed for use of dry natural woods.
Harmful vapors are inherent with the burning of plastics, trash, treated wood these impure materials can damage mechanical parts cause harmful vapors in and outside the home. Burning and understanding the types of wood which can be burnt safe will produce quick or long burning fires.
To summarize the best practice is to use the proper fuels for the fireplace or wood burning stove the use of not using the proper fuels will produce harmful vapors, damage to mechanical parts and is hazardous to the environment.

Starting the course

I inspected this masonry fireplace and chimney. The hearth extension is of adequate distance from the fireplace opening (more than 16 inches) and also extends far enough on the sides for the opening size. The lintel is made of thick steel. The fireplace insert is a factory made insert, which has a working damper that is at least 8 inches above the main fire box. There are minor cracks in the firebox walls, but no major cracks or gaps. The fireplace had been recently cleaned and there is no sign of creosote build up. The chimney is at least 2 inches from any combustible wall materials, and is in good shape. I was unable to climb on to the metal roof to inspect the top of the chimney, due to snow and ice build-up safety concerns. Overall, for an older fireplace and chimney, this one is in good shape.

I read the Abrasive Blasting for Mold Removal article. This gives some good insights into the different types of mold removal, and blasting materials used. If the Statue of Liberty can be cleaned with this technique, it must be good!

I also read Acid Rain and Inspectors: Buildings At Risk. This is a very detailed article about the chemical processes involved in acid rain and the EPA efforts to reduce this. I did not find this particularly useful to my inspection business, since there were no tips given as to what homeowners could do to reduce effects of acid rain, other than to choose building materials that are resistant.

Ben - chimneys are typically difficult to inspect. So often there is a lot not visible to the inspector.

It is important that when things are visible, like the roof inside the attic space that abuts the chimney, that it be inspected.

This is a blog that I wrote many years ago regarding a hole in, and leaking from, chimney flashing. It was rotting the roof.

http://activerain.com/blogsview/3717719/if-it-s-a-new-roof--why-is-it-wet-around-the-chimney--and-i-see-light-

Enjoy.

Thanks for the course!

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The attached picture is of “Direct Vent” fireplace, one of the most common fireplace’s in newer homes I inspect. I advise homeowners to clean and inspect annually as well as turn the pilot off in the warmer months. The glass may require cleaning a few times a year depending on use. Operation is typically with a switch or remote and I let it warm up then check for gas or carbon monoxide leaks which are rare in this area but do occur.
Additionally, early on in my career I was sued by a client because I advised them to have the “fireplace” cleaned and inspected, they did not. After purchase a fireplace company came out to clean and said the Flue was damaged and the inspector did not advise the flue be inspected or cleaned only the fireplace. Cost me a few thousand dollars. I now report “fireplace and all associated components be cleaned and inspected by a qualified chimney sweep or contractor”. Great course.

Fire Extinguisher

Inspected is an ABC type fire extinguisher located on the owners countertop next to the stove. The extinguisher is fully charged and was produced in 2015, making the next inspection to take place in January of 2020.
It is within the 30 feet of cooking area and with seventy-five feet of all other areas in the house.
Extinguisher is safe to use and readily available.
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Fireplace Fuel

If the wrong fuel is used in a fireplace or wood stove it can result in the harmful byproduct to vent into the interior and the exterior. It can also cause mechanical failure.
One can burn dried wood, fallen limbs, wood collected from jobsites, and fire logs. Unapproved materials like painted wood, plywood, or trash should never be burned in a fireplace or wood stove.
Burn only approved materials.

Kickout Flashing

Kickout flashing should be present where gutters terminate on the slide of chimneys. If absent, water can seep into the wall causing severe damage. Where needed, kickout flashing should be properly installed and able to direct rain water into a gutter.


This chimney has a few issues. First I does not extend 3 feet at the highest point it came through the roof. I is within 10 feet of a peak and does not clear the peak by 2 feet.