Awww…now you know Brian …that green screw and the bar jumper is only their for looks…
I am sure Paul it is cheaper to install it this way. That, and with the labor force here, this kinda install might be allowed in the Electricians home country.
And Paul, I got a new camera too so you could see my pictures better.
Well that and my old camera fell apart.
What did you choose…any particular reasons? I’m keeping my eyes open for one.
Oh yeah, problem panel…don’t want to drift too much.
I had an old casio I bought at radio shack 4 mega pixel that I just beat to hell Larry, it still works though but many of the small screws are missing. I bought a Nikon Cool-Pix L4 for $139 it is very small but a little slow. I have just figured out the basics on it and it seems ok.
Does that mean the recovery time to take another pic is slow? I have an old Minolta Dimage XI and that’s something I don’t care for. http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/specs/Konica_Minolta/minolta_dimagexi.asp
…ahhhh…just snip the bonding strap.
This power shot
is my latest and so far I love it , it’s fast, takes very good close ups and it’s fairly inexpensive.
The battery life is also very good.
Just don’t load the damn software that comes with it! I have found this to be true w/ 3 different brands. I just use a good card reader.
Ah, hell I linked the wrong one.:roll:
Thanks, Todd, I’ll look it over but I’m with ya on not loading the supplied software. XP seems to pick up any camera download just fine.
Okay, it’s probably not a good idea to just snip the bonding strap.
Nothing really wrong with the green screw is there Paul? Sorry, that doesn’t have anything to do with cameras but I just wanted to make sure I understood things correctly.
Close up w/ zoom three feet away from a 1" button.
Close up of a 1" button from 3’ away.
My wife got me this pin. Go figure:p
Green screw is OK. The bar that connects the two lug strips needs to be removed.
lol…i was being in “combination” style funny…lol
well, that worked well.:roll:
This guy is good.
Todd is correct the nuetrals and grounds should not be connected in a subpanel.
It’s gotta be that lame ssa camera, Todd:p
By the by James B is back
Say it aint so, please!
Was not the cam it was the opperator.:roll:
Yes it is true the grounding and grounded conductors need to be separated, but no one asked if this was a four wire feed. If there is no grounding conductor feeding this panel then removing the bonding bar would be worse than leaving it alone.
I guess that comes from actually NOT being able to see the number of wires coming in and the connections regarding that statement. I am of the opinion that never settling for the “alteast” method as a safer method.
In my original post the combination of which " Green Bonding Screw and Tie Bar" was incorrect…not actually that the GREEN screw was incorrect…just in combination they are incorrect…boy that was cryptic…lol
Now I am also one that does not feel that HI’s should offer a method to correct electrical issues…not because they dont know…but because it opens them up for liability as we ALL know if you tell a homeowner how to do something…they just might TRY it…
lol…I know because I spend time moderating in another forum that tells people who to do it…and PRAY they listen to our warnings IF they are going to try…
I guess I dont like going into possible theorys of what would be better without knowing what is present unless they post it. So with that said…it is a GREAT question…can we get a SHOT of the top of that panel with that NEW cam.