I don’t like the space between the lower chord on the truss and the top plate. I could use some other opinions on this matter. I also don’t like the studs pieced together for the interior wall. You have to love how the corner post touch the floor.
Finger-jointed studs are very common and quite acceptable.
The spaces (on the other hand) between vertical and horizontal supports are a good example of poor workmanship. If nothing else, these will eventually lead to squeaking and creaking of the house framing, which (as we all know) is quite “undesirable.”
Is this a top plate of an inner wall?
If so, per my instruction, there should be no ridge fastener, and the cord should float. Since trusses will uplift with humidity and temperature changes.
tom
Yes it is a inner wall and it has a fastener connected to the cord. I know that the cord needs to float but I am having trouble finding it in the ICC.
Finger-jointed studs are very common and quite acceptable except on bearing walls.
Gary
Finger-jointed studs can be used in load bearing walls and non-load bearing walls, but generally are only to be used as vertical members.
If it’s a truss roof, the only load bearing walls are the outer walls.
The manufacturer might make the instruction about not nailing inner walls.
imho,
tom
“don’t allow the carpenter to nail the roof trusses directly to any interior walls.”: http://www.askthebuilder.com/169_Truss_Uplift_and_Ceiling_Cracks.shtml
Whether the space between the lower chord of the truss is significant or not depends on the design of the truss, and exactly how the truss is designed to be supported. If the truss is designed to span beyond the inner wall, then the space may be proper. You won’t find anything like this in a code. A code is a minimum standard, not a primer on construction technique. For things like trusses, the manufacturer’s recommendations essentially become the applicable “code”. I would guess that any connection between the truss and a non-load-bearing wall should be designed to allow the truss to deflect, and therefore should permit vertical movement.
Pauls solution is a good way to go. You could use a truss clip. Check that the fastener wasnt over driven not allowing for movement as I usually see on the majority of clilps on new construction.