Water pressure test

Did a water pressure on line read 110 lbs, why would it be that high and what would your comments be?

We have a couple of neighborhoods here that has unusually high water pressure (in excess of 100 psi). Anything above 80 psi requires a pressure reducing valve be installed. Most water valves today on dishwashers, refrigerators, washing machines, toilet flush valves are made of plastic, however even copper can and will split under constant high pressure. A split supply in a slab (or inside a wall) is not a laughing matter. Have seen a few and it is a costly mess.


40-80 psi is operable range IMO, with 60 psi being ideal.

as mentioned, slab leaks suck, although they are likely caused by adverse soil/installation conditions along with pressure… but it’s gotta be pretty high.

Anyway, newer cross linked polyethylene systems don’t tolerate high PSI well, nor do your fill valves in toilets and many other plumbing fixtures…

If the pressure in your plumbing is high… something in your plumbing is gonna die :slight_smile:

Neighbor and I both had pb piping…water came from higher up on the hill. I had a regulator on the water line…One day I am outside and there is a Plumber fooling around with the regulator on the neighbors line… I asked did it fail, he said it never had one…10 years no troubles at all…lol

Water pressure was around 110 psig :shock:

Keep in mind that sometimes a faucet splits off prior to the reducer. I still write that up.

I had one at 140 once.

we are talking ;-)water not women Sean

So if the plumber was fooling around with the regulator yet it never had one…what goes here?

Once a pressure reducing valve is installed, an expansion tank should be installed at water heater.

Pressure reducing valves are one way and prevents pressure from water heating up to back up into supply line.

Results may be worse than not having a pressure reducing valve if an expansion tank is not installed.

Food for Thoughts,


Did your safe broke…:twisted: