Really Kevin?
You post a link from a Culligan dealer.
Where is the objectivity in that?
More Info
Read again Michael. It is not from a Culligan Dealer and I would think you would be well aware that anything new is almost crap or a copy of the original.
You didn’t give a source link of the article.
Oops!!! you are right Micheal I pasted the wrong one but still Culligan is on top and that Trojan Viqua doesn’t exist.
Here is the proper one.
http://watersoftenerpro.com/which-brand-of-water-softener-should-i-buy
Very sorry, our email is centurioninspector@hotmail.com
I sent the original post by phone. My bad. So, send again if you can and I will have a look.
Also, on this post I am hearing quite a bit of information, some good, some not so good. You can narrow this all down to three devices.
- Water Softener = “Removes” minerals that are disolved in water supply. (This is what you need.)
- Water Conditioner = “Conditions” water. (Pelican) This is a device that is supposed to “change” the electrical charge of the minerals in your water so they do not “stick” to the plumbing. After 12 years of being a plumber, I ALWAYS call bullcrap on these units. I have never seen one that works. Moreover, I can do math and like many of us on this forum, I have a basic understanding of chemistry and physics. This is a total line of crap. IMO.
- Water Filter = “Filters” suspended solids in the water. This would be like rocks, sediment, floating debris. This device should always be in place “before” a water softener or within the appliance itself as with the water boss units. However, outside of a charcoal filter, which only removes some of the chlorine, a filter CANNOT remove minerals or any substance which is disolved within the water molecules themselves.
My most popular unit that i sell is a water softener that does up to 30,000 grains of hardness and up to 1 ppm of iron. This is what i would recommend to Larry after reading his water report.
Thanks, Zeke, I sent the email again.
I appreciate the educational phone call, too, Jim…thanks.
That would not be too practical for showers, washes, plumbing fixtures,…
Great string lots of info and trading of Information …Thanks to all… Roy
Marcel I mean for drinking of course. LOL
My choice for whole house would be Culligan but only for the reasons of Showers, wash machines,sinks and tubs. I like the cleanest water possible for drinking.:mrgreen:
When I was a young guy I worked for a local premiere Well drilling operation and I did all the plumbing once inside the foundation.
1" ABS to Bladder Tank, plumbed in the
water heaters and we sold a ton of a dedicated
Iron removers and water softeners.
Back then an Ol Gal held the patent and lived up the road from me.
A Dr Patterson and her Iron removers were stellar.
How they worked was I’d install a solid block of machined brass called a micronizer in the well line before the Bladder tank.
It had a small tapered orifice inside a threaded body perpendicular to the path of water
flowing through the body .
This orifice was covered with a small polymer ball with a weighted spring pushing it to seal and was covered with a brass threaded cap which had the tiny hole.
A venturi in essence…
Also incorporated an adjustment screw that allowed me to meter the amount of
air it drew into the flow at the given pump cycle.
I would first test the GPM, then set the air to draw 30% of the pump cycle.
The air mixed in would oxidize the dissolved iron and cause it to separate from the water .
Next we had a single tank with a Autotrol head and a standard riser tube.
It would run the water now oxidized through a bed of what was very similar to cat litter
Pumice granules and trap all the iron.
It was then plumbed into a water softener.
Great system but as you can imagine the oxidized iron would quickly build in a few months to the internal plumbing between the micronizer, Bladder tank and inlet of the control head.
Water flow was compromised…
I don’t know if they even sell them anymore as I don’t seem to run across them anywhere during inspections, and I do alot .
As for me I’ve alway had a high dollar Kinetico dual tank and she kicks *** with green bags of Morton for iron.
I thought I’d let those interested know that we went with a Hague system: http://www.haguewater.com/
We had one about 20 years ago and I recently asked if it was still operating properly and it was.
We got a Hague Water Max AMQ, (I believe it was that model), so we can add a filter for sulfur in the future if we need. It also runs the water through the tank in reverse of most so the isn’t the salt bridging that can be common for many systems.
With our old one we used about a bag of salt every 1.5 to 2 months…so, I’m glad to have remembered it.
I wanted to thank everyone for their input on this subject, too.
We appreciated it and are very happy with our choice. 
I thought I’d let those interested know that we went with a Hague system: http://www.haguewater.com/
We had one about 20 years ago and I recently asked if it was still operating properly and it was. We have a friend that has the model we bught that has been running for 25-27 years.
We got a Hague Water Max AMQ, (I believe it was that model), so we can add a filter (if that’s what it is called) for sulfur in the future if we need. It also runs the water through the tank in reverse of most so there isn’t the salt bridging that can be common for many systems.
With our old one we used about a bag of salt every 1.5 to 2 months…so, I’m glad to have remembered it.
I wanted to thank everyone for their input on this subject, too.
We appreciated it and are very happy with our choice.
This is what we did, too. 