How do you report them???
What?..the first post?
Either, but yours is more pronounced!
When basements are excavated from crawlspaces they should be engineered…often a soil compaction test is needed and reinforcement for the new walls will be required.
A couple years ago I did one where the client wanted one for a private secured shelter.
It is important to preferably handle the moisture from getting into the building envelope or if that is unlikely how to deal with it to ensure it does not affect the interior foundation walls.
The picture that Larry shows is similar to what we did…we did water proof the interior walls prior to pouring a concrete slurry as shown in Larry’s picture.
Exactly…
The problem with most of these here that it has been done 50 years ago. Meaning the home is over 50 perhaps 100 years old . if you call out a engineer ever time you wouldn’t work here very long. I think Sean is asking is how would you handled it knowing the work has been done may years ago with no apparent adverse effect.
these foundations at the best need attention Mortar deteriorating is a big problem.
I report what i see, explain the loose mortar, dug out crawl space without support and evaluation and repairs should be done by a structural contractor
Every time i here the agent in the back ground explaining ( it has been here 100 years and nothing has happened) I return the favor by saying yes it has been here for 100 but what about the next 10 lol
Sean, from what I can see in that picture, all of the original lime mortar that was used is gone and at one time, the bricks were repointed and that is what is coming out now.
There is no way to make that wall right in that condition other than taking it down and rebuilding it.
Trying to stop any water from this brick wall is not going to happen.
Unfortunately, this wall has reached the end of it’s useful intended life.
New foundation is in the sunrise. 
Are you sure that is not structural brick.
I see plenty of moisture signs in the brick.
Good point about no footing. If there was it would be footers of granite under the piers, or what look like pier work for structural brick.
Look how the brick carry the ledger joist.
RECOMMEND a licensed engineer in century home evaluate the restoration of the foundation.
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Thats actually one of the chimneys, and yes I said they were toast 
Unfortunately thaere are a lot of old foundations that look like this as well. Most start at the bottom, but your right you will never stop the moisture from coming in.
Shotcrete is the only solution for old buildings and when mixed with fiberglass it is very strong.
Right now some is being used in bridge infrastructure so this should give you a heads up as to how strong it really is.
Actually you can, its just a matter of method employed and the price your willing to pay.
In our GC business, my business partner loves to work on older homes (his personal home is over 100 years old) and he uses various and often inexpensive methods to deal with moisture.
He starts with digging to the footing putting a french drain around those areas effected or in some case dig deep enough to install rubber membrane up the wall and out about 4 feet. He then properly grades the home, installs gutters with downspout extension at least 6 feet away from the foundation. He said on average that he spends less than $500.00 to deal with moisture problems being that many of them are limited to one or two sides due to the natural grade of the land around here.
Jeff
Jeffrey sub-drainage is needed from the photos I see. The footing exposed and drainage applied.
The cost is labor up here.
Its 3 weeks of work anyway with 3 men.
The masonry must be evaluated. Compression strength at the very lest.
Capillary movement has dissolved the masonry elements. Bedding and butt joints bond strength are marginal at best.
How many wythe thick are the walls?
Like I said…any foundation can be fixed including drainage…for a price.
Unfortunately with most people if it cost more than a 12 pack they don’t want to screw with it and are simply hoping and praying it will be someone elses headache.
I don’t see a basement. I see a raised foundation or crawl space that appears to have been altered to undermine the house footings (“footers” ;)).
IRC Definition
"BASEMENT. That portion of a building that is partly or completely
below grade (see “Story above grade”).
Defined as “that portion of a building which is partially
or totally below grade,” a basement is further identified
in the provisions in Section R202 for a “story above
grade.” Specific provisions, including the requirement
for emergency escape and rescue openings in Section
R310.1, are applicable for those floor levels meeting
the criteria for basements. The presence of occupiable
space below grade level causes various concerns that
are addressed by the code."
I recommend vapor retarders when there is excess moisture in the wood framing or signs of mold growth. Strangely enough, the only requirement in the IRC for a vapor retarder on the ground is:
- Below concrete slab floors that are part of the living space.
- In unvented crawl spaces.
- In crawl spaces with reduced venting (vent openings reduced to 1/1500 SF).
- In homes with wood foundations.
No where is there a provision taping the seams, except for taping it to the wall where its required to lap up the wall (unvented crawl spaces).