Would this fly?


This is a link to the UL database listing for the Mocket Power Gromett](“http://database.ul.com/cgi-bin/XYV/template/LISEXT/1FRAME/showpage.html?name=XBYS.E211536&ccnshorttitle=Relocatable+Power+Taps&objid=1075528546&cfgid=1073741824&version=versionless&parent_id=1073995503&sequence=1”)

Nope, doesn’t change a thing. The NEC required receptacle must still be present and within the dimensionally required area. A current tap, relocatable or otherwise, is not a receptacle.

I say again, using these gadgets is no different than plugging in an extension cord someplace and laying it on the counter and trying to call it your “required receptacle”. While it does provide a clean appearance, which is desirable to many designers, it does not meet the letter of the NEC for required receptacles along wall and backsplash spaces. If you want to add one as an optional receptacle, have at it.

If I wanted to use one of these for a clean appearance, and still wanted to satisfy the code, I would do this… Add the required receptacle upside-down, underneath the upper cabinet with either Plugmold or in a shallow Wiremold box. That would satisfy the NEC, and not be readily visible. Then, you may add the countertop poke-through power tap as your optional receptacle, which would in all likelihood by the one you use from day to day.

In fairness, I can see that some inspectors may buy into this type of current tap on counter spaces, as the required receptacle. I know that some in my area do permit it. That’s on them. The best thing I can do is relate what I believe to be legal, with the NEC code text and the UL General Guide information considered.

agreed…I do not find this unit in it’s present condition to comply with the NEC’s requirements. The fact it uses a cord would deem it an issue of not allowing extention cords as fixed wiring and a circuit that is clearly required…and not meeting the proper spacing requirements, Now if the unit is plugged into a standard receptacle on the counter…fine, if the standard plug is on the counter and one below the counter and this fits through a hole and plugs in below the counter…fine…but still is not part of the (2) 20A minimum requirement and spacing…

If you DO have the proper spacing and FIXED receptacle requirements met…as Marc says this can be added as a suppliment to the receptacle needs but not as to meet the requirements of 210.52©

Now…how can they fix that…create a direct wire unit with no cord and it is quite possible.

Indeed. I would welcome such an item. I know it would be a big hit with customers. Particularly if it could be fitted with regular receptacles and GFCI’s, for future repairability, just like concrete floor poke through fittings.

ironically…I dont see this model on their website…


No matter. There are a half-dozen nearly identical units on the market. I’ve only seen the one’s listed as a “current tap”. This is the first one that has the “relocatable” designation (which puzzles me, in light of the fact that it semi-permanently mounts), but that changes nothing with regard to the original query.

HON (the office furniture people) make another popular model. You’ll find it used in conference tables and similar furniture quite a bit.

Here we go…


oh my…I can think of some homes I have done that this would have come in handy in the office area…

We are currently considering a remodel which will remove a small half-wall which is behind a peninsula. Currently, all of the outlets on the peninsula are on this half wall. The new design would have one, continuous, flat peninsula instead of a two level one) bisected by a sink.

Of course, the issue would be where to move the existing outlets. I’ve read that there is a code that stipulates that you can have the outlets on the wall under the countertop overhang, but only if the overhang is less than 6 inches. While not perfect, this would seem to be the easiest/cheapest solution.

However, we are planning on having 8-10 inches. So here is the question: would it be acceptable to have the outlets on the wall under the overhang and then have 1.5" or 2" holes drilled through the granite (and capped with a plastic grommet) so that a cord could be run *through *the counter (as opposed to over and under)?