Good thinking…If it’s a load side panel, they should be separated and the grounded conductors isolated.
Is that foil flex really not approved for dryers? I thought it was only the plastic kind that couldn’t be used on dryers. Seems like that foil flex is all I ever see connecting the dryer to the pipe in the wall, in fact all my dryers are hooked up with it.
**M1501.1 General. **
**Dryer exhaust systems shall be independent of all other systems, shall convey the moisture to the outdoors and shall terminate on the outside of the building. **
*Exhaust ducts shall be constructed of minimum 0.016-inch-thick rigid metal, having smooth interior surfaces with joints running in the direction of air flow. Flexible transition ducts used to connect the dryer to the exhaust duct system shall be limited to single lengths, not to exceed 8 feet in length and shall be listed and labeled in accordance with UL 2158A. ***
So the flex is okay in the situations I described, as long as it does not exceed 8 feet. It seems like a piece of flex running from the dryer to the roof vent would also be acceptable under this rule as long as it is 8 feet or less. The roof vent pipe, no matter how short, would be the “duct system”. Does that make sense?
Sorry for the OT postings.
The only approved dryer vent pipe is rigid, galvanized pipe or corregated pipe.
The kind with the ‘slinky’ in it presents a non-smooth surface and can lead to lint fires.
Look at the box it came in. “Not approved for use with dryer vents”
No. It does not make sense.
I had a (small) fire in my house.
It was caused by such a dryer vent pipe.
“Smooth interior surface”, What part of this don’t you understand?
Lint fires (from clothes dryers) account for 49% of all residential home fires.
“Save your clients, save the world!”
Hope this helps; :mrgreen:
I am not trying to start an arguement here but I have a valid concern over the way I have been connecting dryers . If it is not safe I want to fix it. Each dryer is connected with one to three feet of aluminum flex to the hard pipe in the wall. It is the same stuff you describe with the slinky inside. Now I went out to the shed where there is a plastic bag containing “deflect-o” brand 4" flexible aluminum “air duct”. It does state on the bag “Not recomended for dryer venting”. It is 25 feet long. This is what I use for venting bathroon fans with 4" exhaust fittings.
Then there are some boxes from Ace Hardware that say “Flexible aluminum dryer vent duct” The stuff inside looks the same as the kind in the bag. The one in the box is made in the US, the bag comes from Canada. The box says "UL listed, but it doesn’t say for what it is listed. It is only five feet long. This is what I use for dryer venting transitions. Again, it it called “Dryer vent duct” on the box.
The corregated pipe you refer to, if it is what I am picturing, does not have a smooth interior surface. It is made up of aluminum in a spiral shape with grooves and ridges on the inside. It comes compressed and you stretch it out. The piece I have has no label.
So I guess the part I don’t understand is what I should actually be using for the transition. Is there a product that is flexible AND has a smooth interior surface?
Excuse me if I sound ignorant, I am just trying to learn. I am the type of person that insists on doing a job 100% correct.
One simple question generates a fountain of information. Where else except on the NACHI message board.
How did you make that determination?
That panel isn’t rated as service equipment, there is no service disconnect. . .
Oh, and this
10-4. I missed the condo statement.
Still don’t know how you determined the rating from the photos (I could not read any text on the labels).
I am quite familiar with Zinsco panel boards (if you weren’t already aware of that). I see this type often and it is not listed for outdoor use, nor is it listed for use as service equipment. I couldn’t actually read the label.
The use of plastic and “aluminum” flex ducting is common but not recommended by the MFG of the appliances. The best source of information on this is right in the manual the dryer came with.
I have seen a new concept with regards to flex ducting and dryers . The “claim” is these new designs are fire resistant and can be used for dryers.
Over 15,000 dryers fires a year (from the State farm Insurance) website.
Good points, Pat.
In our area, we have a two day, 12 hour course, state approved CE for home inspectors and given by the local gas company (People’s Energy). It is a great course and includes a lab (6 hours playing with and examining every type of gas fired appliance!).
THEY say that these types of dryer vent pipes are not approved for use. Can you say ‘lint fire’?
Good enough for me.
Do we, as Home Inspectors, with the lives and safety of our clients in our hands, want to put in writing (even bo omission!) that the plastic of foil type vent pipes are proper?
Hope this helps;
I sure don"t!!
Stock footage from my report…
Dryer exhaust ducts shall be independent of all other systems, shall convey the moisture to the outdoors, shall terminate on the outside of the building in accordance with the manufacturer’s installation instructions and shall be equipped with a back-draft damper.
Exhaust ducts shall be constructed of rigid metal ducts, having smooth interior surfaces with joints running in the direction of air flow. Screens shall not be installed at the duct termination. Exhaust ducts shall not be connected with sheet-metal screws or any means which extend into the duct. (Screens and screws can trap lint.)
**Exhaust duct terminations shall be in accordance with the dryer manufacturer’s instructions. **
…then I tell 'em what I found.
No problem with multiple grounds under one terminal or grounding and grounded conductors under same terminal? Where’s the bonding device?
You are getting this confused again…their is a difference between the Grounded and Grounding Conductors…the Grounded Conductor ( neutral ) is not supposed to share a termination with any other conductor…
bus bar, I meant bus bar.