Marcel, thanks and I will call it " A Little on The Residential Side of Things!
Good suggestion and I’m looking forward to posting this project, it involves as I said converting a ranch into a cape, 50 year old home. Some of the extras are installing the service cables underground, foundation drains as well as the second floor addition.
Stay tuned for more.
Little update to my Bookstore project.
Installing exterior drainage through a mine field of existing utilities.
Electrical, Mechanical Steam, Water, Sprinkler feeds from the Mother builing.
Interior electrical and plumbing rough-ins and look at all that stone backfill. I love that stone. ha. ha.
Marcel 
More on the bookstore project.
Shooting shear studs into beams.
Power Plant, 6 cyl. diesel generator putting out 1600 amps to weld these 3/4" electrodes.
Electrician cad welding the building ground for his future electrical panels.
Marcel
Interesting, very, very, interesting.
Is there any way short of digging up the tank for us to determine if it is protected? I’ve only seen one buried tank down here, they aren’t that popular, but it’s always good to know…
Brian, there is a way to check and that would be to open the dome cover of the buried propane tank and wires should be visable tied to the neck of the meter and gas neck. The gas company should check periodically to see if it is still active and works. Not quite sure what type of equipement is used.
Marcel
Thanks, very informative as usual 
Update on the Bookstore Project.
Today we pour concrete.
Nothing like using a pump truck to get conrete from point A to point B.
Today, we are using 4000 PSI concrete with no air and mid-range which is a water reducing agent allowing us to pour at a higher slump, which would be in this case, 5"-6". Specifications allow 4" maximum without this additive.
For slab on grade, I have already warned the A/E that they should have stayed with a 3000 PSI mix to prevent slab curling. Didn’t seem to bother them so I poured what they wanted.
In this photo, we are now saw cutting the control joints as detailed on the structural colums. The grid pattern of sawed control joints on slab on grade is usually 10’x 15’ max…
You can notice that there are no bondout boxes on the round columns. I convinced the structural engineer to remove them due to the problems it opens up in the future with slab curling in those areas. I kept them on the H columns as designed, due to the irregular corners that they have and can make the slab crack in an erratic fashion.
Later this afternoon, we wet down the slab and cover it up with a filter fabric designed for the curing process for seven days.
The moisture will enhance the hydration process and establish the compression strength design. This concrete will reach 4800PSI in seven days in lieu of 28 days. That is why I tried to change it to a 3000# mix.
Water and more water, after solidification of concrete, most important factor of all for compressive stregth.
Next part will address pouring a slab on decking.
Marcel
Marcel
Excellent, excellent, excellent series. Thank you for taking the time and effort of putting together a great thread for all of us to enjoy and to learn from. Speaking for myself, having several years in the business (PM for residential not commercial), I try to gain some benefit from seeing how others do similar tasks or the use of different products for similar tasks. We should all be greatfull to you for having the insight to start this thread, I know I am.
In the inspection business we’re seeing a finished product with problems but not to sure what’s causing the problem or how did it happen or what impact does it have. I think this type of series is beneficial to all of us, especially those never been in the business to see how it’s built, what’s behind those walls and how was it put together or how did it look before being buried or covered up. Again, thank you!
Talking with my brother Peter (and seeing what you did here) he thinks I should post a thread about the new development of multifamily 2 story townhomes the construction company I work for is starting.
I’ve always built new homes, modulars, manufactured and stick built…from starter homes to multi-million dollar. This will be a new venture for me, having never built multifamilies before.
If the members are interested in another construction series, I’d be happy to post some pictures during the construction process.
alan
I am all for it Allan, and believe it to be educational to all to share the slightly Commercial ha. ha. Residential and Commercial flavors all into one.
I don’t know about any other member interest, but I know I am.
Thank you
Marcel
Go for it Al, it’s all about the learning.
And thanks to Marcel too, his posts are always informative.
Thanks guys, I will.
I was thinking (that’s a bad habit of mine:mrgreen:), it may be good to hear from some of the other trades (plumbers, electricians, HVAC etc) who may be involved in an extensive remodel or new construction to post their pics here as well. I know in my job I always take 150 - 200 pics of the interior (some exterior) of a house after all the roughs are in, prior to insulating. I mainly focus on plumbing and electrical and always anything buried outside. Can’t tell you how many times we’ve had to refer back to the pics after sheetrock to either find something or look to see where something is or see how something went together.
alan
Can’t wait to see where your at with this project and I think that’s a great idea about plumbers and electricians posting as well. I for one would love to see some of the electrical guys post projects they work on.
Anxious to see the interaction, Peter.
Now let us continue the saga of the Bookstore project.
The second floor deck getting poured tomorrow.
The wire is down and supported on 2" chairs to maintain the wire at the top of the slab where it will be most affective. This is a 6" slab poured on a 20 gauge 3" composite deck. The welded shear studs are all in place and ready for the pour. Composite deck is designed for becoming a structural composite with the concrete slab. The shear studs on the beams actually turn the beams into T-beams once the concrete is set and cured, allowing the floor slab design to carry the dead load of the Books.
The wire mesh is for added strength and provide crack control, it is a 2.0 x 2.0 or what used to be a #8 6x6 wire reinforcement.
This is a portion of slab on grade that will provide a future corridor into the existing building later this year.
The vapor barrier used is 15 mils thick. The reinforcement wire for slab on grade design was a 2.4 or a #4 wire 6x6.
Meanwhile, the roof deck continues to be installed. This is a 2436 long span 3" x 18 gauge deck. Galvanized.
Marc:)
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Hi Marcel, looks good.
I have a quick question for you. I have a client that wants a roof top deck built over a rubber roof, has maybe a 1 pitch or less, new rubber. I know that they make brackets to secure the frame to the roof but doesn’t it have to be installed before the rubber goes down, and it is 30X40 and 1 block away from the Nubble Lighthouse.
One Nor’easter and that thing is gone.
What are your thoughts… Thanks
Cont’
For my Plumbing and Electrical friends.
Renovated upgrade in the existing building to supply the 20,000 square foot addittions and the existing 40,000 s.q. ft. partially renovated areas.
Heat exchanger, circulateing pumps for chilled water and hot water supply.
The electrical power supply, 2,000 amps 208/120 three phase with phase monitoring capacities.
Marcel
http://www.versico.com/documents/reslib/600559VersiGardAccessoriesJune2006.pdf
http://www.jm.com/roofing_systems/singleply/products/JMepdmWalkpadandPSrs8090v.pdf
These are only a few examples of what can be used under any deck framing to protect the membrane.
If anchoring and hold down is necessary, blocking would have to be installed under the rubber and anchor strap, or anchor support post with boot shown in the link to hold down the deck. Most likely, the deck weight is sufficient to stay put.
Hope this helps.
Marcel 
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Great info Marcel, thank you.
Well Peter, I guess I lucked out better than you did on the weather pouring my slab today on the second floor without a roof on. ha. ha.
Started at 6:30 and done pouring at 10:30.
66 yards and no wasted concrete. Nailed it right on the button.
Finished troweling at 7:30 tonight. Had to go and take down the machines with the forklift.
Beautiful weather day, but cool.
Tomorrow morning, we will cover it up with hydracure fabric for a seven day cure.
No saw cutting on this one due to the shear stud design and wire.
Curing will be of the upmost importance on a slab on deck to prevent cracking, but it will. Since a T-beam affect is created with the shear studs, it is well known for a slab to crack like 3 feet on each side of the beam. That is the T-beam affect.
Marcel
Marcel
A little while ago you and Pete where having a *curve *contest. Mind if I jump in with a few. Check these out. I was the PM, building a 5k sq. ft. indoor pool house. It took over a year to complete.
4 sets of barrel dormers on both sides of the building.
alan
