Understood. I’d put one in the back and front.
“3. Where fixtures come in contact with walls and floors, the contact area shall be water tight.”
The toilet seal will handle that.
Try setting a toilet on tile where the tile height varies. I haven’t seen a perfect tile job yet and than there’s those grout lines. Not watertight IMHO.
1 Like
Understood.
1 Like
My county uses the NSPC. Oddly the state uses the IRC, so I see it both ways. I would never call it out on a home inspection although I have had people ask me about it.
I never call it out on a home inspection. For me it’s a cosmetic choice.
In my neck of the woods, we caulk around the front of the toilet around to the hold-down bolts the back stays open, and if you have to shim the caulk hides the shims.
2 Likes
Caulk around and leave an inch or so gap at the back, so if there’s a leak with the wax seal, you’ll see signs of it. Sealing around helps keep the dribbles/misses/etc from getting in under the toilet where it can’t be sanitized. 
2 Likes
Every good plumber shims on tile🙂
2 Likes
My caulk has turned yellow & I don’t know why
1 Like
Lick test may be you answer… 
You probably used Phenoseal caulking it turns yellow over time and you pissed on it. 
Yellow caulk is an indicator of short horn affliction.
3 Likes
That, or a gnome not paying attention…
I have heard of this issue with different types and brands.
One solution would be to use bleach to whiten.
Let me know how it goes.
I agree…
Hittin’ the bong in the shower to much! 