That your truck in the driveway?
What do you carry to access a roof with? Drone only?
No offense, but… It seems to me you need to think through your processes if you expect to succeed in this industry. Even if you don’t get your feet physically on the roof, you still need to have better access to important information, or you’re gonna find yourself in a heep of trouble one day.
I am a bit confused. The first photo shows a course with possible excessive cover or lap. Not nailing strip exposure or insufficient lap. What is the concern again?
Thank you for the concern. I access roofs that my 16’ ladder reaches. I work well within the SOP on my inspections with the gear I use. We are not obligated to get on all roofs. So, I get on roofs that I can safely access and traverse. I also use a drone to get the photos that the citizens 4-pt inspection form requests, (Photos of all slopes). The drone is only one tool that I use to do my job.
This is the first time I have seen this condition so that is the reason for asking the question. Too much overlap can affect the high wind resistance of the shingle, less than 5-5/8" exposure. Using the other shingles overlap as a guide, I am seeing that the rows in question must have excessive overlap and this condition may affect the shingles ability to withstand high winds. If this isn’t a concern I guess my main question has been answered and I must have over stated the situation.
According to this training, it might be a concern. If the adhesive is on the face of the shingle, it may be prone to uplift. If it is on the underside of the shingle (along the leading edge), it is likely not a problem. It is hard to answer these questions with a visual inspection and without knowing the manufacturer.
In the past, most 3-tab shingles were “Imperial”-sized at 12 inches wide and 36 inches long with an exposure of 5 inches . Now, most 3-tab shingles, typically referred to as “metric” shingles, are larger. Metric shingle exposure is proportional to their larger size, commonly 5 5/8 inches.
What is the Correct 3-Tab and Architectural Shingle Exposure? - IKO.
Just a wild guess, but I look at that roof and notice that at the ridge, it is showing a nice consistent full exposure at the ridge line.
It was not uncommon practice in the roofing industry to measure to the ridge when halfway up the roof to check if you were going to end up with a full exposure tab and still running parallel to the ridge. If the dimension showed that you might end up with and over exposed shingle or to small, and adjustment of 1/8" +/- might be made to make it work right so as to eliminate and aesthetic defect.
What I see is the installer here took it all in one course to make it work, causing this cosmetic defect.
I’ve heard it more than once from roofers that would say “You can’t see it from the ground” and my response as the supervisor would be, "I see it and you will do it right.
Will this void the warranty? Probably not unless inspected by a manufacture’s representative.
Will it cause a leak? Unlikely
Will it cause a blow off? Unlikely
Does it look bad from the ground? No, you can’t see it.
So, what do you write about it? Nothing
Move on.
Composition shingles.
Poor Lateral alingment.
Exposure too short.
I carry 5 ladders in my truck and you can’t see any of them from the outside. They are all stored in the covered bed or in the cab. I can get on 99% of two-story roofs in my area. Just saying!
To answer your question, you need eyes and your tape measure on the roof. Measure the exposure, test the tabs to see if they are glued tight. Maybe the roofer used roof cement on the tabs in question and all is secure and tight. Maybe not. You need a 24 foot extension ladder. That will give you 20 feet, plenty for that roof. Look at the listing and bring the long ladder when you have a high roof. You need to disclaim the roof. You have no idea what the shingle exposure is. You have no idea if any shingles are loose. You are experiencing the limitations of a drone. That looks like a 5/12 or 6/12 roof, a walk on roof. Inspecting a roof by walking it is way faster than using a drone. If worried about slope, climb the hip and inspect from the ridge. Get a roof rack/bed rack on that truck that will carry a long ladder.
Yeah, I’ve seen your truck, and the difference here is you have a full size (real) truck/bed.
OP has a gimmicky ‘toy’ truck, (aka. try and impress the agents), which I bet won’t hold anything larger than 4-1/2 ft long! Look at the pic. The bed begins at the rear axle! What could he possibly carry besides an articulating ladder? No problem with that if it’s the extra long one, but then he runs the risk of scratching his baby.
It does seem like most people are giving up bed space for more cab space nowadays. I have a 6.5’ bed and even cuss at that short length now and again. What’s funny is that when you see an 8’ bed on a truck today, it seems crazy long, lol.
So true. When I bought my current truck, I had a hard time finding a single door cab with an 8’ box. I was a contractor too long, needing a full sized bed. They are way too tall now. Can’t access the bed from the side any more. Truck requirements for inspecting are not much different than building; especially ladder carrying capacity.
IMO the course of excessive overlap is not a problem and a cosmetic issue only.
If you have concerns I would recommend calling a manufacturer and run it by them.
I loathe these Sedan’s with open trunk lids.
Every contractor I see these days is hauling a trailer because his little pussy Sedan can’t hall a 6 foot ladder without it sticking out the back.
My truck had the snow plow front springs and extra helpers on the rear. This is 2 yards of QP. Overloaded a little, but it wasn’t on the stops and handled, and ran just fine from the stone yard.
It didn’t come with me to Florida as I didn’t need a big truck. I would be happy with one of those old little trucks with the 8 foot bed. Doesn’t exist any more, everything is these behemoth front grill monsters. By the way…they tend to kill pedestrians, no I’m not making that up.
Thanks Kevin, I do have an inquiry into a manufacturer. I thought I would reach out and see if anyone had some insight. I appreciate your input.
A lot of consternation over a minor issue IMHO.
I tip my hat to you. I carry one 17’ Little Giant. I have a 22’ Little Giant that I will sometimes throw in for an inspection, but I have a knack for taking it to inspections with a 23’ tall eave. I agree that if a roof can be accessed, it should be walked. You learn so much more on a roof than above a roof. This thread shows that.
At the risk of turning this into another ladder thread, lol, below are the 5 ladders normally in my truck.
The 2 in the back seat are my indoor ladders. I can get into 99.99% of attics and do just about anything else I need to do indoors with these 2 ladders. One is a stepstool and the other is a shorter Xtend and Climb. I can carry both of these and my tool bag into the house on one trip. I hate carrying big, heavy ladders into the house and I don’t like to bring in my roof ladder because it may have been sitting in the dirt and/or snow and/or mud.
In the bed are my 3 bigger ladders. The Xtend and Climb is my main roof and other outdoor stuff ladder. I have a large multi-position and a medium sized multi-position as well. These two rarely get used. Probably the biggest thing I need the large multi-position for is when I need a tall A-frame ladder, such as a tall garage ceiling with an attic hatch.
Well it is a laminate shingle, the seal strip is always on the underside of the shingle. 3-tabs had the seal strip on the top side in most cases.
this a architectural dimensional shingle I have and it clearly doesn’t have an adhesive strip at the leading edge. May be a manufacturing difference.
That’s typical.
I believe, in 45+ years of building/inspecting, that’s all I’ve ever seen.