Brick facing bowing out on front of house...

Originally Posted By: Bruce Johnson
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We own a 12 year old house, we actually purchased it about 3 years ago, and we just recently noticed the brick facing is bowing out about 4 inches, you can actually see behind the brick. The problem area is about 5 ft up from the ground and goes another 4 feet up and about 6 feet wide. We have a construction friend who said the celotex behind the brick facing became water logged and expanded, thus pushing the brick out. He thinks the water may have leaked behind the Celotex starting from the roof not being flashed correctly and settled at the problem area. Has anyone heard of this problem before? We might be able to replace just the problem area bricks without doing the whole front, but we need a place where we can purchase the facing brick that matches our house. It’s a common brick facing with a pinkish color…sorry for the long post…any help would be appreciated.


Originally Posted By: lkage
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It can be tough to match bricks but if they are not cracked, spalled or broken you may consider getting a concrete saw to cut the mortar off and reuse them for a small veneer job.



“I have never met a man so ignorant that I couldn’t learn something from him.”


Galileo Galilei

Originally Posted By: mcyr
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icon_smile.gif icon_smile.gif


Hi. Bruce;

I am trying to visualize your problem, and without pictures it is difficult.

Let me know if my understanding is correct.
The brick facade is bulging out at least 4". Is this every were throughout the facade? My understanding is that you have vaporseal or celitex board back-up behind the brick.
I am assuming that the brick facade is on the foundation, either on a brick shelf at 8" below the top of the foundation, or is directly on top of the wall.
I am assuming that there was at least a 1" airspace behind the brick and the structure.
I am assuming that the brick ties to the framing were installed at no more than 24" horizontal and 16" vertical or the other way around.
I am assuming that weep holes were provided to rid moisture accumulation behind the brick, at intervals of not less than two feet.

If any of the above assumptions, cannot be verified, you have a problem with the original installation of the house construction.

I can not give you anymore assistance on your problem without further information.

Be glad to help, if any of the above assumptions can be answered.

Feel free to ask. I am sure someone on the Board will help.

Marcel


Originally Posted By: Bruce Johnson
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Thanks for the quick replys:


Larry, that's the approach our contruction guy plans on taking, using a saw and cutting the mortar and pulling off the problem brick area...

Marcel, I'm not a home builder (Do I have to be an Certified Home Inspector to be a member of this board?) Anyway, I couldn't begin to answer any of your questions, but I can assure you there was a problem with the original installation of the house. I can mention that the plywood with the Tyvek wrap that the Celotex is attached to is fine, so it was jsut the Celotex expanding causing the problem. My wife just talked to a guy down the street that had the same problem, only the whole front/plywood was rotted behin the brick and he had the whole front replaced. He went after the builder, Town and Country Builders, and even took it to court and the Mayor, but no one did a thing about it...go figure. The neighbor behind me had the same problem about 4 years ago, so it definitley is a construction issue. There's only a few houses in our area with the same front brick design. I took some pictures, will install the Kodak software and upload an image when I get a chance. Thanks again!


Originally Posted By: mcyr
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icon_smile.gif icon_smile.gif


Hi. Bruce;


I honor your candice, and I believe that you are not required to be a NACHI Member to be on this board, but this is not up to me to dictate.

If it is a problem, in the future, do not hesitate to e-mail me direct, and I would be more than happy to help you out. I am on this board to help members as well as non-members.
It sounds like the town was infested with a Contractor that was not quite a full deck of cards. ha. ha.
I know this is no laughing matter, but a lot of these Contractors are kicking around making the fast buck and then disappearing to the next city.

One of these days, some control will be established to prevent this. hopefully.

By for now.

Marcel


Originally Posted By: escanlan
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Hi Bruce,


I have never heard of celotex acting in that fashion if getting wet if it was properly installed. If you have other confirmed cases of homes by this contractor then at this point there is no reason not to believe the waterlogged celotex caused this until the affected area is opened and checked.

Unless you are aware of the manufacturer of that celotex material you can try questioning the National Insulation Association to see if they have ever heard of this issue. Their WEB site is:

http://www.insulation.org/index.cfm

As for matching the brick, the undisputed largest manufacturer and supplier of brick is ACME Brick at http://www.brick.com/home-abc.htm . They may have an example of your brick in their online library. Short of ACME you can also possibly email The Brick Industry Association with your situation on brick replacement. With a picture and some information they may be able to identify the manufacturer and possibly a supplier. The BIA WEB site is http://www.bia.org/.

I am sure we will also have other members posting possible causes, solutions and/or sources of information and avenues of help. Please come back and keep us informed of what happens and ask as many questions as you have. We increase our knowledge by helping the public when and how we can and learning of these incidents by concerned homeowners such as yourself.


--
Manny (Emmanuel) Scanlan

Knowledge is power, but sharing knowledge brings peace!

Originally Posted By: dbowers
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Once you get the brick off you can take a brick or 2 to a brick distributor for color matching. Until you get the brick off and see whats behind it you’re wasting a lot of time speculating with us who have not seen it. Let a qualified brick contractor or mason solve your problems on site.


Originally Posted By: Bruce Johnson
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Sorry for the delay, been out of town…here are some images:





[ [b]Image:[/b] [url=http://www.nachi.org/bbsystem/usrimages/b/brick5.JPG]http://www.nachi.org/bbsystem/usrimages/b/brick5.JPG[/url] ][img]


[ [b]Image:[/b] [url=http://www.nachi.org/bbsystem/usrimages/b/brick7.JPG]http://www.nachi.org/bbsystem/usrimages/b/brick7.JPG[/url] ]


[ [b]Image:[/b] [url=http://www.nachi.org/bbsystem/usrimages/b/brick8.JPG]http://www.nachi.org/bbsystem/usrimages/b/brick8.JPG[/url] ]

Not sure if this worked or not, but we'll find out. Also, has anyone heard of the product Novabrik? It's a Mortarless brick siding system. The high-strength concrete bricks overlap and interlock to create a strong, water resistant brick veneer. The cost is basically the same as a good wood siding...just curious if anyone has heard of this product and some opinions!


Originally Posted By: Bruce Johnson
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I guess most of you already know, but you may have to copy and paste the URL into your web browser, or just click on the link below:


http://www.nachi.org/bbsystem/usrimages/b/brick5.JPG

http://www.nachi.org/bbsystem/usrimages/b/brick7.JPG

http://www.nachi.org/bbsystem/usrimages/b/brick8.JPG


Originally Posted By: escanlan
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Quote:
The unique, nonwoven-fiber structure of Tyvek? HomeWrap? resists air infiltration and water intrusion, yet is engineered to readily allow moisture vapor to diffuse through the sheet, helping prevent mold and mildew buildup and wood rot. The fibrous structure is engineered with microscopic pores that readily allow moisture vapor to evaporate but are so small that bulk water and air cannot penetrate. Siding, whether it?s vinyl, wood, stucco, brick, or composite, does not completely prevent air and water penetration. Tyvek? is designed as a secondary defense to help manage a home?s wall systems.


It appears that the backerboard for the TBV was laid directly on top of the Tyvek wrap. Not able to tell what type of backerboard they used. Tyvek is designed to breath but it appears the builder did not provide any way for moisture to escaped. It may have been prevented with one inch thick furring strips laid behind the backerboard. The backerboard then nailed to the strips and cut at the bottom enough to create weep holes when the TBV was installed.

Looks like moisture may have built up behind the TBV and saturated the sheathing (celotex?) behind the Tyvek wrap and the backerboard which is giving way.

Hope the links help. Let us know how the situation progresses.


--
Manny (Emmanuel) Scanlan

Knowledge is power, but sharing knowledge brings peace!

Originally Posted By: Bruce Johnson
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Thanks for the info Manny…I believe the plywood that the Tyvek is covering is still solid and not water damaged, like the two other houses in the neighborhood, and then Celotex was basically just stapled to the Tyvek/plywood with the brick glued to the Celotex. Somehow, perhaps water, the Celotex pulled away from the plywood. The contruction guy who is doing the work said it looks like something someone came up with at a bar writing the idea down on a cocktail napkin, as a way to save a ton of money!!! icon_sad.gif A definite half-arse operation…also, the other side of the front door is starting to break away and buckle as well, so we’re just going to have the whole front redone, either with wood siding or the Novabrik I mentioned earlier.


By the way, have you ever heard of Novabrik I mentioned in the previous post? Thanks again...


Originally Posted By: escanlan
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Hi Bruce,


Sorry for the delay. Been busy lately.

I have not heard of Novabrik until you mentioned it. Quite interesting material and concept. The aspect that would concern me is the amount of weight from replacing two stories of TBV. Each Novabrik is 4.3 Lbs. which can add up real quick!

If you are interested in Novabrik call them up and see if they will have a representative come out and look at your situation. Have them take measurements, check your existing structure and then have their engineers evaluate what it would take for you to use Novabrik. Get copies of their engineering calculations and estimations, etc. Then, as always, seek a second opinion about it. If you can afford it have a structural engineer look over Novabriks materials.

If you can not afford it take it to the local municipalities building permits and inspections department. It may require a permit for the work anyhow and some municipalities may require approval of the plan which means they may give it to their engineers to look over.

I am not endorsing Novabrik by this next statement. I find it interesting that the Texas Department Of Insurance has listed them as "acceptable for use in designated catastrophe areas along the Texas Gulf Coast". These areas are prone to hurricanes and other extreme conditions.

http://www.novabrik.com/pdf/technical_info/code_approval/TDI.pdf

Keep us up to date on the situation. It has been a learning experience!


--
Manny (Emmanuel) Scanlan

Knowledge is power, but sharing knowledge brings peace!