Code update: The door between the garage and the house interior must be “self-latching” in addition to self-closing.
The door between the attached garage and the inside of the home in this inspection picture is a major defect.
An attached garage door can open directly into a room of a house, but that room can not be used for sleeping purposes. Openings from the garage are permitted only into rooms that are not used for sleeping.
The door between the garage and house must be a solid wood door that is at least 1 and 3/8 inches (35 mm) thick, solid or honeycomb-core steel door at least 1 and 3/8 inches (35 mm) thick, or a 20-minute fire-rated door.
The door between the garage and the house interior must be self-latching and equipped with a self-closing or automatic-closing device. The device helps to limit the free flow of smoke, fire, and carbon monoxide into the living area. The door must latch shut behind you. Without self-latching, the purpose of self-closing is defeated. If the door does not latch in the closed position, it’s not properly secured. Latching also helps with air pressurization issues.
Refer to 2021 International Residential Code IRC, Section R302.5.1, which has been updated from the 2018 IRC.
its now 2026. I am hoping that I am correct that the code has not altered. I have tried researching this, and seen a red strike-through in the 2018 code r302.5.1 for self closing self latching
Its good to know code but keep it out of your HI reports. Missing or inoperable self-closing and self-latching mechanisms for the door between the garage and home is a safety hazard at any time. Report on that, not code. Code should not change your opinion on the defect in this case.
Florida took it (self closing garage doors) out several years ago.
Scuttlebutt was that a Congressman’s wife locked herself in the garage/out of the house so she “pursuaded” him to pass a new law removing the long standing requirement.
If the door doesn’t self-latch and stays ajar, that’s a CO and fire hazard. The fire door cannot perform its function if its open. That goes in my report 100% of the time and I don’t care what the requirement is. I’m not a code enforcement officer. I’m a home inspector.
I/We report on safety defects, not always what a Builder is or is not required to do. You are preparing this report for your client so that they are informed. That’s it.
I want to apologize. I’ve completed my 120 hours. Well complete 80 hours field inspections at ica in July. I’m not a personal/licensed inspector. I’m currently a field service inspector. A nice title to give folks that do not need education/training so that fills that want or need an inspection can get by without a professionals hard reports lol.
This was a new build supposed to be completed. Several defects, step cracking in foundation wall. Loose nuts on anchor bolts that protrude through foundation wall through sill plate. Then the self closing door from the garage.
I made sure to word it professionally in my report AFTER getting proper feedback. Without mentioning code.
I’m actually glad that you guys responded in this forum tbh because i was worried as all get out that i was wrong. But i know i seen it in lessons/quizzes/exams.
Some builders in this area have been verbally claiming for many years they’re not taking action on anything unless “it’s code”.
I’ve seen two builders recently that are putting it in their pre-close docs… “inspector must cite specific code requirement for any given issues” (I’m paraphrasing, but that’s the intent).
One went on with a statement that "we know many home inspectors are not comfortable with code requirements, you should ask your inspector about this before you hire them.
These are the same class that were blaming lack of GFCI protection (among a slew of other defects) on hurricanes…
“The outlet at the front porch is not GFCI protected”…
“Oh that was (Hurricane) Irma’s fault, were not fixing it”…
"Really? You’ve got an electrician named Irma?? You need to get her over her and fix the issue.
My parents recently updated their door between the home and garage. Dad was not very happy when the self-closure locked him out of the house a couple of weeks ago.
Some of them do.
I’ve even seen some deadbolts that lock automatically unless the owner disables/resets the device. I just take a couple pieces of blue tape when we find them now and tape up the bolt and/or the strike plate. Just have to remember to take it off before leaving.
When it relates to an exterior receptacle mounted through the vinyl siding should there be some type of flashing or sealant to prevent moisture intrusion? I’ve seen a lot of these boxes and I wonder how easy water can find its way behind the vinyl siding
There are some locksets that when locked, still operate from the interior. People locking themselves out is why MN did away with it, as far as I’ve heard. That, and it’s a pain in the ass always having the door trying to close on ya, lol.
We see a lot of folks change their door stop to one of those magnetic or mechanical “keeper” stops so they can bring in their groceries or whatever should they choose.
This issue in particular finds it’s way into and out of Code Cycles every few years.
WHY?
Because the NAHB and NAR can’t stop meddling in what they want to take control of !! They love to complain about how much more it will cost to build a home, and other stoopid shit like that. This was the reason why it took decades for “Fire Suppression Systems / Sprinklers” to make it into Code, and when it did, it was written to only be required in larger “rich people” homes. Originally, I think it began with homes over 4,400SF (not including attached garages).
I assume that since he is a “Field Services” Surveyor, (not typically considered an Inspector), that he is performing “Bank Draw Surveys”, operating under Third-Party, National “Risk Management” companies, in a Commercial Survey aspect of the Industry. This precludes them from Home Inspection Licensing laws.
