Resurrecting zombie threads
Well something strange is going on. My wife was at work and I was on the road to an inspection when this was posted. Nobody else was in the house. That is not my photo and have no idea where it came from.
So can you delete it …meaning able to edit post ?
Yes I was able to delete it. I tried to change my password and the system does not allow it. Same password I was given in 2005. Nick was going to change it for me but so far the message board is only accepting my old password.
I have this same problem on my garage door flashing, and recently dug out all the old caulking some previous person put there. I primed and painted flashing and siding where they meet, but the gap is uneven and at most 1/8” at largest in spots (siding sits directly on flashing in other spots), so the underside edge of siding is unprotected. Flashing is 90*, so water does sit between the flashing and underside of siding.
What was the definitive conclusion here, for this particular scenario caused by builders not leaving recommended 3/16” or larger gap? I’m gathering no caulking is the agreed recommendation, but it will undoubtedly cause the siding to rot over time. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Got news for ya… it’s gonna rot over time regardless what you do or don’t do, thus is the nature of organic products!
Note: even brick, stone, and concrete will deteriorate over time!!
That’s not only unhelpful, but also untrue. Proper maintenance of this wood composite siding will absolutely mitigate (and even avoid all together) rotting. You probably shouldn’t be giving anyone advice, or commenting, if this type of feedback is all you have to offer. Totally worthless feedback.
So let’s change the terminology to “premature” rotting. If there’s nothing I can do other than cut a wider gap because this area should definitely not be caulked, than forget it. If there’s anything else I can do (a sealer, or something), that’d be great to know. 
No you didn’t
3 Likes
If you were an actual member, I would suggest you post a photo of your concern, but as we all know… you’re NOT A MEMBER, and for that reason alone, many of us just DON’T CARE what you think!!
Also… any Inspector would know that this thread was began 14.5 years ago, and the OP is long ago RETIRED!
Wondering who the “Effing clown” is here? 
1 Like
Since this old thread has been bumped, why not include a couple of images from leading manufacturers of composite siding. I will also state, any cut edges should be primed and painted.
James Hardie cement fiber:
LP Smartside:
2 Likes
It will prolong the life of the product. And that is the best one can hope for.
However, JJ is absolutely correct. Nothing lasts forever.
If you caulk this joint, then any water that enters behind the cladding (which it certainly will) has no outlet from behind the drain plane. Potentially resulting in the deterioration of the sheathing behind the cladding.
In my opinion, replacing the 1st course over the window/door periodically due to clearance issues is much more attractive than having water trapped behind the cladding causing unseen damage.
The correct fix in my opinion:
Remove the 1st course of siding.
Adjust the z-flashing for positive slope.
Trim the siding for proper clearance and paint the cut edge.
Reinstall the trimmed and painted 1st course.