Flashing over garage door

Would you recommend the area along the flashing and wood comp siding too be caulked? Water is standing on the flashing.The water is in contact with the wood comp siding.


Would a picture help???


Is that Masonite siding?

Flashing if installed correctly should direct the water away from the structure.
“Flashing installed incorrectly. Further evaluation required.”

LP lap siding installation instructions call for a 3/16" gap between the bottom course and the flashing. If you caulk this area, you are trapping any moisture in back of the siding and failure will result.

Chances are when the Z flashing was installed, they installed it with a 90 degree angle at the wall / trim junction. That is what causes the moisture to sit there. Proper installation would have the flashing installed with a slope to drain the water away. See attachment.

I see siding installed tightly on top of the flashing. I see the gap caulked. Report what you see.

I agree. I think the gap between bottom of siding and flashing should not be flashed (to allow water out if behind the siding) but a bead of caulk along the trim , under the drip edge, would be good.

You no longer have to caulk the but joints of Hardie plank

Unless they are field cut.

My comment was a but, not a butt :wink:

I had to call Hardie and ask. I inspected new Construction and every home was not caulked. Always something new.

OK, Butt


Hi David,
It looks like Louisiana Pacific siding. It was involved in a large class action lawsuit since expired. The distinctive knothole pattern was the item used to identify it for the lawsuit. I still have some on my home in a couple of areas that I have slowly over the years replaced with Hardi. It is particleboard garbage, comes primed on the surface and completely exposed on the backside. Once it gets wet it becomes shredded wood chips, grows mold better than a pietri dish.

This flashing is not sloped to convey the water away from the siding. Water will sit there and rot the lower edge of this siding.

That’s what I thought.

I write this siding up as “High Maintenance Siding” and tell my clients to have it maintained annually.


No caulk should be used in the area, at all. A gap should have been left there.
As for butt joints, I’ve been using metal backers fro 12 years. Caulk won’t stay in Hardie and shouldn’t be used anywhere but at trim terminations.

For some reason, building has moved to ‘Tight is nice’ and everything is fitted too tightly in places that should have spacing.

You bet I would

Testing image upload feature.
home inspection class 22.jpg

Agreed. If you were in my market, I’d refer clients to you based on this post.